Alpinfox

How dry is Great Northern Slab @ Index? Any recent reports appreciated.

Somebody found a couple bags full of climbing gear in downtown Seattle. Anybody missing any gear? Link to craigslist ad The ad says:

Interesting that, as JosephH says, the Slyde can be used as a load-limiting device. Google search revealed this diagram from an accident report involving someone using the slyde in a load-limiting self-belay anchor setup: Note that THE ACCIDENT resulted not from a problem with the Kong Slyde, but from the use of a toothed ascender device (Petzl Croll) to connect the lead climber/caver to the lead rope (obvious no-no). The climber was also leading on a static rope. Despite the fact that the description comes from an accident report, it seems to be a clever rig for limiting forces on rope solo leads. Rope diameter and sheath "slipperiness" are obviously going to be very important variables in determining at what force the device slips. The Kong website doesn't have much in the way of technical info about the device.

Yeah, I have mine rigged "incorrectly" according to wdietsch's pic. They way I have it rigged, it acts like an autolocking munter. Apparently Kong recommends using this device with a 9mm dynamic rope. In my pic I'm using ~5mm cord. I tried rigging it the "proper" way with my 5mm cord and a slightly misdirected pull results in the hitch slipping to the end of the rope. The way I have it rigged it locks down much better (with the small cord anyway) but is a little more tricky to extend.

Thanks! So I think this is how it works: Do you know what it is called?

I believe it is a kong adjustable daisy. Can someone tell/show me how it works? Anyone used one? Do they work well? Advantages/limitations over other gear?

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Congrats Gator. Pretty cool to have a hand in getting something done in the guvmint. Now can SAR team members get a free ice cream cone or something this week?

BUMP

A suspicious ad in south King county. LINK Seems like the random assortment of gear one might get if they swiped a duffel out of someone's car.

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8D

I don't know what this is about, but I like it.

Globalstar Qualcomm GSP-1600 Satelite Phone $250 These normally retail for $600-700 GSP-1600 sat phone at amazon.com I read somewhere that Emergency 911 calls are possible without paying for service. Not sure if that is true. Service only costs $35/mo though. This could be a great piece of gear for your next expedition to some remote place.

Looks awesome. Congrats VK! Is buying the book through the website the best way to get the most money to the author (fewer middlemen, commissions, etc)?

Wind will have no effect on the temperature of things that are already ambient temperature such as snow, ice, water.

DANE? when I see tool I think Dane

white-throated swifts I believe

Today is the last day.

I started a thread in the Access Forum with a link to the letter: CLICK HERE

CLICK HERE A letter is already prewritten for you, you just need to put in your name and address. YOU NEED TO DO THIS BEFORE FEBRUARY 4th!

So I just got an email out of the blue from Mike Preiss. He asked me to post this little mini-trip report of his trip up the face that IB is on. Here is his email:

Suspicious Craigslist ad from kitsap county: I contacted the guy and he emailed a picture: Lots of brand new-looking BD gear. Not sure what those green fig-8 things are.

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