Alpinfox
-
Posts
4951 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
1
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Everything posted by Alpinfox
-
Use the links above. They are updating their story as they get new facts. Liberty Ridge isn't 12,000ft tall anymore.
-
Cool! According to Komo, Lib Ridge is 12,000ft tall now! I gotta get on that thing again! It disturbs me that the media is so incompetent when it comes to reporting simple facts about climbing/mountains/nature. It makes me very suspicious of all the other "facts" they relate.
-
I thought the 20% off coupon was only good on non-sale items?
-
i'm sorry mr. fox, i just would never be able to climb w/you. you're downright dangerous...you forgot at least one of the 382 essentials in your list. how can you possibly go anywhere w/o your portable blender????? good grief! how do you expect to have frapped beverages w/o it??? Do portable blenders go beep?
-
you can also check the cc.com FAQ
-
true true. Maybe I should hock a couple camalots and buy a pad?
-
but you are unemployed and have a ton of free time!!! bum
-
wow, now I wish I had money to travel
-
"Thank you" "Thank you" "Thank you" "Thank you" "Thank you" "Thank you" "Thank you" Yeah, it's pretty easy to pick out the NOLSy people at the crag. However, we are talking about NON-VERBAL communication systems here.
-
Welcome back Dryad!
-
Goddamnit Mr.E, you ain't supposed to post pictures of the secret crag!!! But to answer your question, yes, I too, "feel the stoke"
-
What is your favorite picture that you have taken. Doesn't necessarily have to be climbing related. Please post it here.
-
It's comforting that the title of the magazine in which the winning articles are to be published is not mentioned in the ad. "I had sex in a snow cave once". <---- A climbing partner
-
Perhaps the good doctor, expert sendbot that he is, will chime in and let us know his estimation of the utility of downclimbing to a rest as an onsighting tool?
-
Yeah, If you climb up to the crux and find that you're out of position or you need to switch your hands, just DYNO dude! Whatever you do, don't downclimb and reposition yourself. That's a sign of FEAR!!!
-
There is a pair of sz38 Anasazi lace-ups in really good shape at Second Ascent right now for $35. Good price! Wish they fit me.
-
That's a lot of driving!
-
Climbing Lizard:
-
Maybe practice downclimbing and finding rests so you can recon a crux, downclimb, rest, try it again, downclimb, rest, SEND! Not always an option of course. Specially at Smiffy. And just do a lot of onsights. If you are reluctant to move off sketchy holds cuz you are afraid of falling, take some clean falls on a good bolt.
-
MattP is #420!
-
Add some hand jammies, a battery-heated jacket, shoe-mounted LEDs for nighttime climbing, sticky rubber knee sleeves, EPIRB, cell phone, backcountry espresso maker, plexiglass face shield, a few more random things that go beep, 114 item first aid kit, Z-pulley setup, and the kitchen sink and you gotcherself a climbin' rack!
-
-
In a situation where the climber hits a crux, they are likely to pause for a while while trying to figure it out [no rope goes out for a while]. Then, when the climber tries the crux, they might fall [belayer would feel as though (they were) being pulled off the anchor]. The above is VERY BAD advice in my opinion. I would NOT use that system. The system I use and like is: When climber is off belay, they pull in lots of rope (20-30ft) hand over hand much faster than they could climb then pause to allow belayer to remove rope from belay device. Then climber pulls up all slack. Three [very strong] tugs means second is on belay. I think the "reel in lots of rope = off belay" method is better than "some number of tugs = off belay" because the belayer should keep a bit of slack in the rope and if they feel a tug, it could be the climber fighting with rope drag or trying to clip or something and they should give a bit more slack. You can't communicate a tug on a slack rope. This system works so well for me that I often use it even when my partner COULD hear me if I yelled. It's really nice to ascend a multipitch rock route without all the yelling. Peaceful. Zen. Realigns the chakras and shit. It's da money. I think any tug system is your best bet. Just make sure that both partners know the same system. It's probably also a good idea to practice your non-verbal rope commands in a safe environment (a multipitch sport route or something) before using it in the mtns. It is unfortunate that there isn't a standard rope tug language like the whole "On belay, belay on, climbing, climb on" shizzle. I'm a bit of a luddite, so I say, leave those radios at home YO!
