ivan

dr. zaius...dr. zaius.....doctor zaius do you mean to insinuate that bad-ass orangatangs don't need no damn-dirty hooks?

You know, I can possibly see using the word in a benign manner for effect--and on very rare occasions, but you seem a little too "fond" of it lately, and, frankly, I'm not sure why you're being given so much latitude. maybe b/c his best friends are niggers? hatred and bigotry lie in the heart, not in the tongue white-folk qualify for the *-word-right if they listened to public enemy as child still, you gotta be one brave fucking honkey to try to throw it out in front of the soul-brothers

hey, give sarah a chance!

dude - i think practically every mofo's who's ever done slesse drunk off that same cliff-scrotum and was jubiliant for it! so again though, for those who have done the crossover - how quickly do you come on a water-source? seems like it's gotta be faster, even if it's not till you get back down to the memorial

naw, i thought i should take bill along so his l'ildog can play!

i'm hoping my wife doesn't make me try to choose between climbing saturday or going to the ice-fest

actually, i think obama's best response would be: "okay, you're right - we two senators need to be at work. so how about we just have our vp's go this friday? they're both ready to lead at a moment's notice, right? so i assume they're both ready to debate now too, eh?" i'd like to see mccain's crew's response to that one

i think joe's the one who's done the hard work on this one, as well as flying circus last year all those roof routes look great and i'm looking forward to ticking them, especially that sweet crack that just dead-ends half way to grassy ledges - can't wait to figure out where the hell to go from there!

i'm sure the name comes from the first pitch - there are plenty of fist jams along the way, at least the way i went (right where i am in this pic and just above)

nice! look at my pic above - sounds like you went through the roof right above the portaledge, right? i'm not suprised you used no big gear up there - i used 2s, 3s, n' a 4 on the first pitch though, so i'm curious as to how you skipped that (did you go much further right of where i am in the pix above?) regardless, i'm jealous dammit! it makes my feeble accomplishments seem so much lamer when i french-fuck my way through a route AFTER you've freed it in style why did i have to go back to work? how'd the upper pitch compare w/ stephenwolf? i think they have the same rating?

damned elaborate! i'd like to skip the monster slog out the road next time for sure out of curiosity, does this route pass by water-sources faster than the standard descent? that was the hella-worst part i thought - having to listen to that goddamn river for hours before finally being able to slurp off the mossy cliff

w/ irony: "shut the fuck up you little cross-dressing eye-rolling cock-smoking mouth-breather!!!!" damn, i forgot to put it in all caps...

First time for everything. Do you realy think Bush will just walk away from this much power? yes - b/c billcoe is armed to the teeth and won't put up w/ that kinda shit

kev, you making the rest of us libtards look bad dude! we've never suspended an election, so calm down - lincoln held one in the middle of a civil war for chrissakes! why should we let a little hiccup interfere w/ the old-fashioned rigging of an election, eh?

great observation! i'll take the overkill for tricky descents!

like anyone who's ever hung out in spray couldn't have told you this?

sounds like a comfort assignment - beats the shit out of iraq!

"what do you mean you forgot my prune juice?!"

highlights, chris? i'm due for a ticket any day now

I don't think they are inflated. They are harder for the grade than most compatible Yosemite climbs IMO (with a few exceptions). YDS = Yosemite Decimal System i've never climbed in yosemite, so i cant' comment certainly a 10a at beacon is a very serious affair and a climb that i'll generally find myself pulling on the gear at least a little bit here or there - by contrast, i think i've managed to do most of the 10s at ozone w/o really getting freaked or yarding on the gear in the end, i could care less - ozone's a damn fun place to climb at, and an okay consolation for when i can't go bigger places

also, as a continuing spray contribution, at least the grading at ozone is useful in comparing climbs - they might be inflated grades, but they are consistinetly inflated

route 66 is fucking hard!

good call on the ear-pro bill - when i fired off my little bro's ar-15 up on livingstone mtn in the wild and heady days of the post-iraq invasion i was certain a) i would never hear again and b) i was going to fucking jail

Trip: Beacon Rawk - The Bar Date: 9/20/2008 Trip Report: "a feller smarter than myself once said: sometimes you eat the bar, and sometimes the bar...well, sometimes it eats you." "that supposed to be some kinda asian thing?" guess i was due for a smack-down - i felt far too jazzed and excited going into the weekend - the plan was to climb takes fist and some other neglected beacon classics saturday, then bivy on portaledge - i wanted to hang the ledge somewhere other than ground zero, since i'd spent a night there already, and thought i could make the nice fat bolts on ground zero work (though, admittedly, they're only 20 feet to the right of the GZ anchor, they are smack-dab underneath the tremendously cool roofs, a plus given the potential for rain in the forecast) anyway, the day started out well - met geoff at burger king where he scored some mediocre coffee - we headed out to beacon and packed up a shit-ton of gear and bivy goodies in our haulbags and walked on down - i took my friend mike's portaledge, having practiced enough w/ it in my garage the previous 2 days to realize i'm a mechanical retard and shouldn't be allowed to have children (too late ) the first pitch i did for takes fist has been seeing some cleanign lately and is certainly improved for it (that you joe?) - the crux for me is the very thin .9ish part down low, just to the right of the only fixed pin on the route - 00 metolious cams and very thin nuts are important, as well as a sense of balance and finesse, none of which i have the takes fist moniker is apt - once you diverge from ground zero it gets awesome for fist jams! not easy to find at beacon so you gotta savor them when they arrive - buoyed by the joy of being in a real crack, i ignored the mist and light rain to finish up the first pitch which has several very cool sections where you dance out on face holds - the last 15 feet to the anchor is fuck-all hard and didn't seem 5.9 to me my lack of intelligence screwed me once at the anchor - i figured i should go ahead and haul up the ledge and set it up, as the room was tight and it woulda been a pain to do w/ a second person at the anchor (it's just 2 big beefy bolts, but you can put in several more pieces of gear off to the right) - i hauled up the ledge but had difficulty getting it deployed, and once out, hanging right - basically the setup sucks, since there's enough of a dihedral there so that the ledge only makes contact w/ the rock at 2 corners and wants to go all crazy when the weight shifts around on it in hindsight, i shoulda just brought geoff up, done the money pitch, then rapped ground zero, hauled to the GZ anchor, and camped there - ah well...instead, we all ended up on the ledge, it got wierd, and we broke the damn thing (but, oddly, not in a bad way, though we didn't know till we got to the ground - a knot that anchors one of the straps to the corner of frame blew, but geoff was able to retie it) - so we ended up having to reverse the whole damn process and ended up on the ground w/ the evening coming on at least we had beer - and jim - and geoff's bro - to provide comic commentary and photography - we rallied, fixed the ledge, attached it to the giant tree that grows by the start of free for all, drank some more, then headed off for a corner climb in the dark - this was actually the first time i'd climbed out at beacon (intentionally) in the dark and i had a damn ball - i did it in boots too, to further the funk - having 2 headlamps made in very chill and we generally debauched our ways all the way up uprising, then rapped down only to camp in the rain - geoff eschewed the ledge though sunday morning was dank and shitty and we were due home, so off we went - i can't wait to get back at TF though - with the cleanign joe's done on the upper pitch, it looks frig'n fantastic! and then there are all those roofs off to the right... Gear Notes: takes fist can use on pitch 1- a green alien-a 00 metolious-an assortment of other small cams- tinynuts-3 2camelots 2 3s 1 3.5 and 1 #4

what guidebook doesn't have such a warning? you know how choss goes - when it's bad, you can pull out all you want and there'll still be more!