bigwalling

clean is not fun... unless it is hooking

is that a bolt in that pic??? below your circle? i think it is but it is kinda hard to tell.

ya, it is a bit of both Spanker.

actully the point it to feel close to death/life and beat all feelings away.

bliar williams (?) did something on the NNB of Index. Probably pretty hard not sure how deadly. No, A5 in wash... and it would probably be hard to find one! So much has to come togather right for a nw A5... all natural all death. Dru, i think chris is the only repeater of Skullfuck at least that is what he thinks. That route looks simply rad for sure. First pitch is expando and bad fall... proabably would live if you fell off the forth. Ya, matts hooking pitch sounds spooky... jens are you looking to climb the hardest/dangerousest? Let me know if you want to do anything hard.

I don't know... good question. It would have to be pretty hard climbing! I would think hooking or expando. Thin seams mean gear can be equalized and nest built. Son of Pan... i doubt it! That wall looks pretty steep! WHo has backed off Matt and Luc??? Chris and Sean are way solid hard aid climbers in squamish. I would think Skullfuck is hardest in Squamish. Index, well V420 is only real canidate for it i think. I have rapped past it several times... 3rd pitch looks hard and i'm not sure where mike really went. The first 2 look thin but at least it is fairly obvious looking. Linking 2 and 3 would be sick i think. Someone should do it! Here is the problem as i see it. In washington how many guys are doing new aid routes around here? I don't think many. Likely Dangerous Routes at Index: V420 Mystery Route Chicken Mcnugetts(maybe) Artifice(doesn't look bad tho) Dragon Tail Satanic Exile

i will be there all summer... this is the last thing i want to do! I will fuck my liver up while hooking instead.

ya, it goes clean no problem! There was a screw driver at the top of first pitch last weekend. I think... i have yet to find it in my stuff so maybe i was just too fucked up.

you can climb el cap... even if you havne't done a wall. Trust me!

i was on my way out there after school... but forgot a collet for my drill... so i went hiking to baring mountain.

Wow... i'm totally out for this shit! Wear a helmet wtf?!?! I don't wear one these days. Aid is so much better with booze. This guy is light!

i failed my first belay test years ago... i belayed like an aider.

dru... you mean you are really going to go and read that shit???

fuck that would be way fucked if true... but anything is possbile. My yellow alein got fucked up in a dasiy fall... it bent the metal part right below the top weld thing. I bent it back to make it work and bought another one. But it fully breaking... that seems unlikely.

nope not me... dragon is likely slimey as fuck on 2nd pitch.

or take a 50 footer and almost deck... no it is good climb, i just think the others are better! Ya it is good on cam hooks... Good 3 easy ones are, Iron Horse, Stern Farmer and City Park. That is a good learning day for sure. My learning circut was always had Iron Horse in it.

City Park is the least fun of all those.

was there to day bitch

that guide will work if it is the Cummins one

If you don't have brass nuts... some stuff will maybe not even be possible. I'm not sure tho. City Park is the worst of them all IMHO. High on the list is the Narrow Arrow route mentioned above. Here is a list of good ones. -Iron Horse ok -Arachnid Arch ok -10% ok -Stern Farmer good -City Park kinda lame -Narrow Arrow variation good! -Narrow Arrow Direct ok -Shirley good!

arch... do you mean south seas???

fuck that shit... chuck is nice and all but fuck

I use a single yates ladder which is clipped to a bent gate petzl spirit as is the daisy(regular style). I test a lot of times on the daisy. Offset... that isn't really a problem. I sometimes clip the second aider to the peice but a lot of the time I just stand in one. Adjustable aiders make no sense for real aid climbing, you have to climb up and down the aiders sometimes to test the gear, I don't see how adjustables would be faster. Please show me guys doing hard routes with these. I think you will be hard pressed to find anyone. With the yates you don't even have to look at your feet a lot of the time. Here is a picture of Ammon useing the same system... he is where i got the idea from.

I use 2 yates ladders on everything I do. I hate adjustable daisys too. So naturally I will never touch these adjustable aiders and will continue to think they are retarded. I've met a fair number of "good" aiders and they all seem to think they are a joke. How would this happen??? I always have the daisy attached to the biner. I don't know any really fast aid climbers using them. But whatever works for ya.

If any one wants a one way trip to the valley around june 10th i will be heading down.