fern

If you have any comments or suggestions about maintenance of the Burton (Sphinx) hut you can send them to Greg Rekken (flamesnflowers at hotmail.com). Hut maintenance materials can only be brought in in winter on skis so it is good to know in advance what might be needed.

quote: Originally posted by Dwayner: Yep, even your grandma has big number potential and it might take here a heck of a lot longer than that Sharma-feller, but with enough rehersal, she's crankin' hard! or she might do it onsight: grand wall grandma [ 08-20-2002, 02:47 PM: Message edited by: fern ]

I know of 2 of these counters in BC Prov parks. No permit system, just counting users. One is on the stairs up the Chief backside trail, the other is on the stairs to the nudist beach

I'm not icegirl

a while ago I was having a bad time of finding the confidence to lead anything, not for any particular reason that I could discern. I was whiny and no fun. The cure I found was not far off what TG says ... I got out and climbed a few easy but runout and chossy alpine routes, new climbs that had no reputation to intimidate me. I had lots of fun and found back some of the joy I get out of climbing. Another thing I found that has given me more confidence in my climbing was just making myself physically stronger and fitter. Here's a question though: Who believes that the two choices in climbing partnership are either swing leads OR ropegun+burden? Can one climber be an equal partner even though they lead 0<=pitches<50% ?

but the '+' is the sandbag loophole. 5.X+ means harder than 5.X, how much harder need not be specified. You can use the same logic to impress people by quite accurately claiming to be a .14- climber

another trick is to pack the caps separately and repaint the bottle. I can't remember where but somewhere I read that on some domestic flights in the himalaya area you are allowed a stove fuel limit of 100 litres ... maybe its bullshit

I've flown many times with empty used MSR bottles and never had one confiscated, even after having one physically inspected and sniffed.

some guides give supercharger .11a though so does that still count as a sandbag? how is this for inconsistent: 1968 guide Exasperator p1=5.5, Banana Peel=5.6, Diedre=5.4, Crap Crags=5.6 1985 guide Exasperator p1=5.9, Banana Peel=5.7, Diedre=5.7+, Crap Crags=5.8+ 1999 guide Exasperator p1 = .10a, Banana Peel=5.8, Diedre=5.8, Crap Crags=5.7 who is sandbagging who I prefer a 2bit binary rating system where the first bit is I can climb it, and the second bit is I would climb it. Thus Banana Peel=11, Freeway=01, Wyoming Sheep Ranch=00 etc.

quote: Originally posted by icegirl: Not sure how well they would work in the alpine environ. Cold (batteries), wet (electronic), icy (slippery), big mittens (small buttons), etc... I have never used these thing, cannot corroborate ... but I know the guys who did the route 'Hoth' on South Tower of Paine Patagonia used radios and I don't think conditions get much more crap than what they had.

quote: Originally posted by Matt: Dru-- I'll tell you which big friend I want-- that one in the Patagonia "committed to the core" add where Royal Robins (or some old school Yosemite climber) is hanging out in J-Tree with a cam the size of a small umbrella. That is a cam I want. Allen Steck ... those cams look home-made, there's your cheap solution. Climb On Equipment in Squampton has a #6 friend in stock ... it's bigger than my head. I heard they're gonna come out with a #7 too, you could jack your car up with it!

#7 tricam

if the price of the WC Friends is acceptable to you (especially bigger rigid friends) then those would be my recommendation over the DMMs. I have had a few instances of DMMs getting kinda stuck, which I attribute to the aforementioned sucky expansion range. Plus the U cables get a little bent and mess the action. I dunno what you consider 'big' but they don't come bigger than a #4 which is barely bigger than fist sized.

quote: Originally posted by Dru: They dont bill us yet This is not 100% true, it depends whose helicopter picks you up and who called it. If it is an ambulance helicopter you might get a bill, mine was for $53. I thought about joining AAC for the recue insurance coverage prior to my trip to south america but decided that the $75/$5000 calculation was not value since $5000 won't go very far when helicopters are involved anyways.

says they'll you $250 to write an obituary ... man if I ever have to write an obituary I don't think I wanna get paid for it ... I guess that's standard magazine practice, but still morbid.

is it really improv when that's the designed function?

I'm surprised you didn't use a pin stack to break the spare tire chain

quote: Originally posted by moonchild: <snip a bunch of blah blah> An amusing post, eric. his name is erik, thanks for noticing

3 additional notes to mattp's handy summary quote: Originally posted by mattp: Pros: <snip> do not flutter (gate does not open due to vibrations during a fall) The typical causes of gate flutter are the rope running through the 'biner as the slack comes out of the system in a fall, and the spine of the biner getting struck on the rock as the 'draw gets flipped around by the rope (eg. pulling up slack to clip). But in addition really violent gate flutter can be caused by the stitches ripping out on a screamer ... bad time to have the gate open Another pro (in my experience) is that wiregates don't ice up badly. quote: Originally posted by mattp: Cons: aggressive hook on gatestock catches on things (e.g., not as convenient for racking stoppers) <snip> DMM makes a wiregate keylock biner (cheaper than BD neutrinos). Maybe other manufacturers as well. Maybe the prisoners will start making these too?

quote: Originally posted by Cpt.Caveman: What to do next Mt.Louis! don't forget your helmets

Hotwire Questions and Answers by Chris Harmston

I was hiking counterclockwise on a circuit trail most people hike clockwise and encountered a completely baffled looking person who said 'You're doing it backwards'. I overheard a guy enthusiastically telling his friends how the Split Pillar on the Grand Wall waves back and forth in the wind.

watch the landings ... there's no toilets nearby for the convenience of those 500 watersporters

imagine what that number would be if all his avatar posts got counted in too

tried one more peak in the Cordillera Blanca ... got to 200m from summit, not that close I guess, but the glacier was very broken and tedious and the ice that we brought screws for turned out to be snow that we didn´t have so many pickets for. No more snow and ice, I´m tired of being cold in the tropics. Bring on the rockclimbing. I´ll be home soon and probably give a little slideshow in Squamish mid=August so if anyone wants to see pictures PM me and I´ll let you know details ... maybe I will even invite Dru