ivan

Nice. what was their story? i figured if it was going to have a happy ending it would involve them bivying in the caves on the summit, old-school style (maybe they found the magic mushroom farm i installed up there by the toasty, moist fumaroles - might explain their difficulty in coming back down the hill?)

there are dickloads of historical trip reports (few containing much imaginative profanity regretably) on stuart available if you go to the "trip report index" at the top of the screen and then get an army of chimpanzees to work the many search options. my advice - do the complete n ridge, in from mountie creek, down the sherpa glacier -plan to bivy either at the toe ridge and fire it all in one day (start real early) or do the approach and climb to the notch in a day, then up and out the next. bring an axe and crampons for sure.

is a windshirt optional or required gear for the drive?

my own buddy jesus chest-beat (wtf, how is being incredibly stupid and coming balls close to dying something to be proud of? i share my great stupidity mostly 'cuz i think it's funny) - anyways: at 3 a.m. in the winter, halfway up the right side of the ice cliff glacier my partners and i discover we left the ropes at the cache (interestingly, these are the only sober guys i've climbed w/ lately - i think maybe i'm ultimatley safer when a little bit senseless, certainly more paranoid). we've already come up stuff we don't wanna downclimb, the ice is very thin over the slabs and dinnerplating - we decide to just go up n' over the normal way and screw our original objective. i go first, get through the last, short vertical section - get both tools onto a flat section, but it's all powder snow and really flimsy ice - i think "be careful here" and next thing i know i'm flying backwards down the cliff. i sail over the heads of my partners below, bounce twice while experiencing hte most violent and disgusting feeling of acceleration i've ever know - i see sparks from my crampons, feel my arm nearly yanked off as a tool catches and is ripped away, my headlamp dissapears and in the darkness, in just those few short seconds, i felt a complete acquiesence to my impending death - no sense in fighting i thought, this bitch is over, just shut up and take it - then i cratered into the deepest powder snow and instantly stopped, my helmet packed with 6 inches of totally compressed snow. i'd fallen 40 meters, not quite vertical of course, a crampon point was broken and i'd lost a glove along w/ the tool, i could hardly breathe for a half minute - but i was ALIVE MOTHERFUCKER!!! what a great way to feel! on a more amusing note, one of my partners reported later he had to fight the urge to puke for the next 5 minutes at the vision of me passing over his head

no dogs? so the canine trifecta record is still up for grabs???

iain don't do the cooper spur, i seem to recall i bet the spur will remain a viable option up the mountain for a couple more weeks at least

so it's the middle of the week? who gives a shit! it's summer, baby! ...it's time to identify a lucky cadre of unemployed (or aspirant) bastardos who wish to assist this public school bitch in finding frequent and frenzied diversions from the tyranny of home and hearth over the summer - first opportunity is june 22-4 (then i gotta come home saturday and ride the mt hood choo-choo train for the day they make it to look like that cartoon fucker, tommy) climbing objective to fit your particuliar wussed out abilities or alpine hardman mad skillz if nothing else, i wanna find some pdx types who can at least do some all-day cragging during the week

anyone gonna be out there closer to 330-4? pm me if so and we can get a jump on the late wankers - otherwise i'm showing later.

it's on like donkey-kong!

Climbed it in winter w/ joshk a few years ago - some interesting mixed climbing just below the tower, big snow-filled crack to the top - all in all pretty lackluster though

rob's symbol is immoral and illegal in most civilized portions of the world and would definitely involve me losing my current job, were i to be so inclined that said, for john holmes it'd be more like: 8=========D

y-day at the butte rocked w/ the world famous billcoe and "little giant" ireneo fuenes (sp?) - i got today covered at broughton's but still looking for some love this here sunday - smith bitches! ride share n' lovely language company?

well, i guess that's one way to discourage more people from climbing - good sense too, there's too many punters out there already! seriously, i can't imagine anyone getting real fired up about climbing after doing one of the rapidly eroding dung-heaps of central oregon, but if they do, they'll certainly cream their damn panties when they go north.

funny as hail - bon voyage, biyatch!

come on, it's gonna be sunny all day tomorrow!

it seems to depend on the phone - pete's phone got no signal anywhere on the mountain on our ptarmigan trip (right next to liberty ridge) - and yet i know a phone was involved during one of those rescues/tragedies from last year.

the only solution is to cut the cam in half and give each party a portion! if the involved parties will simply send the cam to me, i'l handle the rest.

looks like it's drying out wednesday/thursday - i'd like to climb somewhere local after school (3 pm) one/both of those days. also looking for anyone who wants to do a smiff day trip sunday - you know, eat a shitload of mescaline and marvel at melting nubbins all day pm me if you're game

mine worked great on denali then got wierd on the t-line trail on hood - i think the volcanic dust was bad for it. i frequently need to clean the fuel line to keep it good these days - bastard!

nice job

i've never seen that route crowded, certainly nothign like the south side - if the road's open to cloud cap it's always possible though. i seriously doubt the upper mtn would be out of shape already, but it's been a month since i last climbed it. go do it.

the weather can be fine above 6k and shit below, it can be shit both places, and it can be fine below and shit above. this weekend it was the first option. the ingraham direct is strait forward and no-doubt has a massive trench cut into it currently leading to the summit (unless it gets buried in new snow-fall) - i odn't know if rmi is guiding yet, but when they are there's a non-stop line of wands to boot. go. take copious amounts of magical herbs. you'll have a good time regardless.

the center gully would certainly be climbable and very entertaining (one of the guide books mentioned it was climbed very early on in the route's history) but the objective risk would be too high for my taste - there's evidence of a good amount of debris below the gully as ice chunks from the cliff do come down through there. still, it had a large amount of near vertical water-ice and would no doubt get the heart pumping.

don't know how i forgot to include this one - sunrise from 11k