Necronomicon

For you, Trask, I only harbor passion .

I think you should hold His Majesty while I drain it onto Greg's head.

I think Greg is saying he's a dick.

Bullet to the head. I'd gladly help you with that. You're a loser. What if someone suggested putting a bullet into the head of one of your loved ones, you dick? Thanks for being such a tool.

Yay. After unsuccessfully looking for a dead snowboarder buried up at Baker for a whole day, I had the pleasure, in the parking lot, of having a camera stuck in my face. Sees as KING5 et al were in the parking lot to report on the great weather and skiing conditions and just happened to be there during the search. When the anorexic "blonde" with the pancake make-up asked me if I could point her in the direction of any family members of the then still unlocated deceased individual, I lost it proceeded to tear into her for a good fifteen minutes. You "News Reporters" are nothing but vultures, as far as I'm concerned. In addition to picking carrion, you aslo serve the public by culturing fear and ignorance, spreading misery, and exploiting human suffering to make money through your sponsors. Whenever I see your vans in my town, with your aspirations of "going national", I am always correct in assuming that something bad is happening, and you don't say a thing around here until someone goes missing or gets killed, as far as I can tell. By the way, I'm sure you're a nice guy, but do yourself a favor and find a more respectable line of work, one where you can use your talents to help people, rather than expolit them. And tell your bosses to fuck off for me, if you could. I think they suck.

Still looking for good pics. Anyone?

I never realized how smokin' Condi is. Yeeooowww!!!

Shocking!!!

I added quotation marks to clear up any misunderstandings. Off-White: If conditions improve without a thaw/freeze cycle, than a steep ridge may offer better climbing than an alpine ice climb.

Spantik Golden Pillar(from RISK online) "The ascent was done from the first attempt since June 7 2000 till 18. We were on the top on 6 a.m. Down to base camp - June 19. More than 2000 meters. Difficulty: 6B (Russian grade) and ED2, 7a, A3 French grade."

Maybe this is it...

Anyone have pics of the N. Face of Triumph in winter?

UBB23-ML-140567-ML- This thread turned out not to be about a route report, or even about a route. Spray on, in Spray.

Mr. RURP, Please accept my sincerest apologies. My comments, though tongue-in-cheek, demonstrate a lack of empathy towards terrible historical events. In the future, I will refrain from making light of such tradegies.

Eeesh. My comments were in no way meant to suggest that the death-camps were a good thing. My point was that centuries of hardship, including WWII, has created a society that is much more harse than ours, possibly resulting in a "Hardman" attitude that we lack. We haven't died in the millions lately. This may also explain our cavalier attitude towards war.

i guess thats why fowler and ramsden won the piolet d'or this year then. 1991-The Slovenian party: Pretzelj-Sremfelj for the fantastic 3 000 m way on the south pillar of Kanchenjunga south summit, 8476m (Himalaya) 1992 -Michel Piola and his partner Vincent Sprungli( French ) for the extrem difficult ascent up to the Torre South del Paine east face in Patagonia (the name of the route is "Dans l'Oeil du Cyclone"). 1993 -The youth high altitude expedition of French Alpine Club (midlle age-20 years) for the succesfull ascents in Pamir Alai region, the Karavshin valley. 1994 -Francois Marsigny ( France ) and Andy Parkin ( GB ) for the new route (ice and rock) via the Esperance Col (CerroTorre, Patagonia) and for the surviving on the long way down through the Hielo Continentale. 1995 -Andreas Orgler, Heli Neswabba and Arthur Wutsher ( Germany ) for numerous new route in the Ruth glacier area and especially the new route at South Face of Mt.Bradley (Ruth glacier, Alaska). 1996- Slovenian party Tomaz Humar and Vanja Furlan for the new route in pure alpine style at East Face of Ama Dablam, 6812 m, Nepal. 1997 -The Russian expedition from Ekaterinburg city for the first ascent up to West Face of Makalu (8841m, Nepal) 1998 -First ascent of Kangtega 6779 m NE face Himku valley, Nepal Himalaya. Erwan LE LANN, Sebastien MONTAZ-ROSSET, Herve QUALIZZA, Frank PLENIER, Sebastien SCHELL, Francois PALLANDRE and Francois MARSIGNY, 5c/A1 90° ( French ) 1999 -Thalay Sagar. Himalaya area. North Face (VII,5.9,W15, 1500m)13-20 September 1997 Andrew Lindblade, Athol Whimp.( Australia ) 2000 -Thomas Huber of Germany and Iwan Wolf of Switzerland . The two men were honored for their new route on Shivling (6,543m) in northern India last June. The new route, Shiva's Line, tackles an overhanging, 200-meter headwall at 6,200 meters, with difficulties up to A4. 2001 -Valery Babanov( Russia ). Solo first-ascent of the north face of Meru Central Peak (6310m), located in India's Garwhal. Height: 6310m. Length of a route: 2000m. Difficulty: ED (5 +/6a, A1/A2, M5, 75 °). Duration of ascent: 5 days on a wall (September 17-22). Victor Kozlov's team, (the leader of the team S.Timofeev + 11) 2002 -Siguniang, China Mike Fowler & Paul Ramsden ( GB ) First ascent of the Nord Face central couloir of Siguniang, descent via the North Ridge. Length and grade: 1500m, ED+ VII/AI6/M6. Duration: 14-21 April 2002. 7 days. 6 nights on the face, 2 days descent. Where are all the Canadians ??

I think it's the dilution of the purity of the races. That, and our fat, lazy, comfortable American way of life. Maybe a war on our lands, death-camps and all, with massive human suffering and depravation, would make us harder climbers. Even the Brits climb like shit compared to the rest of Europe. The war was on the continent.

Drank too much after exercising last night and got wasted over dinner. No beta... Try this.

funny, i had a dream about chainsawing a child molester in half this morning Pretty fucking grizzly...

Took Friday off. Tried Rideout -5. Watched "X-Men", wished I was a mutant so I could fuck a hottie mutant. Drank alcohol. Ate pizza. Enjoyed rain. Climbed Spantik Golden Pillar B'Ham-to-B'Ham in 11 hours. Had dream about Buddy Holly and band, with killer elerctic banjo player, playing tunes on roof in rain a la Beatles "Get Back". Banjo player was aware that they would die in the next couple days.

I think it's hilarious that Americans are hermetically sealing themselves within in their houses in order to protect themselves from "terrorists", only to risk self-suffication in a matter of hours. I wish I held shares of 3M. This only goes to show how ignorant Americans are on basic concepts, like breathing, and how all that works.

So much for male dominion over writing our names in the snow...

2"-6" surface hoar on top of a thin crust, with lots of depth hoar. If you get off the snowmobile track into the cirque, you'll need snowshoes. Lots of effort required. The upper portion of Rideout had the wind/snow/spindrift thing going on, and the conditions on the approach suggested some gnarly stuff up higher, in addition to the weather shitting out by the minute. There was some ice in the Silvertip gullies, but not a lot of blue for the effort. We didn't have skis, and left the snowshoes in the truck. I would think that any new snow would send the avy through the roof, given the amount and the size of the surface hoar. Amazing stuff, some crystals as big as "toonies", it was like the carpet in Superman's house. On the plus side, our new "approach vs. attempt" philosphy should improve my attitude. You bail from an attempt, while you turn around on an approach. Additionally, an attempt means that the rope was used, rather than simply carried.

But it's so FUN!!!

This is so friggin sad... So, all you war dogs, turning Iraq into a "glass parking lot" will get us in the end.