tomtom

If those $20 intuition liners are available in your size, buy a couple pair and then go to Second Ascent and buy plastic boot shells. Twight recommends buying a slightly smaller shell than normal for better technical climbing. The heat formable liners will mold to your foot and the inside of the boot.

We snagged a route on Shithouse Wall around 8 am Saturday (Tucks, I believe). Then the sun came out and ice started to calf off. After 7 straight days of ice climbing, we decided to bag it after a couple laps. Many people were real cool about sharing ropes. Other people were not (there was a very loud discussion at the Gazebo Wall around lunch ). The Swiss guy topped out on the comp route in ~18 minutes after doing multiple consecutive figure fours. He crawled over the lip after clipping the anchor biner and just lay there for several minutes. Announcer said he had just finished up a run of the flu. Impressive. Yates demoed a new detachable leash system involving a biner lashed to the tool and stiff wire loop strapped to the wrist. A friend has a pair and they work pretty well. Omega-Pacific showed a new prototype cam which has multiple unfolding cam sections, so the range is HUGE. Vasque had there new boots (the yellow singles and red doubles). I tried a few pitches on the yellow. The sole and shell around the foot is rigid, but the ankle is pretty stiff as well lateral. The rep said the production boots were different than the demos and were more flexible. There is a new company called The Magic Line which is making high end alpine gear. I bought a wool-lined (baaaaa) schoeller jacket with hood at the silent auction. They said that they will be coming out with an ice glove that is cut with curved fingers to the shape of the ice tool grip. (Yeah, I think the company name is pretty pretentious. )

I've been here since last Saturday.

You have to go to college? Does this mean that you don't want to go college? You should seriously rethink your priorities and get some direction in your life, dude. College was the best 14 years of my life.

you way wrong. people who ask noobie questions and chestbeaters who pretend to know the answers use rockclimbing.com. like lamb-one. A case in point. More quality content.

If? No, the content of cc.com has already been degraded, not only by the spray, but also by the people who don't post because they don't want to wade through the spray.

Well, Joe Simpson is no Ed Viesturs ...

Think Gone with the Wind meets Vertical Limit.

I went to see Touching the Void tonight.

Lubricate the threads if you're worried about this.

Me too. The ride in yesterday (fresh snow) and today (slush) was ok, the ride home was a bitch (ice). Brakes didn't work, and when they did, the bike skidded our from under me.

Smartwool, Icebreaker, and Duofold Merino wool. Baaaaaa.

She had seen enough.

Wouldn't Fred have also noticed that the cairn was on the false summit as well?

I baked a pair of the Morrow/Intuition liners for my Koflach Verticals. They were great for ice climbing at 4 deg this weekend.

I bought a copy of Don's Waddington guidebook, and it is excellent, not only for the route descriptions and photos, but also for the history. I'm looking forward to WCIce II.

These results are for a group of people. Individual results can vary. I started off taking 125mg twice a day, which helps, but doesn't prevent AMS. 250 mg twice a day is more effective for me. The individual needs to figure out what works best for them, and starting off at the 125mg dosage is reasonable. One advantage of Diamox over Viagra is that it is much cheaper. Also your tentmate might prefer you peeing in the bottle at night.

So how can we tell if you get this brain wasting disease?

Yup.

Not very. Breathability test

I went up to Paradise on Sunday after the big dump and the road didn't open until noon. I was following an suv which spun out in a turn and took a nose dive into the snowbank.

Avalanche Reports

This is why people die from avalanches........"check the conditions before you go". That just doesn't work in our climate. Snow stability must be assessed on site, just logging on to Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center and then figuring your safe to travel through the Source Lake basin is asking for trouble. People have been caught in avalanches while digging snow pits as well. Sometimes on site stability testing isn't what it's cracked up to be.

Touching the Void opens in Seattle on Jan 23 at the Egyptian Theater. Joe Simpson will be at REI on Jan 20 to debate Murray on the accuracy of his book.