Gary_Yngve

PM Slothrop. He was up there this weekend.

The mathematician says that Loren's suggestion generalizes for n too. The physicist calculates how much more force is necssary to pull the rope evenly while alternating directions n times. The engineer says that you can't fit that many people on a rope anyway, so why waste your time?

hmmmm, maybe they were doing something else... like the fifth force? i really don't remember -- it's been about a year since I bumped into them. and my physics knowledge is primarily mechanics and optics. but they've got to be taking advantage of the immense amount of dense rock surrounding them.

Yep, the setup Loren is describing looks like a Z when stretched out completely.

We saw some UW Physics folks there one time. They mumbled something about having to release the radon and said something about using the facility to detect neutrinos or something. Lancegranite is correct that it was used to test the Chunnel drilling equipment.

Looking for someone to help us out Fri night so that we can bivy at Stuart Lake TH for an early Sat morn start but have our car parked at Snow Lake TH. We can negotiate a price in . I'm sure we could also find some folks spontaneously at the climbers' bivy, but it would be nice, for peace-of-mind's sake, to have things already set up. PM me if you can help out. Thanks, Gary

PM Fromage... he's like size 14 or something

When we did Serpentine last year, I climbed the left side of the pillar. The pillar forms a corner with the main face, and the crack behind the pillar is offwidth, but an inner crack lets you protect with finger-size to hand-size pro. The belay atop the pillar is quite dramatic. One more pitch leads you to the crest and gentler terrain. I thought the rock on Serpentine was, for the most part, better than the rock on WR Stuart.

The 3.5 friend feels more like a 3 camalot to me. From Clyde Soles's excellent page on usable cam ranges: 3 friend: 1.8-2.2 3.5 friend: 2.1-2.7 Yellow Camalot: 1.6-2.1 Blue Camalot: 2.1-2.9

You mean the fact that scamazon.com sells climbing gear?? Bingo They're becoming the Walmart of the Internet. And from anecdotes I've heard, they don't treat their employees too well either.

Not the gray alien, but equally scary. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/B0000E5NC3/102-2350416-0000125?v=glance&n=3402531&s=sporting-goods

We also found a noseless Liberty biner. I haven't heard of Liberty, so I guess they're either defunct or bought out? Too bad there's no way of knowing how long the biners had lying there when we found them. Would have been fun to know how long it had been since people have climbed there.

the oval biner is noseless only writing on it says: Recreational Equipment Inc ten years old? more? On a slightly unrelated note, does anyone remember any specific biners that do or do not work in the homemade hangers on EBD of SEWS (i.e. neutrinos)?

http://www.dogtoyormaritalaid.com/

Someone graciously volunteered to retrieve the gear!

By variations of the West Ridge -- generally avoiding the ledges on the south side and either wandering to the north side or staying on the crest. We had several pitches of 5.9 and ended up bivying just short of the summitblock. But we got what we came there for -- adventure on granite! Found lots of old booty too (noseless biners, etc.)

Descended Ulrich's couloir a few days ago. Pretty melted out. Ended up rapping a few times due to cliffs, waterfalls gushing over wet slabs, scary thin snow, etc. Found a Nalgene belonging to "Jenkins" and an old-school helmet that apparently had fallen off someone's pack. The sucker must have weighed two pounds! Greg, the summit block is free of snow -- you'd have to drop into a couloir or find an isolated patch in the shade on the north side.

Any Seattlites heading up to do the C-D or NR this weekend? Some gear was left behind after the rescue last weekend. If you'd be willing to carry it out and bring it back, you will be rewarded with good karma and PM me and I'll tell you where and what to look for. Thanks!

http://www.oxmed.com/docs/datafiles/pilon%20fracture.html

I think Nelson's suggestion is for the final summitblock. You get to the false summit, drop down a little saddle, and then when you go up to the true summit, there's a short wide crack that takes a hex near the bottom of it.

specifically for reconstruction after a pilon fracture. Dr. Winquist's name has come up again and again, but other names would be appreciated in case he's booked. Please PM Stephen_Ramsey with any suggestions.

Honestly I'd prefer a professorship where tenure is determined more by how good of a teacher you are rather than how many papers can you churn out and how much grant money can you bring in. I don't want to be a professor who enslaves his grad students. But having grad students is very empowering. You can pursue multiple ideas at once. Hell, I have a couple side-projects now that are getting basically zero attention. The ideas are all there -- just no time to implement.

From REI?

Well, we can have a grassroots campaign where we call the peak Denali instead. The name could change eventually, just as how the English lexicon evolves over the years. Get guidebook authors to rebel and call it Denali in their books. Now, the key question about Denali is whether that hard route is the Czech Direct or the Slovak Direct. Other peeves: Why don't we use metrics? I'm making an effort to speak in metrics (instead of our screwy system) when in regular conversation. Why do we do "Month Day Year" instead of "Day Month Year" (like the Euros) or "Year Month Day" (good for sorting)?