tomtom

huh? Avoid the Aztecas and try some of the smaller taquerias (sp?). Well, folks, let's start seeing some names and addresses. The closest place to me is Agua Verde at UW. Not bad.

There's really not any good Mexican restaurants in the PNW.

Normal membership at VW is $45/month.

Why think 'conceptually' when we can address REALITY. A half-rope system allows us to reduce rope drag over a single rope system. Period. And, no CBS, as engineers/designers, Rumr and I aren't really "conceptual thinkers". Actually the relevant factor is the ratio of the diameter of the rope over the radius of the inside rope bearing curve of the biner. Smaller ropes or bigger biners reduce this. That's why using multiple biners on a top rope anchor makes it easier. Duh. Sanitation engineer?

Lots of gear listed, little available. A great deal if you're looking for stoppers #1-4. Otherwise

As the girls always reminds you, size matters.

Here's a super secret spy photo of the ideal new Costalot

$6.38 ea.

Yup, fodder for THE NEW AID CLIMBING FORUM . On my first time up, I used a small cam and a tricam to get to the bolt ladder, nuts up the crack (Trango Brassies rock), and another small cam as the last placement to the bolts. 2 hrs up, 1/2 hr of futzing at the belay and cleaning on the way down. Bring a small hammer to help with nut extraction.

The red and blue one at Stone Gardens.

Performance Bike Shop over in Bellevue usually has this stuff on sale. They have more sales than REI.

"Just before the accident Saturday morning, the two climbers were walking atop the narrow ridge between the ice walls. Cooley was climbing on the east side of the ridge, while Richards was on the west side. Cooley was about 50 feet ahead of Richards, and they were connected by a climbing rope. Cooley, Gottlieb said, tripped on a crampon, slipped off the cliff to his left and fell about 30 feet. He was swinging like a pendulum when he hit his head on a rock. Cooley's fall yanked Richards forward, and he found himself holding Cooley's limp body at the other end of the rope. Richards wasn't pulled over the ridge because the rope was tied to a harness in a way that absorbed much of Cooley's weight."

not a good one either. i actually had to rap off anchors this weekend where taped crabiners attached chains to the hangers. fukin gay as a three dollar bill. screwlinks are better and less pricey and lighter and smarter and better looking. Why didn't you replace the carabiner with a screwlink? Are you a three dollar bill?

Or go to the map making kiosk at REI and get a map printed on waterproof paper showing the south side. Probably cheaper than buying two regular maps.

My condolences to the family, friends, and rescuers. A sad day. - Tom

The Mounties have it covered.

How about this. Remove the bottom and it's essentially a Polarguard quilt.

Ballnutz 1 and 2 are only rated to 4.5 kN, so I don't know how far you would want to fall on them. My trick to get them out is to tap on the base, not the ball, with the nut tool and hammer. Therefore I don't shove them all the way in placements. I've only aided on them, not fallen on them, though.

eBay

Big nuts. Feels great when I can squeeze them into a tight crack.

Northern Mountain Supply Join their club (free) and you'll get 10% off. Also for us Washington types, you'll save an additional 8.8% on the sales tax. $1.99 shipping is cheap.

Too bad the girls aren't as forgiving.

Lifting your leg is one set of muscles, standing on that leg to move forward and up is another set. As you surmise, adding ankle weights will build the leg lifting muscles as training for wearing the plastic boots. It's won't necessarily help overall cardio, however, it will probably help the endurance of the leg lifting muscles.

Ordered Yates BW Gear Rack Monday night, arrived Thursday! I first called the 'local climbing store' Feathered Friends because I need a rack for this weekend. Ya, they have the Yates BW gear rack in stock. So I drove down Monday to buy it. It took repeated explanations to the sales droid that I wanted a gear rack, not a harness. So he points out a gear rack on the wall. "No, that's a Misty Mountain. See the label?" Then he spies the next one, with a Yates logo. "No, that's the Yates free rack. I want the BIG WALL rack." "Oh, we don't have that." No shit. Went home, fired up the laptop, and now I have my gear rack. On time and under budget.

??? Cause <--> Effect ???