ivan

sorry, wrecked me ankle in a classic north cascades slogfest and can barely hobble into the shitter right now...might come out drinking though if the place is named.

i thought the direct line was sweet...the 2 pitons at the crux were amusing, mostly because 1's ripped out but still attached to the other, which therefore hardly seems reliable. the lack of a proper anchor at the top of the 60 meters is a definite negative though.

christ, inflation is hitting everywhere!

fahqn englishman!

going up to the n cascades for a few days but if i'm back in time i'll be there

moon rise over the glacier is sweet!

#3 camalot is barely big enough to deal w/ the offwidth gendarme pitch, but will suffice. a 3.5 would be better.

mike, yer a fat bi-yatch and all the climbing in the world won't make up for your destructive-attachment to hohos and krispy kreme!

doesn't that sound like there was no anchor at all then? otherwise anchor components should be attached to the belayer, right?

did they have a stated route in mind?

said list will not include cooper's spur the sunshine route on the north side lasts longer than the south side route and is far more aesthetic anyhow w/ its wilder ambience

how can i work on my porch (actually reflooringa living room the cat pissed all over) when i'm on the internet all the damn time? i'm planning on taking a friend up the sunshine route next week and camping round snowdome...if you wanna come along we can play on the elliot on the first day.

yup, saw the same shit at smiff this spring...a horde of fahqers toproping the entire spiderman route w/ a host of pissed off folks sitting 'round the base sharpening their knives.

why not say Damn the Man, not bolt anything on the south side, and grid bolt the wilderness of the north side? jim seemed to have a great opinion on that...maybe he could do all the hard work. seriously, bill, i think rebolting your route is a capital idea

nice bill, looks like you're drinking espresso in the evening these days!

Climb: Mt. Washington-West Ridge Date of Climb: 7/25/2004 Trip Report: rbw1966 and i, accompanied by his faithful wife n' dog, made the leisurely stroll up the pct to the base of washington y-day morning. after an annoying scree traverse and a bit of a steep bushwack uphill, we arrived at the w ridge amidst a million shards of broken mountain. we climbed from the lowest portion of the west ridge, only to discover after the first full pitch (no pro available) that we could have walked around the ridge and skipped the first portion and started strait into the 5.8 pitch. rob lead the 5.8 bit, which has a fixed pin at the crux, and appeared to enjoy it immeasurably. the rock quality was good enough here. the next pitch is interesting, w/ tons of rotten plates, but the occasional good foothold pokes through. the 5.6 pitch was long and fun, with a couple of variations possible to keep it entertaining (2 fixed pins here too). we pitched out the 2 technical pitches and simuled everything else. ran into a swarm of mazamas at the summit and followed their fixed line down to the rap station (1 60 meter roped enough to reach the bottom). lots of environmentally sensitive scree sliding lead us back to the fam and after a long hot walk we arrived back at the cars we'd left 8 hours earlier. overall, a fun enough mountain, but i'd never bother with it if i was cool and lived in northern washington. a great way to escape the heat of portland and a good person to climb with and randomly scream the muthafucka word at. Gear Notes: 6 slings handful of nuts and hexes, mostly smalls used 60 meter half rope Approach Notes: easy and flat, but no water. don't take the wrong turn and end up at patjens lake.

thanks for the alternative site bill and mark, and i had no intention of nailing anything at beacon if i could manage it any other way. i'm not planning on hammering anything into the sacred walls of beacon, but found it amusing that jim, who seems to revere the place beyond all others, could care less on the subject. all this said, as i'm not now nor shall i ever be a free-climbing god, i soundly blow my nose in the general direction of everyone who tells me i can't nail something that's been nailed in the past just because they're better climbers than me. i've dug everyone i've run into in the portland cragg'n scene and am hardly trying to make enemies.

no doubt the ten years iain has on you accounts for him exceeding your post count by several factors of ten

bill, he didn't say whose bolt's they were, but made it sound like it was a long time ago. i did see at least 1 shiny newish bolt about 20 feet above the ledge though, so perhaps more were added afterwards? looks downright hard to go strait up from there, specially after taking advantage of the party ledge's recreational opportunities.

oh yeah! shit, how time flies...

josh, my man, the supplies you need to carry to make the best of your stormy mondays don't add but a 1/4 ounce or so to your hardman, light'n'fast teknek pack! the alphabet game is lite too.

no we finished from jim's secret party ledge (enjoyed stories of bolt chopping war when someone dared to put a route through land) by traversing right a bit, downclimbing a bit, doing some 5.fun climbing up and right, then cutting back left through 4th class brush to that section of old railing. i think that's different from how tim depicts the standard se corner. jim's a riot w/ his views on tim. said ya'll two had a bit of fun f'cking w/ tim about first ascents and shall we say questionable beta. made much mock miscontent when i showed him his young warriors route is in the guide (though he was very pleased to see no topo nor description of the route in it). we talked a good deal bout that route though, as layton and i went haywire on it last fall, though after conversing w/ jim that made it sound more like we did it just right. agree w/ the heart'a'gold. i can never fault a man who loves climbing and loves the , even if he's older'n dirt and sounds like a 1-man anti-smoking commercial. his geniune antipathy for all things related to technology (i think he views the internet w/ a great deal of suspicision) is refreshing to the extreme. regarding nailing, he gave me n' coylec carte blank to bang the shit outta his old routes, such as dirty double overhang and that really cool one off to the left. really encouraged us to say The Man.

was out there the day after it opened and also saw little traffic. intended to aid dirty double overhang w/ coylec but ended up to the right. the top of the two routes is extremely overgrown and the aid options very meager and scary. met and climbed the se corner w/ the ultra-guru hippie-dude jim opdyke (sp?) (think he gives you a run fir yer money there, bill, yoda-wise...he said to say howdy)...talk of cia conspiracies, severe misgivings regarding The Man...good times on the secret party ledge. the corner rocks...saw tex's dead bird but i think it was a gull that had been devoured by the falcons. didn't notice any sort of major rockfall on the south side of the rock...blackberries are ripe in sections and make an excellent mid-pitch snack! enjoyed jim's variation for the top 3 pitches of the corner.

i didn't see anyone downclimbing the gully rock, but it was clear. i've gone that route, simul-climbing before and found it most annoying, but still probably the best way off.