Necronomicon

Took Friday off. Tried Rideout -5. Watched "X-Men", wished I was a mutant so I could fuck a hottie mutant. Drank alcohol. Ate pizza. Enjoyed rain. Climbed Spantik Golden Pillar B'Ham-to-B'Ham in 11 hours. Had dream about Buddy Holly and band, with killer elerctic banjo player, playing tunes on roof in rain a la Beatles "Get Back". Banjo player was aware that they would die in the next couple days.

I think it's hilarious that Americans are hermetically sealing themselves within in their houses in order to protect themselves from "terrorists", only to risk self-suffication in a matter of hours. I wish I held shares of 3M. This only goes to show how ignorant Americans are on basic concepts, like breathing, and how all that works.

So much for male dominion over writing our names in the snow...

2"-6" surface hoar on top of a thin crust, with lots of depth hoar. If you get off the snowmobile track into the cirque, you'll need snowshoes. Lots of effort required. The upper portion of Rideout had the wind/snow/spindrift thing going on, and the conditions on the approach suggested some gnarly stuff up higher, in addition to the weather shitting out by the minute. There was some ice in the Silvertip gullies, but not a lot of blue for the effort. We didn't have skis, and left the snowshoes in the truck. I would think that any new snow would send the avy through the roof, given the amount and the size of the surface hoar. Amazing stuff, some crystals as big as "toonies", it was like the carpet in Superman's house. On the plus side, our new "approach vs. attempt" philosphy should improve my attitude. You bail from an attempt, while you turn around on an approach. Additionally, an attempt means that the rope was used, rather than simply carried.

But it's so FUN!!!

This is so friggin sad... So, all you war dogs, turning Iraq into a "glass parking lot" will get us in the end.

I love you.

Poor us!!! On a lighter note it seems I'm getting pretty good at getting locked/banned, while some of the other dipshits around here endless threaten to kill each other.

This is so friggin' sad...

Racking pitons for alpine. They rack and slide around a lot easier than on asym. biners.

Filthy french savage, shaking his kid like a bagette. No shit you can kill a baby this way. That's like saying "I didn't know he could get hurt if I dropped him onto the floor." It's a fucking no brainer.

Lucky guy...

LOL What would Colin think?

Nice work!! Mike and I were giving you guys the "muy loco" swirling-finger-to-temple move. Truly inspirational. I spent yesterday second guessing myself, but we made the right call. The sight of the upper pitches pushed me outside of my comfort bubble, given the snow conditions. (I had a dream last night that Mike and I were high on a north face. It was my lead, the snow was totally rotten, and I couldn't move off the belay. The anchors were pitons in rotten rock, which I could pull apart with my hands. I realized I wasn't even tied in.)

Including yesterday's non-start on Colonial, I am currently 0 for 7 on alpine climbs since September. I concluded over breakfest this morning, while I wallowed in my gloom, that up until yesterday, my "non-successes" stemmed from routes being out of condition. It's tough to do a climb if the climb is not there. Having said that, my gut instinct about Colonial yesterday was that the upper portion would be a nightmare wallow of shallow, loose snow over rock, and bailing didn't look fun. The second-guessing, though, is brutal. Could I have climbed it, even if it was in tough shape? Should I have started up anyways, and pushed it as far as I could? Should I put all my gear in a big pile, soak it with the last of my white gas, and set it ablaze? Having said that, we succeeded in getting down through the woods at night without getting too mangled. Good luck to Wayne and David, they should be near the top of the face as I write this, they were figuring eight to ten hours from their low bivy to the summit. I'm looking forward to the TR.

Useless? Yep. How about: "I recently tore myself away from this digital climbing fantasyland and went outside. I found the folowing information, directly relavent to your question...." Not: "I'm a useless fucking idiot. Here's why: I spew nonsense, I have nothing to say, but try and say it anyways. I contribute nothing, I know nothing, but I pass off my ignorance a knowledge. One time, me and Michael Jackson took two twelve...." This is why this website sucks so bad sometimes. Useless...

It's the 5.8 in the corner, just to the right of the 5.6 handcrack, I don't have the gude right in front of me so no name.

Looks like squamish. The handhold looks familiar, and it's well-traveled from the chalk. Pitch 2 of Squamish Butttress?

It's " undelweal "

huh? Duh?

Total mung. I'll never go back, unless my farmed routes come in this year. Four hundred feet of hose was a real ballbuster, but it'll be worth it if it gets cold enough.

I am going to kill you.

Total choss. Don't waste your time. No fun. Shitty. No good views. I wore Tevas for light approach footwear, that was a lot of fun coming down, seeing as we missed the trail to the road and had to bushwack down overgrown talus into the woods.

I don't know a thing about the area. This climb is to the right of Pan Dome, about 75', unless it's in a new area. The pitch he's leading is just left of the farmost ice pillar on that "cliff band".