ivan

very cool

they do actually have quite a few simliarities, all in good ways tear it up on prusik dude - i did it as a c2c a lng time ago - don't know if i coudl justify all the walking for a quick climb these days, but if ya'll can, you should fold in something else - the west ridge is over real quick - at least traverse the ridge tothe boxtop or rap and run over and do a lap on serpentine arete on dragontail!

bill - family flies out friday so i'm building up good will to hopefully last 5 weeks at the moment i got my vida loca pretty will primed up for god to laugh at...

why isn't this a tr? looks like the chilis of doom i'm always frantically yanking oughta my mouth when eating the wife's curry (does that sound as wrong to you as me?)

friends don't let friends climb the cascadian coulior

98% of kev's complaints could be solved by simply inserting "spray" after "cascadeclimbers" but in front of "forums" in the upper left part of the screen curiously you'd never take the man to be one for semantic arguments though, no?

you're not forgetting seattle ken AKA wallawalla ken AKA 112 w/ lostcamkenny wouldtca there dave?

put your mtnbike tr in the newbie forum so no one can harsh on your mellow

you know, when i think "bad ass climber" the first occupation that normally enters my mind is "cpa" too

Trip: Der Dread BeaconWand - Old Skewl North Face "Railroader's D-light" Route Date: 6/22/2009 Trip Report: the first rosy tinges of the dawn of the summer of 2009 - child in my bed at 2 am - complaints of taking up "his room" ensue - pestered w/ personal dreams of glory before 6, sleepless, i'm raging off the cot early - formalities at school observed - freedom!!!!! the irascible kenny at the washougal burger king - chicken biscuit bitch! the fun drive in too slimy for the n side after days of rain? time will tell. chilling at the base in the muck - ghetto blasting w/ the new stereophonic funkytown setup, a sweet inspiration from corvallisclimber (nothing like leading w/ a boombox blowing on your hip!) i don't think the original oldtimers from the railroads in the wild n' heady days of the cleveland administration (first or second, who fucking keeps track of such things?) did the same first 2 pitches as us, but they likely were more sedate and staid about the affair - we had similar compunctions about frenching, foot-fucked in the moss i have zero doubt kenny at the anchor atop pitch 1, from the view looking down at the top of 2 - would be beacon rock boulderers, there's your bullshit down there! kenny at the top of pitch 3, finger on the 3rd to the last of the 19th century via ferrata rods the fa'ers put in back in covered-wagon-fuck-your-mama-in-the-futtock-shroud days the top of the pitch above the rancho relaxo (a fine place to call a fire mission in on the ranger station, fwiw) - this pitch starts in poison oak and pushes through surprisingly terrifying mud slathered blocks and dirt steps - this image shot from the mega-comfy, designed by the baby-jesus sweet ledge above and beside the rap tree, perfect for shoulder-belaying your 17-stone companion any day (my favorite anchor - a biner through an 8-on-a-bight on the fixed line above & a daisy chain round a sapling - SERENE approved!) is it me or does kenny look like a fawking flesh-swilling zombie here? the last pitch to the summit makes me want to lobotomize meself each time i think of it - wandering right then left over stacks of gaint overhanging shitty blocks - poison oak everywhere - poison oak in my eye ball - on the rope - harshing on my fucking mellow! on the summit ridge i tooled by the trail, smoking and taking in the lovely ambiance of a weed-wacker and a snowblower rainign filth upon the tourists - rod serling slumbered serenely to the north prior to scaring hte tourons, we marched down the top of the north buttress to inspect ole'larry's tomfoolish first rap anchor - jesus fuck - filthy latinos! didn't seem to faze kenny... hard to complain about any day you rock-clamber to the zenith of the bacon-wand! Gear Notes: a late 19th century combination of sport and via ferrate - a dozen slings, a yellow alien to 3 inch cam rack and a couple nuts Approach Notes: through the spooky forest

do you really want to see how they make the sausage?

i guess if i didn't weigh twice as much as you, fairy-boy... how far does that rap go and how many more/types raps below?

shouldn't this be in all caps?

the n side has suddenly sprouted a # of new semi-bolted, badass climbs

the last day of our nutsack climb yielded one of my vaunted Ten Worst Hangovers Of All Time !

clibmed the n side today w/ the irrascible kenny - will be spending all evening in monastic prayer as i contemplate the inevitable poison oak wallowing that finished off to the summit might should take some pix on my camera - why can't i have a photo-coolie?

wow! - now if only you could add a waterfountain on the summit?

now that's an awesome fucking picture - you tweak it any?

cool - good info - on fixing the lines, can you rig it so you don't have to pass a knot on the jug back up?

also, as the nelson topo is pretty shy of details, is it possible to fix the first 3 pitches w/ 2 60 m ropes? what are the decent fixing options if not?

watchaya'll who've done it recommend - what can stay and what needs to go in terms of iron/hooks? i'm trying to make it w/ my poor-man's rack, which lacks triples - anything i should steal from the rich?

can't say that the article was all that interesting, but at least the page contained a nice link to their hawt sponsors, "joyful nudes"! -

man - the truth hurts! mostly i ain't letting my kids become climbers b/c i'd have to deal w/a world of shit from the wife over it, plus it completly freaks me out to see my kids on the verge of death

most of beacon's routes can be done by the weak (such as myself) w/ no pure aiding (no etriers) - a fifi hook and a willingness to french/fifi on gear when desperate allows you to retain/regain strenght to get through difficult sections, meanwile you free everything you can some very fun climbs that can be done in this mixed style (say 5.9 C1): - blood sweat n' smears - flying swallow (use local access/flight time to approach its upper 2 pitches, all of which but the first 30 feet can be free climbed by the 5.9 climber) - blownout - bluebird - stephenwulf (madness!) - jensen's ridge - complete dod's jam (dastardly crack at the top is a delight for the 5.8/9 freeclimber) - riverside (meow!) at any rate, its a massively cool chunk of stone, and you shouldn't let percieved weakness scare you away from those intimidating routes - someway or another, i always seem to find my way up them and i can't climb to save my life!

hey, at least you got the approach part nailed - a badass object fie fo'shizzle - go back and get it! but do yourself a favor and climb the n face bertolius route instead and just descend the beckey