Greg_W

Uh, read the title of this thread. We left the parking lot AFTER WORK and summited at 10:30 PM. It was a beautiful starfilled night, for sure.

Don't hold your breath. Here's my conditions report: chilly, some sun, mud on trail

Anyone? Shoot me a pm or e-mail at nwalpineclimber@yahoo.com

DAMN!!! Now I'm really jonesing for some rock.

Good idea. I'll pretend to be Jim or JoshK, and drive up to Paradise in a Ford Excursion. I'm planning to arrive a few days early anyhow in order to acclimatize a little...so I'll do a couple of firewood carries to Muir, so we can build a roaring campfire. You'll recognize my disguise with the "I Halliburton" teeshirt. Nice. I'll be sponsored by Exxon Oil and Weyerhauser and the Tri-Lateral Commission.

Actually, the two big whippers I have taken were total surprises to me. that is because you are a cocky SOB and underestimated the area (for the one I know about) And I was out of shape...don't forget that.

Climbing on the Minuteman with Szykowski last fall, I got the pitch through some rotten shite in a sort of gully. Apparently it was the way to go. After traversing 30-40' from the belay, I started up, backed down, moved over, got a blue tcu (marginal), moved up, moved over, got a marginal nut and was rewarded with wonderful ropedrag. I finally committed to some face moves and pulling down on some rotten flakes that hung like the swords of Damocles above me. I made it to a tree stump and latched onto that thing like it was gonna disappear. I'm pretty sure one or both pieces would have ripped and I would have been looking at a nice, tumbling fall down the gully. I got to where I needed to set a belay and found blood where I don't even remember cutting myself. Phew I was glad when that pitch ended.

[quote you know when you are going to fall/learn Actually, the two big whippers I have taken were total surprises to me.

Are we discussing the same subject Muffy? That didn't make a drop of sense. -on the alpine thing...I see. yeah gotta get something in to keep you on the mtn if a hold breaks. My point was that if the piece wasn't good (i.e. it would rip) then it won't do you any good if you fall on it. I don't think many of us put in totally shitty pieces on an alpine route w/so many cracks and shit to sling around so it's a moot point i guess. Agree.

You're right, one is a form of masturbation and one is actual climbing. We're not talking about hangdogging up some climb, we're talking about whipping on gear.

What I was alluding to is, I would take a marginal pro placement on a not-so-difficult alpine climb where I would pass up the same placement on a harder crag route. My reasoning for this is that on most alpine routes I've done there is always a bit of choss or looseness; this increases the probability of a slip on easier ground. Sometimes it's just a mental thing to have one in, as well.

True, but all falls are not alike. I've placed shitty, desperation gear at the verge of falling and then taken short falls on them when I slipped or tired out. That's different than being above a tipped out #2 30' into some rotten funk. On alpine climbs, any gear is good gear.

People who climb hard. Whenever falling is a very real possibility, I consider that to be climbing hard. Yup, me too.

Thanks.

How soon do things start to dry out up there? My only experience with Squamish climbing is well into summer. Thanks.

Only way to feel truly alive!!! Man I love that feeling...especially once it's over and I lived.

Miracles are like talent -- you have to start off small before you can create a masterpiece.

You say that like you're surprised -- as if I never have a point? I hate to state the obvious, but it's usually the first thing overlooked ... Just mildly shocked we saw the same side of something. Climbing faster does minimize pain.

Wouldn't it be an ill-conceived plan from its inception?

Climb faster! Krueger's actually got a point here. When I'm resting on one jam and fiddling with gear or figuring out where to move next, that's when I feel the most pain. Also, I don't always slam all of my foot into the crack, just what needs it.

I compare everything to its comparative grade at Index. I consider those grades fairly right on.

I picked up a pair of the new Scarpa Marathons last year right before climbing Angel's Crest in Squamish. I wore them all day and loved them. I've climbed up to 5.10 cracks in them. I even don't mind the Scarpa rubber, but 5.10 rubber will make them better. They're slip lasted, but do have a slightly stiffer sole which helps when jamming. I agree with what others have said, as your technique improves your feet will hurt less. However, sometimes it will just fucking hurt.

I would echo Dru's sentiment that, yes, you can cover the range of six cams with only three, but then you only have three cams. Too many moving parts worry me. Also, the unit looks longer when retracted and thus may not be conducive to shallower cracks. Standard cams are time-tested, and are relatively simple mechanism. This looks to complex, not to mention heavy. Greg_W

A large Jiffy peanut butter top is just the right size for a fuel canister to sit inside of. A buddy and I have used that with a bit of water in it and set the whole canister/stove contraption inside it. It works pretty well. Like Fern said.

I've checked out the snow levels before, and they seem low. I know Mission gets less snow, but how much do you consider enough to be real good?