Highlander

Tex give me call.

Looking for a partner for some climbing on any of these dates. Either alpine climbing in the stuart range or north cascades; or cragging in L'worth or index. Send a pm or email if interested.

Climbed Serpentine Arete with Greg W on 6/24-6/25. After the routine hike into Colchuck Lake we pouched a flat bivi spot on the Talus field. We spent the rest of the day wathching day hikers go up and down Asgard Pass. We talked to 3 groups who had climbed the West Ridge of Prussik. The weekend before we climbed Prussik and had it to ourselves. We settled into our bivi sacs early being annoyed by moskitos. We awoke at 5:30 and were on our way up Colchuck Glacier within an hour. Snow was firm and kicking steps was difficult in spots. The approach to the base of the wall took longer than expected. No problems gaining access to the wall, there was a nice snow ramp with a moat below. We had intended on soloing the first portion of the climb, but there was a lot of runnning water so we set up belays. We had no problems with route finding to the pillar. The off width pitch leading up to it was a little nasty with running water in it. The cracks next to the pillar offered some nice climbing begining with a finger crack and turning to a hand crack. We belayed a couple more pitches and at that point I knew we were way behind where I would like us to be. We began simul climbing making decent time, but the rock quality began to deteriate, lots of loose rock. Some route finding challenges on the upper section of the route. The sun was begining to set and we knew we were in a race we could not win. It got dark, and I pulled out the head lamp. Greg was concerned about how much longer we could continue in the dark and thought we should consider a bivi. I was willing to keep going, so I lead off just heading up-up. Greg had no head lamp and had fun cleaning the pro. Eventually I heard the loud roar of wind and knew we were close to the top and then I topped out, without stopping I continued down to a ledge, pulling Greg over the top. BY this time it was 11:00 and quite cold. Greg mentioned possibly biving and waiting for daylight. I started batmanning around trying to find a decent route. Eventually after lots of downclimbing and looking around I spotted some rap slings. We made three rappels and were down to the snow. Routine hike down asgard pass, with good plung stepping. We made back to camp as the sun was begining to come up. We had been on the go for 24 hours. We enjoyed plenty of horsecock and water, then began the five mile death march back to the truck. Fun climb and a good time . Greg may have some other views. Route should be in fine condition in a week or two, with most of the snow melted off the route.

Dru, I believe thats Puta.

Rancid Horsecock and sun melted cheese even tastes good when your starving.

Caveman, that guy deffinatly looks a little chossy, and crazy enough to screw with da birds.

watch out for cougars, and be sure to bring plenty of horsecock for snafflehound bait.

The last two pitches are where the money is at. Be ready for some serious thrutching up the 5.9 chimney. The last pitch ends in an overhanging hand crack, but the crux is actually lower on that pitch.

............and horse-cock

Greg, this is my planing period, so I am planning climbing trips.

Just to bring this to the top. Anybody been up Prussik or in the area lately. If so how does the South Face look.

Ray, I will give you a call when I get off work around 3:00-3:20.

If you do not mind climbing some dirt Rocky Butte has a few trad climbs if I remember (nothing note worthy). Broughton has some good ones Gandalfs Grip is a must do. Beacon is your best bet for hard cracks. Not a lot of 5.9 though. Petes Pile (Basalt Columns) across from the Cooper Spur Road in the Mt. Hood area has a lot of 5.8-5.9 trad routes. Pull out is on the right side of the road if your driving north to Hood River, easy to miss. Cool place in the Summer or a side trip on the way to Smith rock or something better in Cali, and you will probably be the only one there. [ 05-17-2002, 12:14 PM: Message edited by: Highlander ]

Right on Charlie, I will dis some Samoans for ya, peace out

Still need a partner

I need a climbing partner this weekend for some cragging in L'worth. If interested send me a pm or e-mail.

WY'East stays "in" longer than Luetys. Check the conditions page or make an attempt.

Oldclimber, just find a back corner in the parking area and nobody will usually mess with you. Your suppose to have one of those sno park passes, but if you finish your climb early in the morning, you will be done before they can give you a ticket. Some of the disadvantages of camping there can be the noise of grooming equip. A lot times the bathroom in the climbers cave is locked in the winter and spring, which can be a problem if you need water or need take care of some business. Do not bother trying the Lodge, its locked up and they will not let you in. Advantage is your close, if your doing any routes on this side of the mountain(and its free).

Depends on the conditions. You should be able to kick steps all the way up w/o crampons. Its not a bad idea to take crampons just in case you encounter an icy section. The route is very low angle and very sloggish.

you can car camp in the parking lot. there are also some snow parks right off the highway.

Dru, it deffinatly was a plus that you showed up when you did or we may have been climbing more dirt and choss. Dan

try the Sportiva nepal tops or extremes. I have a pair of sportiva trango extremes, and they rock, but may be to narrow if you have wide feet. Scarpa makes a good leather boot the thermo cerro torre.

I am relatively new to the Seattle area and I am looking for some climbing partners. I am into all types of climbing: rock, alpine, ice, slogs, etc. I have all weekends open, and can take the occasional weekday off. I also have all of July and August available. I have a reliable 4x4 vehicle and I do'nt mind driving. In the short term I have all of next week open (4/13-4/21). If interested or would like more details on experience drop me a pm or e-mail.

Read "Oregon High" by Jeff Thomas Its a grade II climb. Start at Tilly Jane Cameground, cross the eliot glacier, up the snow dome to cathedral ridge and up to the summit. As any route on Hood go earlier than later in the season to avoid rock fall, and a large schrund can be difficult to cross late in the season (the route is in the sun all day). 10 miles rt.

From I-5 South, take 516 East to Kent, take a right on Central Ave S. for about a half mile. Its on the right side of the road (Liquidation World).