ivan

ahh, behold! the alpine padded cape! 80% rain w/ 15 mph winds! come on people, what's not to like? truly, you will be ready for the winter sickness after this.

saturday at beacon? come'on, it'll be fuuuun.

cam hooks are awesome at beacon - i found them critical on pipe-dream and fresh-squeeze

dude - i'm way hotter than the hulk - here i am trying to find someone who can actually read

yeah, no one can ever see me, that's why i wear a red shirt

out of curiosity, why not print more books?

my daughter's been getting in trouble for wailing on folks at her pre-school - apparently the other girls are mean to her - i somehow doubt my ability to solve this most ancient of intractable problems - better to be the beater than the beaten though, no?

how hard can it be for someone to step in and fill the void? cam hooks don't exactly look hard to make.

it's coming up for certain - think i'll be doing a warm-up for it this rainy saturday

now, why do i have to be awake at 7 a.m. the following morning?

hey bill, when i gon' see you 'gain, boy?

i don't exhale

all the more reason for aid climbing - you ain't leaving shit!

i'm a washingtonian climber and enjoying the hell out of myself, even if i've yet to do a FA of a kewl alpine route

so that's X2-3 pieces in the .75 inches and less range - assumign you'll be climbing harder and harder (read longer and longer) crap, you'll need more gear - especially if you just give in and go over to the dark-side of aiding having at least 2 of the following makes it such that you can usually make a fine rack when climbing w/ someone else who has some shit: blue, green, yellow, red aliens (.5, .4, .3 and .2 inch pieces - i like having 2 of each alien, than having 1 each of the same size tcus) fun, hard routes invariably lead to wider cracks though, so eventually having 2 in the .5 to 3" range will be necessary

i thought of this one independently - isn't it fahqing wierd how much she seems the soul mate of quayle? fuck - didn't he actually GET to be vice-president too?

dave, didn't you say you fell down low? you mustn't been too dinged up though, eh? your pro held? (was it right above the pin?) the pro sure is thin there though for the first 1/4 of the climb, and the potential for getting hurt is palpable - which is no doubt what makes it fun! i agree the last part is mid-tenish, but it's a pretty clean fall on very solid gear, so nothing out of the ordinary there

there's a ton of groups that use that particular shithole - why do you single out those 2?

pissed i couldn't make it john - i got the day-climbing or night-drinking ultimatium and couldn't finance the baby-sitter that woulda gotten the cake too - blah, blah, blah, excuses - oddly i guess its easier for me to make pdx social events during the work-week? no matter - i'dhve been too broke to contribute to the cause and i have a feeling i woulda flailed at the competetion as i bet my fifi hook would be considered cheating?

Yes...this is just for conversation. It just gets my goat that 20 years ago it was ok to put bolts in at Beacon.but if someone wanted to put up a sport climb there in todays world..they would get shunned. And to answer your question Ivan about whereI have no vision of this..just the idea. maybe this explains why folks are opposed to new bolts then - pretty much the whole south face has been climbed trad style already or bolts have been put in where warranted, and now the only sport lines that are going to get put in are going to be squeeze jobs crowding in on existing trad climbs? on the other hand, the north side could offer some fantastic winter/hot-summer-day sport climbing on rock that doesn't support trad, and i'd be plenty happy to see a fair number of sporty climbs there, if only they could also get cleaned w/o all the hassle that appears to be involved - i think it'll also ameloriate the situation if one side of the rock is sport-intensive and the other trad-centered - the two camps won't even have to talk to each other, just cast disgusted looks across the parking lot

since it's just an academic conversation anyways, where would you envision new bolted routes at beacon, kev (at least on the south side, which is pretty much totally covered in routes as is, a substantial # of which are neglected)? its seems like most of the lines out there will go as trad, they just require balls and cleaning are these new bolts placed on rap you're talking about, or just replacements? south side or north side?

hey dave - it'll make you happy to know jim says the 5.9 rating is just the lower part - the upper part is in fact much harder - just ask joe!

how else was i gonna tag up me smokes?!?

saw the ultra-kewl 1st edition y-day - great pictures - i hear the "safety break" pic got purged from the final cut?

hey, but at least he won't have to pay for a lawyer! noted w/ humor y-day kevin that the arete just to the right of me in the pics above, just below the roof, has several bolts - part of smooth dancer, maybe? whatever it is, it leads to the "crack to nowhere" which has me currently titillated