ivan

now that's an awesome fucking picture - you tweak it any?

cool - good info - on fixing the lines, can you rig it so you don't have to pass a knot on the jug back up?

also, as the nelson topo is pretty shy of details, is it possible to fix the first 3 pitches w/ 2 60 m ropes? what are the decent fixing options if not?

watchaya'll who've done it recommend - what can stay and what needs to go in terms of iron/hooks? i'm trying to make it w/ my poor-man's rack, which lacks triples - anything i should steal from the rich?

can't say that the article was all that interesting, but at least the page contained a nice link to their hawt sponsors, "joyful nudes"! -

man - the truth hurts! mostly i ain't letting my kids become climbers b/c i'd have to deal w/a world of shit from the wife over it, plus it completly freaks me out to see my kids on the verge of death

most of beacon's routes can be done by the weak (such as myself) w/ no pure aiding (no etriers) - a fifi hook and a willingness to french/fifi on gear when desperate allows you to retain/regain strenght to get through difficult sections, meanwile you free everything you can some very fun climbs that can be done in this mixed style (say 5.9 C1): - blood sweat n' smears - flying swallow (use local access/flight time to approach its upper 2 pitches, all of which but the first 30 feet can be free climbed by the 5.9 climber) - blownout - bluebird - stephenwulf (madness!) - jensen's ridge - complete dod's jam (dastardly crack at the top is a delight for the 5.8/9 freeclimber) - riverside (meow!) at any rate, its a massively cool chunk of stone, and you shouldn't let percieved weakness scare you away from those intimidating routes - someway or another, i always seem to find my way up them and i can't climb to save my life!

hey, at least you got the approach part nailed - a badass object fie fo'shizzle - go back and get it! but do yourself a favor and climb the n face bertolius route instead and just descend the beckey

it's never too wet to aid climb!

there are no stupid questions, only stupid people

which 5 perchance? i bet there are more you can do, especially if you're willing to relax your sense of style a bit

to spare my children this spectacle, i ahve decreed the daily bedtime as 930 a.m.

oddly, the lesson battleship was we should build a giant navy of nothing but destroyers

i don't know if its the wine or my wife, but this suceeded in coalescing into a gaint gut laugh

Its a poor choice of sport for us big guys my favorite "caving" expereince was finishing the top of iconoclast/whatever on scw in late october - following he pressure chamber in the dark w/ a pack on - an extreme sense of claustorphobia choking hte life from me - falling out into the darkness, hanging in space - my fat prusiks sliding on the sport rope we were climbing with - ow!

pat - starting next week my wife n' responsiblities are gone for 5 weeks! the next 2 i'm gonna be homebasing out of seattle and have some open plans - josh and i are thinking about several things - ne but j'berg/formidable linkup, the cool n face climb of redoubt, bear, etc. wanna get on board?

i notice that several people here appear to have an opinion about something

exxxxcceeeelent! and for your hard work i award you the highest honor i can bestow:

their side of the rock was super stormy today - completly mist shrouded - climbing on the n side under the giant roof by headspace however was dry n' sweeeet! off a week from today for the mighty summer - last school of today ( !) - the falcons can lick my taint - 5 weeks from now, after squampton, n cascades and the valley, it'll be there, sans all the harsh'n'my'mellow signs for that good season, the fall and its storms, and no crowds!

aye, and a mighty mighty prominence it is! what it lacks in verticality in more than makes up for in adventureness as its 75% covered in poison oak badass day at beacon today ya'll! pouring rain but snugged under the triple rooves of goodness by head space miker and i ed it out - the best was trying to tr the aid route we like w/ no directionals - at the 5.12 bit we inevitably peal and take giiiiiiant swings out into space and lower each other just right so as to drop each other at insane speeds, swinging through the soaked brush!

never underestimate the enthusiasm of a man w/ a drill

There are a couple of boulders at Beacon, off to the left of the trail to the top (in the foresty area), Hwy 14 side. I'm not sure it's worth making an entire trip just for them though... also down the west side talus field there's 1 and li'l beacon rock itself, up by the camping ground

my 1 pant leg/1 short leg zip-off debacle yet triumphant ascent of slesse

maybe he was busy fixing the cable?

for a man who's always in such a hurry, you sure do take a lot of pictures cool pix - they capture the work of the glaciers 'round there quite well.