Greg_W

You're right, one is a form of masturbation and one is actual climbing. We're not talking about hangdogging up some climb, we're talking about whipping on gear.

What I was alluding to is, I would take a marginal pro placement on a not-so-difficult alpine climb where I would pass up the same placement on a harder crag route. My reasoning for this is that on most alpine routes I've done there is always a bit of choss or looseness; this increases the probability of a slip on easier ground. Sometimes it's just a mental thing to have one in, as well.

True, but all falls are not alike. I've placed shitty, desperation gear at the verge of falling and then taken short falls on them when I slipped or tired out. That's different than being above a tipped out #2 30' into some rotten funk. On alpine climbs, any gear is good gear.

People who climb hard. Whenever falling is a very real possibility, I consider that to be climbing hard. Yup, me too.

Thanks.

How soon do things start to dry out up there? My only experience with Squamish climbing is well into summer. Thanks.

Only way to feel truly alive!!! Man I love that feeling...especially once it's over and I lived.

Miracles are like talent -- you have to start off small before you can create a masterpiece.

You say that like you're surprised -- as if I never have a point? I hate to state the obvious, but it's usually the first thing overlooked ... Just mildly shocked we saw the same side of something. Climbing faster does minimize pain.

Wouldn't it be an ill-conceived plan from its inception?

Climb faster! Krueger's actually got a point here. When I'm resting on one jam and fiddling with gear or figuring out where to move next, that's when I feel the most pain. Also, I don't always slam all of my foot into the crack, just what needs it.

I compare everything to its comparative grade at Index. I consider those grades fairly right on.

I picked up a pair of the new Scarpa Marathons last year right before climbing Angel's Crest in Squamish. I wore them all day and loved them. I've climbed up to 5.10 cracks in them. I even don't mind the Scarpa rubber, but 5.10 rubber will make them better. They're slip lasted, but do have a slightly stiffer sole which helps when jamming. I agree with what others have said, as your technique improves your feet will hurt less. However, sometimes it will just fucking hurt.

I would echo Dru's sentiment that, yes, you can cover the range of six cams with only three, but then you only have three cams. Too many moving parts worry me. Also, the unit looks longer when retracted and thus may not be conducive to shallower cracks. Standard cams are time-tested, and are relatively simple mechanism. This looks to complex, not to mention heavy. Greg_W

A large Jiffy peanut butter top is just the right size for a fuel canister to sit inside of. A buddy and I have used that with a bit of water in it and set the whole canister/stove contraption inside it. It works pretty well. Like Fern said.

I've checked out the snow levels before, and they seem low. I know Mission gets less snow, but how much do you consider enough to be real good?

Not having a map in front of me, I recall that we left out of camp heading climber's right for a few minutes and then turned up. After that, we headed left below the black pyramid (or whatever it's called) onto the NE face up to the 'schrund.

A little chilly this time of year, though. I recall that it was breazy when we were there last.

I like these ideas. I think I'd be more keen to show if slides were going to be shown on occasion, like at Shultzy's a few months back. The BBQ's were a success, I think. The same ol', same ol' gets a little stale; mixing it up would be nice. Greg_W

Squirrels are the lookouts of the forest. Other animals depend on their warnings to clue them in to human intrusion. We have this discussion every hunting season.

telemarker, Alpha rock is close to the road; what about higher up? What were the temps like?

That's a cool story. After climbing the route last year, it's neat to read about the conditions 50 years ago.

This is great news! I'm about the same size and am seriously contemplating the Dynafit system ("contemplating" = finding the cash).

there is a good nut placement about 5ft off the ground on the first double crack at the collums...but nothing is fixed there, becuase no one is stupid enough to leave gear for booty you can put a small cam there too... maybe a red alien, I can't recall exactly I gotta wonder why you would want gear 5' off the ground.

Teabag, baby.