Gary_Yngve

Well, he's a Euro, so I gave him some slack there.

A few weeks ago I was up on Vesper with an albinist alpinist. Because of his condition, he has few cones in his fovea, and as a result has poor depth perception. Going downhill across steep wet rocky rooty crap was challenging for him, but he persevered, without a single complaint. I was inspired/impressed.

It depends on the tone of your original query to him. Hopefully it was not accusatory. A responsible partner should be prompt in replying to a phone message / email asking if any gear got mixed up. I'd rather hear,"Sorry too busy to check my gear until next week" than to hear a nonresponse. The only gear issue I've had was when someone lost my new picket in the Pickets and replaced it with an old picket (both ends all hammered). Not a big deal. The biggest money issue I've had was when my driver asked for money to cover gas, maintenance, and insurance, and his insurance calculations were, I only drive on the weekends, so since this was a weekend trip, you're covering half of insurance for the full week (e.g. 1% of his annual bill). I decided to pay up and in the future either don't climb with him or tell him I'm not chipping in for insurance.

I'm drinking to me. Anyone else can drink to whatever they want.

If I make good progress writing up the next assignment, I'd be game for drinking to celebrate the successful writing, administering, and grading of my first exam (was aiming for an 80 median and got 77).

Andy Selters will be doing a multimedia music-infused show at UW on Nov 30, 7:30 PM. His show, Ways to Sky, is on the history of North American Mountaineering. Should be way cool. Tickets, available at the HUB Ticket Office and at Pro Mountain Sports, are $10 each, and 100% of that goes to the Access Fund. Hope to see you there!

Bruce Tremper has a similar statement in his book, how with 99%+ correct avalanche decision, the life-expectancy of a BC skier is finite (see the book for the exact numbers).

I'm speaking strictly about the weather on the mountain, but I have only been in Japan in March, and I have never been on the mountain. I'll again stress the importance on talking to some climbers over there -- folks die on Fuji in the summer, so any literature intended for the general public is going to make it sound impossibly dangerous in the winter.

Also remember that folks drive on the left side of the road (and are sitting on the right sides of their cars), so your natural instincts will be off. Almost got me in a bad wreck on a major road in England.

What are all of you? I was INTJ in highschool / undergrad, but have shifted to INFP now. (The INTJ part is interesting because I'm sure my advisor is an INTJ, and INTJs are a small percentage of the population but a much larger percentage of CS grad students). If there's any association with engineering and climbing, then climbers should have more INTJs than the average population?

Yep, in the most recent ANAM, there was a lower leg fracture resulting from a short ice-bouldering fall. (.5 meters to the first impact, where the damage occured, another meter till he stopped)

If we're talking about bad slideshows, Fred Beckey's appearance for the UW Bookstore when he read for an hour from his Range of Glaciers book, and the dumbass projectionists in the back couldn't figure out how to turn off the front lighting and focus the slides.

I saw Lynn Hill speak in B'ham a few years ago, and I have to agree -- though her show was enjoyable and she's an amazing person, she didn't have much showmanship on stage. I kinda got the same feeling from Steve House too (at FF a year ago). Will Gadd and Timmy O'Neill, on the other hand, are absolutely amazing speakers.

Unique festivals?

A classic tidbit today: (I sent my advisor some ideas an an email a few days ago.) Him, interrupting my analysis of the Zuu matrices: But what if we could improve the stability by (idea that I sent him in email)? Me: Yeah, that's a really good idea!

The weather will likely suck, and the mountain will be "closed." Dunno if you'll need a special permit. Imagine climbing S side of Adams at this time of year. Your challenge will be finding instructions/descriptions for going up Fuji for *climbers*, not yahoos. I'm sure there's good biking between the mountain villages, though you may not be able to do a Kropp-style trip.

Yeah, I'll be there at 8 or 8:30, assuming it's not a monsoon outside (a lil drizzle is ok)

I like the Korthaus. I may make an appearance, as I have both my practice midterm and real midterm written already.

Jim sells C4s now. Regarding sticky cams, I climb regularly on Met TCUs, DMM 4cus, single-stem Camelots, and aliens. I've had the most problems with the TCUs. But I imagine it's more of an issue of the type of rock, how careful I am about keeping the cams out of the dirt...

Oh yes. But the point here was that my advisor accused me two years ago of giving up too early, saying I could have found a way through had I persevered, and I just proved him wrong. I don't know what's with all you fuckers saying that I'm whining -- I was bouncing up and down on cloud nine when I discovered this, and I was merely sharing my glee.

Two years ago a project I was working on with my advisor fizzled out. My advisor contended that I gave up to early, and I contended that he led me down a wild goose chase. This weekend, as a corollary to some other work I was doing, I proved that what we were trying to do was impossible.

40m is 33% heavier than 30m.

Anyone notice how a non-Aryan such as Bush was worried about the preservation of the non-radical Muslims?

Anal Sis: Porn In undergrad, I studied Real Anal, Complex Anal, and finally Num Anal.

Nor had Earl Warren.