fern

We were there the week after this TR and also did the Beckey-Chouinard. We had 1 or 2 false starts so had some time to strategerize and ultimately decided based on the conditions to go with real boots (eg. trango style) but no crampons or ice axe (left axes at Bboo-SP Col) which I think was lighter overall. There was snow right to the bivy boulder. We also got beta that there was water right at the base of the route so only carried about 1/2 liter - turned out that there wasn't any running water, but we smashed some icechunks into the dromedary and they melted through the day. Something to consider for future season where the conditions may be similar.

Thanks for the TR. The camping limit is actually 14 days total but 7 days consecutive, so if you pop over to East Creek for 1 night after 7 days then you can come back into the park for another 7 days. Also WRT rappelling the East Face of Bugaboo. This would be a bad choice if anyone is above you making the N-S summit traverse. Fellows behind us managed to knock some very large blocks off and chopped their own ropes on one of the short rappels. Don't underestimate people's ability to find and dislodge loose rocks, and then send them directly towards you. The Bugaboos are busy enough that this happens in the craziest and most unexpected locations, I am guilty of strafing parties below myself. My personal choice would be to rap the NE Ridge itself if I went up again, even at the expense of sacrificing a dozen nuts and tat. The Kain Route is a shitpile that I have no desire to ever set foot on again.

Starbucks Via Italian Roast. It is instant therefore lightweight and easy, but I still get to be a yuppy paying too much for coffee. Win-win!

scarpa infernos were my best ever but gave me a bone spur on the heel. I remember high on Springbok Arete I took to beating my head against the wall at the belay to distract from the pain in my feet. I liked the Red Chili spirits too (high five to billcoe), but not easy to find in Canada and I am not going to order unknown shoes on teh interwebs. I have a pair of Scarpa Technos that I have tried very hard to like and I just don't - I think that they failed to downscale the boardy midsole to a smaller shoes size or something - they are stiff in a bad way...but I can see that they might work well on bigger dogs. Same deal with lots of ice/mountain boots - much stiffer in the small/womens sizes than in the average men's size range. Mythos have never let me down or surprised me (except in how quickly they wear out) - alas my $50 online source has dried up ...

you can easily bolt the rockrings to a board if you want the rigid thing. But probably would not want to saw a hangboard in half to make the danglers.

depends a bit where you are going and what you are tackling. Some things in Fitzroy area you can approach with just tennies. Some rock things you rap the line, so just leave boots at the base, can be heavier. Obviously the steeper ice and neve lines will need ice boots. It's nowhere near as cold as ice-climbing in the PNW and the approaches are long, steep and often loose.

I agree with the top hook/horn thing being a nice feature. Can I clip my Quarks in and out with 1 hand too? $15 seems like a good price to me. I would buy 3.

I've used the 2xJumar above Gri-gri w/ no backup knot system. Twas many years ago...but I do not remember feeding problems maybe depends on angle and my wall was steep. Also lower-outs were dreamy and easy. I do not think the shunt or microcender would be as dreamy for the lowerouts. (maybe they aren't even called lowerouts? I mean like when you are cleaning a roof or traverse and you push a rope bight through a loop of tat that is left behind then lower off rather than cutting loose on a pendulum?)

for right now for a short trip I would recommend renting a guidebook from Valhalla Pure ($5/day used to be). The most recent McLane guide is fairly comprehensive, pricy, and lacking in some info that some appreciate (approaches, descents and gear listings). The Bourdon guide is very pretty with lots of nice topos and extra details, but is a Select guide and is currently being updated for a new edition soon - maybe worth holding off the purchase until then.

two others for your consideration: MEC Alpinelite 30 MEC Genie 30 DSL both comparatively inexpensive, but not full featured. I don't think the lids remove on either. Genie doesn't have a spindrift collar. I used the Genie pretty extensively recently and found the new version carries much more comfortably than the old Serratus version, although the sizing is different now and the "standard" length no longer fits me, too big sadly (5'2"). The fabric probably won't stand for hauling or extensive chimneying. No personal experience with the Crux packs, but I was talking to a UK climber recently who had one and he complained that the durability was lacking - weak stitching and fragile buckles.

I disagree. The old beacon could be received by the older beacons which range in age from about 6yr to 3yrs old, and could itself receive all the beacons old and new. It was the newest beacon in the newest mode that failed to find all the signals. The lack of reliability is in the new technology.

Has anyone played around and encountered this behaviour? We were working with a brand new out of the box Barryvox Pulse as the search beacon, with 2 old Ortovox F1s and an older model Barryvox as the multiple burial units. In digital search mode the Pulse showed zero indication of even receiving one of the F1 units. Even standing right on top of the F1. Checking all other permutations of the other units as search beacon we could find that F1 just fine, and with the Pulse switched to analog mode we could detect it too. So the only problem was with the Barryvox Pulse in standard digital mode. I am speculating that the F1 has drifted a little bit off of the 457kHz frequency, and that the Pulse is set to discriminate the frequency too tightly? It is a bit creepy though, both in terms of feeling like this new beacon is unreliable, as well as worry for my friend who regularily skis with that F1.

not much eccentric in a rower either. I'm not saying that all these other "cardio" efforts (swimming biking rowing) are a waste of time in prepping for a big mountaineering day. There may be better ways (more time efficient and sport specific), there's definitely worse ways (no training at all). I'm just saying that if that's all you do, don't be surprised if your legs get sore on the descent. And if you add in some training that more closely matches the downhill, constant deceleration, action of descending, then that part of your adventure will be more enjoyable too.

descents work you over because of the eccentric action of your legs (deceleration under load). Riding a bike has zero eccentric component, same with regular stairmasters and ellipticals, swimming has zero. Squats start with an eccentric action (lowering your butt slower than gravity). Jumping (on a box, broad jumps, whatever) are eccentric at the moment you land. Walking DOWN stairs. I like squats. http://www.exrx.net/Kinesiology/Squats.html

as of January MEC has a new climbing hardware buyer who actually climbs ice. exciting times It won't help much with the desk staff though, who not only don't know anything about ice-climbing, but also are incapable of reading hang-tags. I find the most successful tactic has been to go to the desk and ask them to bring out every single pick they have in inventory, and search through yourself to find what you need.

There is a suite in the 2nd floor corner of the Mile 0 with 3 beds in 2 rooms plus kitchenette. We got it last year at the same price as a regular room (of course it was AFTER all our friends had already booked in ). At Mile 0 the housekeeping staff may come in and turn off the heat in the middle of the day - sucks when you are trying to dry gear on a multi-day trip, or just want to come back to a warm room. If you are going to be climbing mainly at Marble Canyon / O-Jack etc. consider staying in Cache Creek. The Sandman Inn there is good enough for J-Lo .I stayed at the Tumbleweed once and it was cheap and quiet. No matter where you stay though the restaurant options are dire.

Lets try to keep the discussion on track here: Weight loss/maintenance ideas and support for those who are NOT FULLY MOBILE. i.e. Back injury, major multi-joint trauma etc. i.e. No biking, no MMA, no running, no weights, no climbing

This thread is derailed. Probably I should have kept a better eye on it, but I didn't. So now I am going to lock it.

I dunno how hard she climbs but Mary Conover is an octogenarian badass grandma and she has this to say about pukulating after exercise: http://www.crossfitsantacruz.com/crossfit_santa_cruz/exercise-induced-nausea-and-vomiting.html

these places sell them http://www.ironwoodyfitness.com/ http://www.jumpstretch.com/ http://store.roguefitness.com mcmastercarr.com sells "pallet bands" which are similar medical supply places might sell surgical tubing which can also work especially at lower resistances like for rehab work bicycle inner tube?

25-15-9 is not CrossFit... you are obviously a poser everyone ELITE enough to be a REAL crossfitter knows it is *21* - 15 - 9 jeesh ... there should be some sort of quality control on this ...

Mike's Hard in Canada is made with Vodka rather than Malt Liquor

Weak as I am right now I can do probably max 3 strict pullups, and 1 ring dip (1 in a row!!) but I can still do a barely kipped ring muscle-up. My muscle-up and ring-dip numbers have always been about the same. UW_C is right it is a technique thing on the rings, plus some shoulder flexibility. The necessary incremental strength over independent pullups and dips is minimal.

put a towel on the floor of your kitchen in front of the sink and on the floor of your bathroom in front of the potty and anywhere else handy. Everytime you go #2 or wash your dishes take your shoes off and practice scrunching the towel up using your toes - alternate feet. You can make it harder by weighting down the far end of the towel (eg. with the shoes you just took off) and pull that weight towards you by scrunching up the towel. Something about Superfeet that I have found, is that you need to try lots of different sizes - not in a shoe just stand on them on the ground, to find the ones that have an arch that feels best for your foot - it may not be your actual shoe size. I wear sz7 womens but my Superfeet in my ski boots are chopped down sz 9.5

If you can get someone to spot you then you might find it easier to follow these progressions. Basically you have 2 variables you can control for progression: Leverage and Range of Motion. What you are doing now (holding the F-L in a tuck and trying to extend your legs) is working the leverage progression. The key thing here is to maintain a tight hollow body position at all time (suck your ribs down to your pelvis with no break at the hip) and straight arms. Doing pullups in a tucked front-lever has zero relevance to holding a full front lever. In addition to extending your legs straight out one at a time you can vary the leverage by extending them both out into a straddle. To work the range of motion progression you need to invert yourself in a full extended hollow position. (Hang - Roll your body up in a tuck, knees to chest, lift the hips right over the shoulders with tucked knees to chest, extend the legs to hollow). Then with straight arms slowly lower you legs away from the bar(or rings) to whatever is your limit and then return back up to vertical invert. This is a good one to do with a spotter as they can help you really find your limit and get back out of it. Your arms should not bend. If you bend your arms then you are just reducing the leverage to compensate and you are short-circuiting the progression you are trying to train. Another option I have seen described by some coaches that I think know their stuff, is to lower from the invert as slowly as you can until you lose it and fall down - crash mat below. I am not super keen on this idea as I think the potential for shoulder overuse and injury is pretty high. But totally up to you if you want to try it - have an ice bath ready for your lats the next day.