ivan

this certainly doesn't bode well for this weekend

ah, you sad bastards, i'm afraid you're too late! after showing extreme alpine ingeniuty, having dropped the coathanger i was going to use as my second nut tool but improvising by using a shoelace from my climbing shoe, i retrieved the recalcitrant .3 black diamond cam from the bizarre placement just 40 yards shy of the railing on the trail from the party ledge finish to the se corner. let's play this game next week too. how 'bout somebody lose an orange alien up there? the .3 is the same size as my green alien!

shouldn't someone be shitting in their pants right now about how the volcano is actually erupting? look's pretty wimpy though...

VERTICAL LIMIT!!! circa 1972

whilst out climbing the se corner at beacon today, i encountered a lovely, new black diamond cam (smaller than .5, blue sling). regretably i was soloing the route, so had no gear w/ me to extract the cam (whoever placed it buried it so deep the triggers are inaccesible w/o a nut tool...i tried improvising w/ a couple of stick w/o success). frustrated, i vowed to return friday w/ the proper tools. on the way home, i decided to make a fun challenge of it. the race is on: who can beat me there to grab the booty? the exact location will of course remain a mystery, and oh yeah, i camoflauged the crack extensively w/ grass. see ya'll out there

dude, haven't you been following all this cali earthquake and st. helens eruption shite? plate tectonics, goddammit...spiderman's been unlifted a full 40 meters! this will defeat the gang of folks i once saw toproping all of spidey by tying 2 60s together...

not true! if sitting (i was at the belay) you can just wiggle yer ass cheeks a bunch and do some tantric chants and its just crawls right on back up kinda tickles though

nah, 2/5 load at max on the climb...it was too short to crap myself completly. the belay ontop, on the other hand, was more like 2/3 load.

yeah, get someone who has a laptop w/ card to come chill in yer backyard (i'm available for a mere beer or two)

i wouldn't have half as many posts as i do if it weren't for most of my neighbors having wifi not that i'm a remotely moral person, but should i feel morally revolted coasting on other's signal?

these good folk don't take well to directions man (that n' there lazy as hell)

mmmmm, Coconut Slurpee

adventures in choss land!

looked cool, but we saw some big stuff rolling down all over the face. climbing the n face couliors would very likely have resulted in a sudden facial reconstruction. figured those had to be classes...reminded me of the matanuska glacier in alaska

Climb: Mt. Hood-Coconut Slurpee Date of Climb: 9/26/2004 Trip Report: So clearly this route must have been climbed before but I’m too damn tired to find out what it’s called. Rob (Hanger) and I decided to call it Coconut Slurpee, after the picket swallowing crap that laughingly made up the first belay. Feel free to tell me whatever it’s really named. A hundred cars in the cloud cap lot at 3 AM…hmm, this is not a day for fucking around in the icefall w/ the Mongolian hordes. Rob and I hoped to find something distracting in the vicinity of the north face. I reckoned it was going to be way too hot to make anything ‘round there practical or safe, but a brother can always hope, right? Turns out there was plenty of crap raining down all the gullies and most of the nascent seeps below the Cooper spur, but one sweet looking route looked mostly complete and free of mortar fire. The route ended up as one full 60 meter pitch, but too bad, you can’t go and climb it now as we destroyed all of the ice in climbing it. Well, maybe it’ll get cold…I hear winter’s coming. Bottom anchor was horseshit. First screw seemed more likely to get me killed then save me; while the ice was very solid, it wasn’t really attached to anything and I figured if the column broke off, the screw would stay in and just drag me down w/ 300 pounds worth of fuck-water. About 15 feet of vertical ice, mostly not even remotely solid, then easing to easy ice/styrofoam snow, then a terrifying 30 feet of 75-85 degree ice, frequently hollow and unsupportive, much of which was surmounted by stemming out onto the volcanic mud which tightly constricts the ice. Enjoyable sketchy anchor uptop in shallow Styrofoam, waiting to get yanked face-first down the route if rob lunched badly. Pretty quick climb up and traverse back over to the spur. Chatted w/ a man at the end of the spur trail, complete w/ 12 gauge shotgun. Laughed to see at least 50 people spread out down below on the elliot, like flies on shit. Awesome day. There’s something really cool about ending the day, being able to look back up the hill and see your footprints making the complete circuit where no one else went. Rob, you gonna get off your ass and give us some pix? no one's even gonna understand where the hell this thing was... oh, yeah, and i'm wondering if i'm gonna go snowblind...after dropping my shades down the pitch i fried me corneas i fear...in the mirror i kinda looked like i've had a bit too much Gear Notes: 4 screws, 1 worthless picket almost lost in slurpee Approach Notes: blah, blah, moraine, blah, blah, talus

i tried climbing the lower wall of the capital last fall (right behind all those magnificent magnolia trees)...though totally out of sight, men with guns appeared before i was 10 feet up the column. people in d.c. have no sense of humor. my bro and i retired to the national arboretum right next door and proceeded to pick a mouthful of khat from the east africa display. good times. virginia sucks. i fled as a rat from a sinking ship. seneca is extremely cool however, but hardly worth selling your soul to g.w.

ah, but if you catch a huge honking shark, and he drags you along your intended course for a few miles, aren't you honor bound to row back to the original "biting" point to avoid dirtying the "human power" motto if not, then maybe you should bring 2 rods?

erden, you rock dude! i can't imagine letting anyone pissing you off w/ negativity. so are you bring a fishing pole or what?

goal this year = not puking at chains atop first route of the morning afterward

you may only and come drink then if you're confirmed at climbing greater than 5.11c, and if you cum more w/ 1 nut than a full troop of boy scouts

i'm happy to see some life has sprung into the oregon forum this week...maybe we should get a pub club together and start a fight? the season has come for cool hood shit...who's going after the spider this year?

i believe they're 1/2 inch, but then i've never placed a bolt before and generally eschew sport climbing. i still have the bolt at home, maybe i'll take a picture and post it.

the bolt yanked because of an outward, not downward pull. i bet you could just stick a free bolt back in the hole, gingerly move up a little bit, then clip the rope higher to the next good bolt and continue aiding up, removing the sketchy bolt 'fore you go. it's only appropriate there be a lot more sketch on a monkey puss route

october 8-10 works for me, but only if steve's there!

shit, takes me at least 15 minutes of cursing at my fahqing adjustable aiders before i can even clip the 2nd bolt...