Alpinfox

OH.... you were "TOM"... as in TomTom... Now I remember... Forgive me, I was dropped as an infant.

Yup. No booty nutz for you! Which guy were you?

Jeff H. and I climbed LC on 7/24/04. Free climbing (11a) or french-freeing (5.9, A0) is definitely the way to do the first pitch; much faster than aiding. I led the second pitch (aid) over the Lithuanian Lip which was pretty easy (A1+ maybe?) supposedly harder to follow than lead. After the first two pitches, which I led, Jeff H. and I swung leads. Jeff led the third pitch which is the aid crux of the route, but still very easy, just a little freaky because the gear doesn't LOOK solid. There were two other spots where we did a few moves of aid (like at the "rotten block"), but it went pretty quickly. I think we went base to summit in about 11hrs. We had to wait a total of about 30minutes for a group in front of us. {chestbeat}They fixed the first three pitches the day before and we still caught them. {/chestbeat} Gear: Single 60m rope, single run of stoppers, single rack of cams to 3", doubles of 0.75, 1.0, and 2.0 camalots, a few offset aliens were nice. One BD Skyhook for a single hook move on p3. No other hooks needed. Supposedly camhooks can speed things up, but we didn't use them. Try not to carry very much weight. Jugging with the pack was the toughest part of the climb, but we carried too much water (6 Liters! Thanks Sizzy! ). We also carried a 60m 7mm tagline which we didn't use. We used THIS TOPO which is very good. Thanks Clint. It's not that hard of a route, but it is pretty long and tiring. DEB on SEWS is a better climb than LC. Some pictures: East face of Lib Bell. Lib crack splits the white streak and goes over the roof "lithuanian lip". Looking down the first pitch of Lib Crack: Jeff H. leading p3 of Lib Crack:

Thanks for the beta guys. It looks sweet and I'd love to give it a go, but being 6+hrs away will probably keep me off of it for a while.

I don't remember what the rap rings looked like. I'd bring a couple. If you can get some good beta on the other descent, I'd go that way even if it does take two ropes. It would be a steeper rap (less clusterf**k), fewer raps, and would put you in better position at the end of the rap (don't have to cross the "glacier" again). Plus, you could share the beta with you dear friends on cc.com!

Well, I've lived in this "industrial wasteland" for a few years now, and I don't recall it ever being so hazy as it was last night. Marine inversion eh? Anyway, back on topic, here is a link to a webcam aimed at Snow Creek Wall. Doesn't look too bad out there: OH OH OH CLICK ME! CLICK ME!

Driving back into Seattle last night on I-90 it was obvious that air quality wasn't "prime" here either. Anyone know why it was so hazy last night? Fire?

I also used two 60m ropes on Triumph, but I think I'd only bring one next time. Low angle 60m raps are a pain in the ass. Ryland, bring a knife along on your climb and remove some of the old, excess webbing from a few of the rap stations. It was pretty obscene when I was there and I took home a few handfuls. Has anyone here tried to find/use the rappel down the southeast side of Triumph? It would be a lot faster and more direct.

It's not obvious to me where on the mountain your route is. Could you put an arrow on one of your overview pictures or something? And driving directions would help too (Jordan?).

Summit registers suck, but Hooray for Klenke!

Got WINF? See attachment

On-sight, free-solo, first ascent. Fugggggg yeah.

I need money for gas and food. Both of which are aid I think. Check yo PM's yo.

I'm prolly gonna head out there today with my friend from Portland. Most likely meetcha out dare. You bringin' anybody?

Q: Hey Alpinfox, old chap, is that tent of yours still available? A: Why yes... yes it is. Thanks for asking.

Click here for fire info

What a fantastic trip and trip report; inspirational! Congratulations on living the dream. Please PLEASE post some pictures.

Sounds like a fun outing. How did you get the picture of yourself swimming? Long autotimer? Did you chop that long webbing chain? Looks like trash to me.

As in, they forgot it or what? Anyway. You goin' ta Index tonight?

So you ARE a rope thief!!!

Your American socialist system very helpful for slackers. Thank you for allow climbing bum to post.

I've got one spot left in my for a trip to WA Pass this weekend. We are meeting at my house (Ravenna/Wedgewood area of Seattle) at 7pm tonight (Friday) and coming back on Sunday evening. PM me if you wanna help pay for some gas and have a rockin' weekend on some HOT granite!

People who use improper syntax when quoting harry_pi

"Climb yer sixty meters and SHUT THE FUCK UP!" This is why newbies like to climb with me

A letter from Ansel Adams to his friend Cedric ? dated June 10, 1937: Dear Cedric, A strange thing happened to me today. I saw a big thundercloud move down over Half Dome, and it was so big and clear and brilliant that it made me see many things that were drifting around inside of me; things that relate to those who are loved and those who are real friends. For the first time I know what love is; what friends are; and what art should be. Love is a seeking for a way of life; the way that cannot be followed alone; the resonance of all spiritual and physical things.... Friendship is another form of love -- more passive perhaps, but full of the transmitting and acceptances of things like thunderclouds and grass and the clean granite of reality. Art is both love and friendship and understanding: the desire to give. It is not charity, which is the giving of things. It is more than kindness, which is the giving of self. It is both the taking and giving of beauty, the turning out to the light of the inner folds of the awareness of the spirit. It is a recreation on another plane of the realities of the world; the tragic and wonderful realities of earth and men, and of all the interrelations of these. -Ansel