ivan

i took a nice big fall y-day from the top of the w crater rim...took off my crampons after they started balling badly in deep snow; discovered a few minutes later that there was ice under it all and i couldn't stand w/o the cramps. put both my tools in and clipped to them and started putting my left crampon on when suddenly i was flying downhill, headfirst. amazingly i was able to grab my bouncing, gyrating axe from the daisy chain and after a few hundred feet, shortly before getting launched into the fumarole, i was able to stop. of course there were plenty of folks watching. i waved. but, w/o crampons (they were way uphill) i couldn't easily reclimb the icy slope. i asked for help recovering my spikes. the 4 closest (about 50 yards away) said they'd stop by on their way down from the summit.... now maybe if i was all bloody...

and on a related note, the dvd and book are for sale by mountain gear...and for a short time, if you make the purchase, they throw in a swiss army knife (a 38$ value) for free. i'm a crude fucker so can it be that i'm the only person who finds this a little rude?

nice. the pictures show a beautiful day w/ all those clouds. i probably would have felt paranoid the whole damn time that i was gonna get swallowed up in them.

Climb: Mt. Hood-Cripple's Route Date of Climb: 11/10/2004 Trip Report: looking for a little evening distraction last night so climbed the s side w/ my buddy chris coyle (his first ever ascent of a glaciated volcano). weather held until we got to 10k, then chased us all the way down the slopes. we saw the stars briefly. the snow fucking rocks! hard as iron so you can don crampons in the p-lot if you want (we waited till the top of the lift though). encountered a fantastic rock for bouldering on just a few hundred feet above the lot....lie-backy thing w/ a big inside crack. feel funny. my 1st period class is walking in now and it seems like the second time i've seen them today. Gear Notes: divine light Approach Notes: niiiiicccceeee

no problems...my head ached for a few hours. there would have been a big bloody hole if i had forgotten my helmet like the week before when climbing ice w/ pat. my helmet's a bd half dome. there's a big crack in the back from sitting on it last year, but it appears to work well when hit by falling shit. probably woulnd't help much if i fell headfirst to the ground or swung hard into something.

I don't want this to be a faqhing helmet vs no-helmet thread. after getting nailed in the noggin this past weekend, i thought it would simply be a good idea to have a post where, every time someone was saved by wearing a helmt, they wrote it up to say thanks to the little plastic thing w/ a big heart. my example for the weekend. leading pitch 2 of moscow at smiff. about 20 feet above the belay, 1 piece in, i get smashed in the dead center of my skull (right where the target's painted on my helmet). a second later i hear "rock." i'm woozy and my brain aches terribly, but i hold on and finish the route. no doubt i would have been a gibbering idiot (well, worse than now anyway) if i hadn't had my helmet on. the rock that hit me was baseball sized.

nice redemption after you cold night 2 weeks ago! so what's the green line?

sweet mama!

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB1&Number=293491&Forum=All_Forums&Words=fuji&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=293372&Search=true&where=sub&Name=&daterange=0&newerval=&newertype=&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post293491

do a search...i've seen this discussed here before and there was som ereal good beta.

i heard they fined the guys a shitload for each bolt they put in...at any rate, they conviently placed a sign by the prow of the rock there claiming it's actually part of the west face closure area. fahqers.

i agree, ya gotta name it something...if ya wanna be all touchy-sentimental you could call it after the unfortunate victim of the sandy headwall that same day.

excellent, that's def the one pat n' i saw last week. looks thicker than it was then too. good call on skipping the mixed part of coconut cookie crumble...too much fun in one day can be lethal.

n face of hood isn't in the selected climbs book is it?

ummm, to be honest, all i know about latin i learned from watching spartacus this is why i don't teach english (or latin, for that matter) you got someone to climb at beacon with?

looks to be right balmy in tuff land

you got a humvee? it's pouring out my window now and i think the forecast today was for 8 inches, starting at 4500 feet. that makes me think that the road's gonna be impassable much lower then it was last week, but then i'm a screaming nancy-girl. still, i reckon the skiing oughta be sweet. maybe see a big slide come down the n face while you're up there?

freezing level to 10k on friday? sucks for hood.

milosh would have constructed a wind proof thermal sealing bivy sack w/ only his titanium boxer shorts and a couple of pubic hairs, cocooned himself inside, then blissfully wiled away the hours waiting for the storm to subside by contemplating the meaning of hate-fuck

what were you planning on doing up there, oleg-me-boy? you sound as if you could use some lessons from milosh!

works for me; how about the 3rd or 4th weekend? or a thursday? we need a place. and some awful nice sweet talking n' playing coquetish w/ steve

wouldava liked to summited, but undeniably the right call. i got the most out of my day (cough, cough) sick as i could want. so here's what i've done, not including a mystery line i still can't locate w/ rbw'66 2 falls ago. the route i'd encourage a hard man to get after is not visible off to the left of the picture

there was no shortage of ice along the cooper spur, as your pic testifies i love how you can see the faqh'n wind nuking in that pic on the spur; the walk down it was fantastic w/ the wind drifts n' cornices already blasted on - sinking into waist deep powder was a bit exasperating though

yup, that's it. can't see that super scary middle section too well though.

as a late postscript, we saw an amazing ice climb, about 3 pitches, left of our climb. teh 2nd pitch involved overhanging ice, but might be skirted on the right. it connects to the spur. sorry no pix. go get it and post a tr.