Gary_Yngve

amo amas amat amamus amatis amant Tuum caput stercorosum est.

What's that saying, Great minds think alike?

We said grace before the meal last night. I'm not religious, but I did not find it offensive -- in fact I thought it was well-said. Our grace was a nondenomational thanks for the food, friends, family, and a reminder that there are folks out there less fortunate than us. As for mashed potatoes, nothing beats the mashed potato volcano! The gravy last night was thick and smoky. Bigwalling, it sounds to me that your attitude toward your family is contributing to the problem. I hope one day you will have some people you will be happy to call family.

The first time I led it (in someone else's not-quite-fitting rockshoes because I had forgotten mine), I mantled way early and did the balancy traerse to the .75 crack in the corner. Scared the shit out of me. Now I always do the hand traverse until I can yard up on that crack. For pro, just place that piece in the .75 crack high.

I'd call 6mm perlon marginal. It wil generally have a strength of around 7 kN, whereas 7mm is 10 kN. (Different brands may be +/- 1 kN.) A double strand is twice as strong, but one of those double strands as a knot, which will chop some percentage (40%?) off the strength, meaning about 8 kN for 6mm or 11 kN for 7mm could cause failure.

How often do you find yourself untying your cordalette for other purposes? For the double overhand knot in a cordalette, I assume you're not using the 5-5.5mm tech cords (that are slippery enough to require triple fisherman)?

They tell me that they're flattered.

http://www.xmission.com/~tmoyer/testing/EDK.html

And Dave Schuldt too.

I don't know if I used any specific pickup lines ever, but I have a whole list of geeky quotes and activities from when I dated a gal who a few years earlier had scored in the top 10 on the USA Math Olympiad.

The folks who allow it can be bought. Next question.

it's on the market because people will buy it. next question.

sure, fine by me. the sad thing is our dept even issued a memo on students' expectations of their advisors and advisors' expectations of their students. one of the specific statements was, "when possible, an advisor should give students at least 24 hours notice prior to a meeting." of course the document also had other ivory-tower BS like, "students and advisors should view each other as colleagues." i assume you've been to phdcomics.com?

Miscommunication would be: Mon 2:30 PM: my advisor emails me asking to meet at 3:30 Mon 3:00 PM: i email my advisor that i am busy then, but i am generally free 1:30-5:30 tuesday, and he should schedule earlier as there will be no guarantee of obtaining a timeslot later. Tues 2:00 AM: advisor emails me saying he can't meet in the afternoon but he can meet tues morn. he's incorrigible!

Latona @ 8:00 PM. CBS, yeah, it's not N Ballard, but it's still decently north, and you didn't suggest a specific place yourself.

prefunking is drinking alcohol before the event because you either won't be allowed to have any at the event or you're trying to be a cheapass. in my case, i have a source for free pizza and beer until 8:00.

Turns out I have a free prefunk hookup for tomorrow, so it could be a cheap night for the GY. Anyone else game for some pubbing? I'm choosing The Latona as the default place.

A snippet from an email... the first part was mentioning that they get a lot of "thoughtful" packages with useless crap. "...So if anyone you know wants to be thoughtful of soldiers in Iraq let them contact someone and ask what they need. If you would ask me I would say the one most important item and one that they do not sell in the PX is rechargeable batteries and small quick chargers that work on both 110 and 220 current for NIMH batteries. Soldiers use a lot of CD players and flashlights and never have enough batteries. Just some thoughts for those at home."

The beans and rice is much better. 1/2 cup raw rice: 400 Cal, $0.10 (50 lbs jasmine rice for $20) one can TJs Cuban Style Black Beans: $1.29 360 Cal, respectable amounts of fiber, calcium, iron way more flava than a stale bagel

I would think that the cinematography would be the biggest problem for alpine-style climbing. As an example, look at Splitter. Yes, there's some badass footage in there, but cinematographically, it sucks. Climbers can watch it, because it's cool climbing in cool places, but not the general public.

Good show!

??? Is Iain a Scrabble buff?

I had other plans last night. I had a Scrabble doubleheader with my regular partner to make up for a disappointing game with someone else over the weekend. Game over the weekend: I won 484 - 175, and I wasn't even hogging the triple word scores First game yesterday: I lost 453 - 295 (thanks in part to an amazing 92-point decanter play by my partner on the 2nd to last move) Second game yesterday: I narrowly won in the endgame, 318-308

Foggy in the city and sunny in the mountains means foggy at Muir!

Robust Nonlinear Control Design: State-Space and Lyapunov Techniques by Randy Freeman and Petar Kokotovic "Unfortunately, in reality a robust control Lyapunov function is often not known. Our path now climbs to a higher lookout point with a clearer view on the construction of rclf's. Although we will not reach the highest peak, our climb will nevertheless be rewarding. In this chapter, we will develop robust backstepping..." "Before we begin our climb, we dedicate Section 5.1 to the inspection of the climbing gear available at the base camp. This includes the now classical Lyapunov redisgn in which there is a known clf for the nominal system..."