bigwalling

Yeh, 3rd person can be a bit tricky.... If you guys want to aid some stuff out at Index let me know, I'm always looking for people to aid with around here.

Hmm, 3rd person is pretty simple if you do it right, but that said it sucks if you don't short fix. Also, glad to see you did clip cleaning, I've seen so many people out aiding that don't do it and struggle greatly. I'd reccomend you check out Index for aiding. Here are my recomendations: Lower Wall -Narrow Arrow Roof thingy, start on the direct and join the overhang route -Shirley Upper Wall -Green Dragon -Town Crier

I've used those a bit, I wouldn't bring that on a big wall but for hiking it's got to be one of the best options out there. Space saver and fuck... lightest stove ever! Oh not to mention cheap. Most hardcore light backpackers I've ran into seem to be stoked on the whole idea too.

Do you happen to be the guy that put up Sunshine Breakfast or something like that? The topo style is very familier, I did that route right after you finished it... fun but a little dirty. I wonder if it's cleaned up with traffic?

that sucks, I've always felt pretty safe from that stuff up till now. Story about meth heads in Index I wake up one morning to the sound of a car horn and a guy screaming if anybody was around, turns out me and my buddy(von spanker) had left the doors open on the truck cause we were all fucked up. He told us a meth head came into the General Store all freaked our cause he thought someone had gotten killed or something.

Here is another option I think? These would surely climb nice! Looks like Boreal has a similer product. But seems like both the sportiva model and boreal model are only avalible in Europe.

Northern Fjords, more unclimbed rock up there. Plus my buddy has already climbed up there and that is where he wants to go.

Ya, Brad and Chris got trenchfoot up there too. Trenchfoot looks like pure hell!

Wondering which is a warmer boot, what rock climbs better, opinions please... I'm planning on useing them on bigwalls in Baffin, so I'll be standing in aiders most the time but if I can sorta free climb in them. I already own a pair of Trango Extremes but need a warmer boot for my trip also. Thanks!

No, I think Mike freed the Direct at like 12b a while ago. I know it has been freed since the guide came out.

Info here: http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/index.htm

HAHAHAHAHA... he told me about his dad quite a bit. I guess his dad is terrible to climb with. He told me he would never climb with his dad again! He also said that most people climb with his dad once(if they haven't heard the rumors yet) and then never climb with him again. Probably his dads fault. They also epiced on East Butress El Cap I think one year... something like starting at dark...

About our time on the route... My partner and I aren't slow aiders, shit he holds a speed solo record on El Cap. Well I take that back, I am slow but can go fast if I want. I can't believe he bivied on that route! HAHAHAHA.

Shirely is a really good clean aid route. Lots of fun and a cool crack.

just saw bobs comment... I dare you to free the 5th pitch! I don't think it is even possible, it is vertical and is mostly beaks and heads with some small cams hear and there. 11th would go free for sure, 2nd would be at least 5.12 R we freed a bunch of it but not the hard parts. 3rd, I think it would go free, it ends with free moves. If someone wants to look into free climbing the wall, I would take, the first pitch of the Edwards/Jessup route(11+), then climb our 2 pitches, this will bring you to a big corner system, go up it and continue on natural features for as long as possible. Some guys tried the face in the winter and did a bunch of the natural system I speak of, it is marked wrong in the book but just follow the big systems and I bet you could free a new route up the wall. I would think in the end it would be pretty hard 12+/13 realm and quite runout but who knows. Bring a nut tool to clean placements!!!! Good luck. Red is us, Yellow is where I think free route could go.

ya I saw that thing on climbing.com, looked cool. Was it way runout? Fuckers on st.com are confused by us giving it 5th for free climbing. Well at least lambone is... HAHAHAHA!!!!!!!

the granite is pretty good, but there is a layer of junk over the whole wall. All cams must be bounced tested cause most pop the first time. You never know how good a perfect looking alien really is... unless it's yosemite! That said the rock at the very base is the shit! it has been weathered by the glacier and is perfect.

F.A. Alik Berg and Jake Hector Aug/Sept 2005 We put up a new route on the South Face of Snowpatch Spire in the Bugaboos, the route is about 1800ft long and has fairly technical but mostly safe climbing. In Yosemite I would rate the route new wave A3. Most pitches took 6-8 hours to lead due to the complex placements. This is the first climb I have done that Hybrid Aliens are MANDATORY! I think drilling will be required if you don't have them on the 2nd ascent. The route took us 18 days total to establish, 14 of those days were spent climbing capsual style on the face. It should also be noted that out of 14 days only 3.5 of those days were in nice weather. Every other day had snow or sleet flying from the sky. Wind was pretty extreme at times and would shake the ledge and blow the fly so hard it was hard to get any sleep at time. The tempeture was also surprisingly cold, we weren't able to start climbing early(not that we wanted to!) due to the ropes freezing nightly. On day 7 we ran out of liquor and on day 9 we realized we would be eating mashed potatos pretty much for the rest of the climb and till we were able to make it to the Kain Hut to raid the free food. It just so happened to work out that Alik always led the pitch in which we would establish the next hanging camp at. So I was always forced to just hang in the storm and freeze while Alik led his pitch. He got to belay out of the shelter of the portaledge while in a sleeping bag. Also of note is that I developed minor frostbite partly due to this. I am eagly looking forward to my feet healing and my next wall. Alpine big walls bring a lot more satisfaction than the walls in yosemite. The views blow the valley away!

Thanks guys! I went to a doc today and found out that it is a minor case of frostbite. He said that all my major circulation in my feet is fine and that it was some of the more minor areas blood flows that were affected. What sucks is I will have pain for 4-6 months and will be more likely to get frostbite in the future. Lessons learned... the Bugaboos are more extreme than I thought and yosmeite footware and socks is not acceptable! Also if you do cold weather big walls... be sure to bring a belay seat so you can keep circulation flowing. This is what fucked me the most.

ins't that picture Kieths Crack???

It's not a troll, if it turns out to be frostbite, it is the very early stage. I'm hoping it is nothing but, I'm goin to see someone. I have swelling, but no blisters. Ivan, I don't just run out and see doctors if I can avoid it. I haven't even been in the states till today. My moms friend just called and gave me a doctors name that I will go and see tomorrow. Also, most of you have probably spent more time hiking hills than me. Have you ever had really painful feet and figured it was caused by your toes slamming into the front of your boots?

On a recent trip to the Bugaboos I developed a foot problem. I spent 14 days on a wall and my boots and socks were less than adiquate! My feet were totally numb and still are, they also felt quite hot to the touch. Right now, several days later they are in massive pain. As in I can't sleep and have puked due to the pain. Just looking for some help. I know nothing on this subject but please ask questions to help me be more detailed. Also anyone know a good doctor to go and see for something like this? I'll post a trip report later too... lots of pics!

Well if these guys are so rad because they chip and bolt existing climbs then cool I chip head placements and enchant hooks. Rudy, don't get me wrong I love bolts! I own a power drill and a couple hand drills. I just don't like added bolts. I'm not the one who plans on ever chopping them. My buddy what done Show White on aid before and the came to do it another day and found that a bunch of it had been bolted. It sucks to have a climb you enjoy bolted.

Sea of Dreams, I honestly don't really have a big desire to climb it. It has seen lots of traffic and added holes. Plastic Surgery Disaster has seen 8 ascents(including ours), the Sea has seen a shit load. Classic line but I have enough other things I want to do that I may never get to the Sea. Here is a funny story though, Eric Kolh(FA PSD) told me that Bridwell drilled on Plastic... when he repeated it. We found the exact bat hook he drilled and made it unuseable. My partner bypassed it with a head and a beak.

HAHAHA... no that was my first aid climb ever. If you haven't done it, you should do the Narrow Arrow Overhang but start up the Direct and go under that roof. It is really cool. Shirley is also a really good one to aid up.