Gordonb

For me it is not really how I look, but hauling the 30 or so extra pounds that I am packing limits my ability.

We are staying at my dad's vacation house in Sunriver for the kids winter break. It looks like we will be spending more time at Smith than at Bachelor this year.

Anybody who thinks anything sent on the Internet is private is deluded. Even if sent encryptedit has to be un-encrypted to be read and it is cached somewhere. The admin of a site is god. They can easily read anything. That goes for your work email and your work voicemail. I knew phone techs whould run through peoples voice mail while they were doing maintenance on the system. Is is moral? No. does it happen? all the time.

Where else can you ski at "The Pass" and still get a couple of routes in at exit 38 before dinner? Where else can you split days of the kids winter break between Smith and Bachelor? The Cascades rock!

No conceding until after the judging! javascript:void(0) Besides TLG already has a fan club here at my office. (I am not the founder)

Turkey for Christmas? WTF? Turkey is for Thanksgiving. Christmas is oyster stew on christmas eve and crab and salmon for christmas dinner. Why would you have fowl when shelfish are in season?

I guess it depends on what you are anchoring?

It is nothing like squamish. I have never gotten wet at Smith, but Squamish we climb in downpours.

We will be there sat and sun. We will be comming up from Sunriver, but if you need a belay PM me.

When I was there in the '80s I did the hutch and suzallo with a friend. And was not arrested so it remains un verified.

Looks like we will be down in Sunriver for the weekend, so we will probably see you at Smith. Muffy, what are you climbing so we can get ahead of you this time?

From a physics standpoint Force = mass X acceleration (F = ma) One Newton (N) is the force to accelerate 1 kg by 1 m/s^s. So if we have a 100 kg climber and we slow his fall from 10m/s (about 1 second of free fall) to 0 in 1 second (assuming a smooth deceleration) it would generate (F = (100 kg) * (10 m/s)/(1 s)) 1000 N of force for the full 1 second of deceleration. If we add a screamer to the pro so that the deceleration time is increased to 2 seconds we would only generate 500 N of force. All this assumes a very perfect world where decelerations are smooth and even. Add a good static yank in there somewhere and forces go up very quickly.

I have a split seat made for males. It is much more comfortable on long rides than my old solid seat. Plus since switching I havn't had any disturbing penil numbness.

I like neversummer's question. Rope dynamics will are very important in the optimum placement of pro. I was a mechanical engineer in my previous carreer and my work consisted of breaking and analysing things like this. I understand the forces and dynamics of a fall, but I don't have a clear picture of the dynamics of the rope. The rope is a spring and dampner in the system. The rate of spring and dampning create huge variables in the ammount of force placed on the load points. Without knowing the variables we are just guessing at where are load points should be placed. This discussion is probably not much use in the real world, but I feel much more comfortable understanding the percise dynamics.

Correct me if I am wrong, but I don't think it was the breaking strength tha ehmmic was worried about. It was the streach/recovery time of a thin rope vs a thick rope. I have been pondering that question also. If your first piece pulls does the rope have enough recovery time so that it is still dynamic by the time it hits the next piece? Does anyone have the recovery time of a dynamic rope? Also what is the recovery strength? (after it stretches do you have to completely unload the system before it recovers?) Do any rope manufactures publish the modulus of elasticity and internal dampning numbers of their ropes?

add another hour for getting through Tacoma on a Friday night.

There has been some discussion of the recovery time, but no real numbers. Full recovery time is in the many minutes time frame, but in the seconds (or fractions of) during a fall, how much recovery is done between pulled pieces of pro?

What? You didn't get a job with full time Internet access? Where are your priorities?

I usually just read from the "Today's active posts" section so I don't pay that much attention to what forum it was in.

I agree Nuts rock. Some days I spend hours playing with my nuts.

Hey, leave the ducks out! I work with wounded ducks and ...

If I fell enough to crush a helmet on a big wall, I would bail also. But at that point I would be without a helmet, unless you take a spare. The other problem would be rock fall. After the first rock impact the helmet's protecting ability would diminish. On a crag, you fall and you are off the wall.

A foam helmet, like most bike helmets, are made for a single impact. They assume the fall from the bike produces one hard impact. The shell is just there to help the foam keep its shape. A foam helmet is probably fine for most craging since a fall would probably result in just one impact, either with the wall or the ground. The protection is provided by the destruction and compression of the foam. That is why after a bike accident you need to replace your helmet. They are one-shot items. I would not use a foam helmet for an alpine or big wall climb. In those environments you need a helmet that will survive the first impact and still provide you with adequate impact protection.

Actually that makes some sense. It doesn't require a lot of gear to fail under a "normal" load. The shock load of a long fall onto a streached rope would be about the same as a static rope fall and could exceed the limit on the 'biner. It doesn't comfort me much with that thought. It might be a good time to invest in some screamers.

I have found this whole thing very disturbing. How if an experienced climber can die like that, can I have any chance? I have only started trad climbing this summer and I am still leading well below my climbing ability and have not taken any hard falls onto my pro. I was under the impression that a well placed cam would break most of the time before it would pull. Are there any signs of duress on the cams?