ivan

any route on mt. washington mt torment by any route sucks stupid granny's asscrack, in prime conditions...

meow!

horsetail falls to punchbowl falls back down to the road to oenata gorge is short (about 4 miles?) and very cool - it's just a few miles east of multnomah, but doesn't have bad crowds. the first fall comes right down to the road.

nice! that or bear's next on my list...

josh, we saw in the summit register a crew from 2 years ago i think reporting that they were bound for the summit of shuksan via that nasty ass ridge - jesus, i thought, now there's an adventure!

a few hundred feet lower there was a flatish area of snow, but still w/ a lot of exposure, and preventing an immediate start on rock in the morning. we made it work - it was just wierd. seriously, this is an awesome route and should be done by all non-suckers.

3) maybe we all too busy throwning down on the alpine? for cragg'n, this be the season for beacon anyhow...

good times. my own personal highlights: -fear of sudden drowning death on log bridge 15 feet above a raging series of rapids (fear of shame from lord layton that made me walk the log instead of pussy-hump it) -sketchiest bivy i've yet done w/ ludicrious exposure below my 2 foot wide down sloping ledge -45 meters into my first lead commiting onto a totally pro-less slab (what can you do? a bullshit cam and a half-driven, tied off knifeblade and a lot of goodwill got mike up right) -the 20-some-odd occasions shrieking death from dislodged rocks rushed by me (managed to only get hit once, by a softball sized nugget - already entered the grievous wound to my "serious injuries list for 2005") -our names the first in the register for this year, only 4 last year, including iain and nick -endless raps off the top (first the red rope's a coily little bitch, then the green, then both of them - bastards!) -using pack above head as a shield when mike was rapping - motherfuk'n frightening last rap onto a 6 inch wide ledge, 3 feet above and 3 feet away from the glacier, with a hungry 80 foot moat just below -grateful dead rocking the mp3s in the frosty bivy the second night -endless march out -cliff diving at some meth-head shithole in b-ham - super awesome in the raging torrent boulder problem to get to upper pool - almost drowning in said pool - hitting feet onthe bottom on second dive - witnessing a drug deal go down in the park on the walk in -drinking way too much beer downtown - arguments over names n' avatars - a huge burrito - "hey man, you wanna buy some crack cocaine" on the walk to the car (my response "no thanks", mike's "hey, FUCK YOU!") -the most hateful drive home ever - beer wobblies and half-heaves on mike's living room floor followed by sunblasted interstate of death for 5 hours through rush-hour traffic, fighting the urge to just crash into a gas-truck to make the pain go away... so yeah, an awesome time - don't anybody else go do it, it's too dangerous!

nice job oleg n' friendz - this is what i like to see, the n cascade forum all filled up w/ space happy tr's!

thanks !

sounds like a great trip - way to get a bunch of shit down on the few days outta lock-down!

nice - you aint' had the whole deal though until you've done the lower ridge too. believe me, it's worht it to go back and do it all right!

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/8643634/ shit, scotty was badass - i never knew he was shot 6 times on d-day! he lost a finger that day too, but you could never tell... a fuk'n'canuck too

in this mad-mad-free-fuck-beautiful-world we live in, if you do dog routes, you can't really bitch about being pissed on by dogs...doesn't seem to bother them either.

shit, real cascade hardmen (and hardwomen, i suppose for that matter) chalk up their before getting busy...

wow, that's nice - that'dve kicked the shit out of the heinious longer route in from gunsight...a must-do next time.

could you use this picture to show the approx. hi pt for doug's direct, or is it too far off left?

grooovy

finally some shots... gunsight notch, day uno looking back at the slopes underneath gunsight on the traverse to jberg - i wish it'd looked this sunny on the way out! the first glimpse of joberg on the traverse the route up the east ridge with bivy marked, the "white granite staircase" is the first bit up to the bivy the "white granite staircase" up close - not scary at all, it has 3 rap stations to comfort the solo climber looking back at the traverse from gunsight from the bivy at 7200 feet unbeatable view of formidable from the front porch of the bivy a little tease for anyone contemplating the torment-forbidden traverse mandatory shot of parking lot from joburg - shit, it's only a mile away! my top out at the false summit, looking over to true summit oh-so close; note the deeply shitty clouds threatening to swallow the whole world my moment of truth - the last picture i took - the "desolation slab" - low angle, thick w/ running water, bone-crackling wilderness exposure - had to be crossed to get to gunsight. excellent time for some mocha caffeinated goo.

well, i had been thinking about speed walking the t-line in a day or so, but now i'd feel like a total choad anyway! nice work, my russian druk.

yeah, the cj coulior looks very intimidating - there are big patches of rock, and i have no idea what that rock would be like. if i was gonna descend that route i'd want to ascend it first, to check it out, and i'd want the full on ice-get-up too shit, i HATE my computer - why won't it see the disk w/ my pictures on it? for chrissakes, it's right THERE!

funny shit - totally inappropriate behavior is clearly the best reason for climbing w/ The Beast

that and because the chiro-school groupies are so much hotter n' flexible...

something about my uber technique-less climbing style has resulted in destroying the toe-box of my climbing shoes once again - a tragedy as they were the only pair of old-school hitop lasportivas i could find a few months ago. i wanna see if i can salvage them before i buy new ones - where are the good repair joints in portland?

the questions are usually harmless, and as i'm most likely to be horrendously stoned once i've reached the parking lot or descent trial, i'm usually in a feel-good-but-fulla-bullshit mood, so it's fun to fuck w/ 'em. effecting an accent is an excellent start...