fern

quote: Originally posted by iain: Is this a known issue, so that I can tell Mtn Shop that I'm not screwing up the skins myself? do a google search through the rec.skiing.backcountry archives and you'll find a bunch of posts about hinky Ascension glue. Print them all out and take them to the shop when you return your skins. It worked for me.

your tax dollars maybe, not mine 'cause I am 1) Canadian, 2) poor. nevertheless I stand corrected.

Iridium phone = paperweight that network is dead, I think they started dropping the satellites out of orbit even. Sound quality wasn't so great and you could only send 150 character e-mails or something. Had a built-in GPS which was kind of neat. The Globalstar phones are still OK. I think CHF (maybe ACC??) now has one for Canadian expeditions to borrow for remote trips ... someone else probably knows more than me about it. Andy is good at renting out useless radios. A sat phone is much more reliable but then you miss out on the 8pm radio chat. People all over the Yukon tune in to hear all the expeditions and field camps call in with weather reports or whatever.

whipper dude was in a party of 3 a pitch or so behind Katja and Aaron. I didn't see him fall but I heard him screaming loud and jingle-jangling and saw his belayer reeling in slack like mad. The waves pitch is the one with 1 bolt through some polished pockety slabs up and left to the steep corner, followed by a hand traverse left to a tree. I think buddy fell just below the corner and ended up almost back at the belay. I guess the people we saw were different, the tape-name was "Dan" anyways. Plus we were a party of 3 and I am not a guy, so we aren't the people you saw either ... whew, close call It's fun to go climbing and know most everybody else on the Apron at the same time. Katja probably doesn't like wet rock 'cause she doesn't want to fall on the scary used rope she bought at the MEC gear swap ... tee hee.

Dru, Yanik and I topped out from Sparrow just ahead of Katja (the German girl). We met some guys who didn't look very canadian on Broadway ... perhaps that was you? Do you have a name written on a piece of tape on your helmet? I want to know who was the guy in the yellow helmet _below_ Katja who took a huge slab-slapping whipper on the waves pitch ... wha' happened buddy?

We woke up in the ping-pong ball yesterday behind the Gargoyles. Sounds like the north side was the place to be. Lots of breakable crust around Elfin and Paul Ridge.

quote: Originally posted by sk: That is lame. I totaly agree. However, being a busness owner it does help when people who enjoy our service or product pass along the word. <snip> I enjoyed no service from this company, I was climbing unguided. I will pass along no good word, I threw their sticker away and I'm not going to say their name.

when I returned to my boots after climbing Pigeon Spire W.R. I found them stuffed with stickers for a guiding business website ... lame. what makes you think I want to advertise your guiding business or carry your sticker garbage out ??? funny climbing stickers distract border guards..."Think Less Climb More"... huh huh. Then they don't find the 'apples' you're hiding.

Lynn Hill may be a better climber but I have a bigger rack

quote: Originally posted by Dru: nobody sells spooled spectra WEBBING do they, just Spectra CORD and pre-sewn spectra webbing. The stupid gear store in Canmore (not Valhalla...forget the name) used to sell it for the same price as regular webbing. Same thing the guy at Vertical Reality was selling Gemini for the same price as nylon 5mm. quote: you know like if someone leaves a new sling and rap ring at a station and i come along i usually grab the new sling and leave an old one behind... or just rap off of 6 manky slings. ... or score all the fixed gear and just downclimb.

I said:My trips have shown 120mL/person/day . . . quote: jhamaker says: Way too much. The park reccomends 1pint/person per day (16oz). whatever dude, do you know how to convert oz to mL? according to conversions 120mL is just under 1/2 cup (4 oz), so if anything I give too little, not surprising since as I stated this is the amount I use for lower elevation warm wet conditions.

quote: Originally posted by DOUG LARSON: Hi Fern, could you give me the reference to this study. We study everything there is to know about cliffs. Doug "Threats posed by Rock-Climbers to birds nesting o cliffs in the South Okanagan" Proceedings of a Conference on the Biology and Management of Species and Habitats at Risk. Kamloops B.C. 15-19 February 1999, Volume 1. L.M. Darling Editor, 2000.

I'd be cautious believing the 'scientific consensus' of the IPCC doesn't contain at least an equal dose of politics as data. The reference list is what should matter, go and read all the original papers ... or should I say original *.pdf files since we're tryin' to save trees Incidentally, I recently saw that Howie Richardson has published a paper on the relationship of climbing activity in the Skaha Bluffs to song-bird populations.

FWIW Squamish Rock Guides is probably the priciest squamish guiding outfit ... Crazy Creek chairs and fancy sunglasses don't come cheap after all . There are tons of other ACMG guides in Squamish working independently, ask at Valhalla Pure. If you don't care about ACMG certified instruction you might find even more people willing to take even less of your money, not all are sketchy. Ask at Climb On.If you know clearly what skills you would like to learn you'll be in a better position to find the right instructor and you'll be better off designing your own course rather than signing on with the scheduled courses offered by CWMS. (incidentally, Squamish Rock Guides also have alpine climbing instruction) I took a mountaineering and snow-camping course with CWMS way back in the day, they were fine but I won't spend any more money with them. I learned rock-climbing stuff for free from cool people I met at the right time. I got a full 9hr day of ice-climbing instruction with 3 friends for about $35 each in the Rockies from one of the top ACMG guides a couple of years back. When I see the CWMS top-roping hordes at Marble Canyon I feel pretty lucky for that deal. CWMS has really been growing in recent years and it seems like class sizes and prices have both been going up. Still cheaper than Yamnuska though

quote: Originally posted by max: A few days ago I made a new cordalette and was annoyed at not being able to effectively melt the frayed ends. My solution: P-Tex. My solution: cloth hockey tape. Tape around cord BEFORE you cut it. Cut through the tape. Apply lighter to cut ends and let the tape catch on fire, wave it around for a coupla seconds to even out the melting on the cord, blow it out, peel off the charred tape, TA-DA! better job than even the store can do with the hot-knife.

snowshoes are probably cool, and much less weight. I was just concerned maybe you were thinking of post-holing your way around

you use weird units. how much is 0.9 cups in oz or mL? I don't think you will run out with 3 gallons. Could maybe get by with less if you are efficient with a stove. Use a windscreen and a heat-xchanger. I have not done an expedition to such an altitude. My trips have shown that 90mL/person/day works if running water is available, 120mL/person/day covers melting (wettish spring) snow for all water needs. Add on whatever safety margin you like, if you have too much at the end light a big fire Here's a fun story about glaciers and flammables. A certain glacier researcher found he had a great deal of extra propane at the end of a field season, conveniently there was a small surface stream draining into a moulin nearby, hmm, propane is heavier than air ... so they emptied the propane tank into the moulin, then hiked up along the stream a 'safe' distance, poured a leetle bit of gasoline into the stream and lit it, then plugged their ears and waited ..... WHABOOOM! big fiery geyser coming out of the glacier

you planning to bring skis Ray?

how many days total K? I probably can't spare the time but I can torture myself for a few weeks dreaming that I _might_ be able to ... plus I am not an 'expert' If you are going where you said before (why so secret?) I think I can get you some 1:20000 maps for free, and let me know if you need a car shuttle or anything.

there was a cosmic ray bomb explosionblow ups happenkeep your eyes peeled applehead we're entering a zoneof orbitless planetary kamikaze meteorsthat tend to move with frightening speedand unexpectednessone collisionand you will beapplesauce cadillacs are omnivoresand dinosaurs are herbivoresand I am an interstellar robot destroyer.I tend to move with frightening speedand unexpectednessone collisionand you will beapplesauce

quote: Originally posted by Dru: V i didnt realize that was you. heh, dru rides the small bus. I knew this. nice to meet you people. maybe next time we'll even go climb something together.

the maltodextrin story I got was that because it is a polysaccharide the extra step of chopping off the glucoses means absorption and rate of increase of blood sugar is slower than if you consume just glucose or fructose straight-up. This translates to a longer time before bonking, so if you can get a goo shot every 45min or so your blood sugar should be more even than if you are knocking back raspberry jam instead. my 'source' also figures that those secret magic ingredient trace minerals and junk that the xtreem-baby-food companies tout as the key to the performance of their snake oils are actually just by-products of the corn-starch-to-maltodextrin synthesis process. So if you make your own out of maltodextrin from the homebrew shop you will be picking up some of those mini ingredients anyways. perhaps this is all BS though, I am no xtreem x-spurt. I have also heard from a few athletic type people (martial arts) that consuming refined sugar causes them joint pain

quote: Originally posted by joekania:<snip> Now the weight of the amassing snowpack, on the other hand... ... will do what exactly?? hey, come on, don't leave me hanging...

quote: Originally posted by Dru: Best easy (a2/a2+) long route you are guaranteed nailing on is Edge of Pan. Long approach so no crowds. Bladerunner, overhanging A2 nailing, shorter with less objective danger than Pan Wall, same approach (Kashmir Wall), stays dry in wet weather.

quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: I've been blah blah climbing game for twenty years, and have rarely blah blah blah, of gear failures. Do have an illustrative example of a webbing failure? diddle diddle blah snip Since you ask for an example, here is one for you to pick apart and discount as irrelevant: Ben DeMenech took a factor >>1 fall on Midnight Watch when the webbing on an old style (U cable) junior Camalot sliced through on the cable where the protective plastic sleeve had broken. He did not die nor was seriously injured in the fall. You did not read about this adventure? (see below). quote: Originally posted by freeclimb9: The AAC keeps records of this type of shit. Become informed. Records are only kept when people make reports. People usually only make reports when someone dies or is seriously injured (see above). Maybe ANAM gives no examples of accident resulting from girth hitching to cable, but taking this thread as an example, most of us know better than to use that method in a life-dependent situation. I am not surprised that there are no reports of death due to a technique that basically no-one practices anyways. However Ivan's buddy quite obviously doesn't have the to know what constitutes a life-dependent situation or not, so perhaps he will die and next year we can read all about him in ANAM over a few and