DCramer

I have two sets of two tickets for tonights game that I will not be using. If anyone wants them, they can have them - they just have to be picked up in N Seattle after I get home from work. I am not sure where the seats are in the Arena.

I "think" this: Is this: With a boat you will have no problem finding this cliff. I forget what name he gives it in his guide. For years we called it the Big Kahuna. I was taken there in the late '80's and the area already had a history.

Off - I completely agree with you regarding the Fixe anchors. Many of the anchors at Vantage (and 38/Si for that matter) use a sandwich of 4-5 Washers|Chain|4-5 washers. No hangers are used -I assume as a cost cutting measure. One problem with this setup is that it’s a pain to replace the chain. With the rapide setup you just clip off to the hanger and replace the chain. With this setup you completely loose the anchor while upgrading the chain. Some of the anchors appear to use wedge anchors. In that case it is (at least in theory) a fairly simple matter of removing the nut and replacing the washer-chain-washer sandwich. Other anchors appear to use five piece bolts. My experience on some west side slabs it that is not uncommon for the five piece anchors to loose their ability to be replaced. I was wondering if this has been a problem at Vantage. I was also curious about what length bolts were used. I just planned on throwing a few pieces of chain in my pack next time I go there but didn't want to create a big mess that I couldn't clean up without a drill.

I guess the answer is no.

Bringing this back to the top by noting that the date is truly auspicious as the FA of the Nose ended on a 12 November.

I received a bunch of PMs and it looks like the first guy will take them. If for some reason he flakes out I'll move down the list. Honestly, I am surprised at how many people want old ropes. Thanks.

Every so often I see a post asking for old ropes, so before I threw these out I thought I'd make this post. I have three or four old ropes that are about to go in the trash. PM if wanted. I am in North Seattle.

I was out at Vantage last weekend and remembered how I had questions about some of the anchors there. In particular the anchors without hangers using what looks like a Powers 5 piece bolt. Any experiences replacing the chain with this type of anchor? Some newer anchors used the Fixe horizontal hangers w/ ring. These were placed side by side which seems perfect for maximizing wear.

whats the answer?

Check out the Pulpit

Ya good point. It's brown fabric with leather arms. Some sun bleaching and staining on arms. Only fabric mess up is on a seat where a seam is splitting but you can't see that. Basically its just had 10 years of kids. I have owned far worse. Maybe I should post a pic.

Free beat up couch. Save me a trip to the dump and I'll throw in beat up chair as well!

The funny thing was last Saturday I was talking about this with a friend. The bolts are not “new.” In fact they pre-date cc.com. Back while compiling Sky Valley Rock I was told that some people wanted to turn the Fun Forest into a sport area. In order to spread the word about the place as a TR/lead area I decided to put it in SVR. As it turns out it was too little too late. Shortly after SVR came out I was shown a small hand drawn guide to new routes along I-90. One of the areas unknown to me was “Exit 42” which held several new routes. Later I was a bit surprised to discover an old area had been renamed and routes renamed and bolted. I went out once with the intention of removing the bolts but all I had was a crappy crescent wrench which wasn’t up to the task. The line in the second picture is The Mystical Garden of Free Wheeling Animals. A variation leading left to Wild Mouse has been bolted as well. The Pillar was originally TR’d but the main face (not the chimney) has been bolted for years and is actually a good route. I think a close look would reveal some old chopped studs. The chimney route to the left was bolted by the same group that bolted the Mystical Garden. Some old routes at the Fun Forest utilized bots. For example, Vulcan Death Group climbs past an ancient bolt ladder and the slab around to the left has a few scattered about. The area has some of the best cracks in Washington.

I can't take any credit for this clean-up. I will always accept beers however. Thanks for the work!

Great Fucking post! Jim use to say the same thing to me except it was 5.11 then! Climbing standards are much higher than they were 30 years ago. EG: When first freed both Japanese Gardens and Sloe Children were rarely climbed. Now there is a line every weekend. Tim - Did you ever hook up with Dick? I haven't heard from him in a while and was wondering what he was up to.

OK, I’ll be the first to admit trying to get something going while saying I have to stay on the ground is lame BUT I am surprised there is so little desire to give the area a full check-up and toss off the big hunks. One person said they would be up for Sunday. Any other volunteers? Arch? The mountains will be wet!

I agree something should be done. The next time I can get out there is next weekend but I'll have two young kids in tow so I'd have to stay on the ground. That said any work will be a big project closing off a wide area of the cliff. If there is enough interest (PM me), I'd be happy to talk to the Parks Dept, bring some drinks and help coordinate from the ground.

The recent rockfall in the Country are above Zoom has been the subject of a previous thread BUTyesterday I while checking out the area I saw lots of new chalk on routes directly below here => Apologies for the poor photo quality but the large rocks ready to leap off the cliff should still be easy to see. I would think twice about climbing any of the routes around Zoom

Kevbone - I do not believe that the Access Fund ever tried to dictate climbing policy at WA State Parks. The Access Fund did try to increase climber participation during State Parks drive to begin to manage climbing on its property. An umbrella climbing policy was devleoped and individual parks were encouraged to develop area specific climbing management plans. The direct intent of this structure is to ensure that local needs are met. This structure was not the result of efforts by Beacon Rock activists, but rather it was the overwhelming desire of all of the participants during the creation of the umbrella policy. As far as the Access Fund wanting to bolt the SE Corner so that sport climbers could climb it, I find that highly improbable. Why don't you send the regional rep an email and ask him directly about it and report back?

If you were going to be in up near the top, I was going to ask you to look for something. You might consider the climbing the first few pitches of Online or the corners to its left and then scooting over to Tombstone Ledge. Once there take a look at the Fly as it is not as runout as the average Static Point route. (if my memory serves me correctly) There is a really good 5.10 you can TR from the anchor.

If I remember correctly the trail up the hill from the road starts near some old culvert material. What route are you planning on climbing?

If you're taking suggestions for cleaning projects => The Shaft routes could use some work!

Sorry I missed this yesterday. Just a couple of things I thought I’d clarify. 1) I was much less interested about the status of the route or even climbing with Fender than I was in whether or not he would be willing to jump off the route upon my request. Andyf (who I have known for about 20 years) and Beckey’s (who I have known of for about the past 35 years) judgments do make me inclined to think his opinion is in error. Just after Fender called me a Dick I received a PM which contained the following: My response: 2) I receive little shit about routes I have put up, but do end up in too many discussions about all kinds of routes despite having nothing to do with their FA. On a different subject: I once belayed someone up the route shown in Weekend Climber’s photo as an end of the day tick. The route ends shortly out of the frame. I wasn’t inspired to follow it. Thanks for letting me have the last word!

Consider: 1) Beckey thought bolts were needed on Straight Street 2) A few people I spoke to who have climbed Perils thought would be pretty bold with only the last two bolts.. Then consider: For whatever reason I do not believe that anyone will take me up on my offer although clear assertions were about needed only zero bolts (Straight Street) and at most the last two bolts (Perils) My conclusion is that spray is pretty easy on cc.com. Facts are often lost in the dog pile. For example a few weeks ago someone asked who place some bolts on a certain route at Index. A cc.comer posted incorrect info. I sent him an email letting him know that and stating the correct bolter. He never went back to change his answer although he might have thought I was a Dick for sending him the pm. Alex posted about the “ethic” at Static and was simply incorrect about what that ethic was. I am not saying I am always right and they are always wrong but I am suggesting that people should be in a little less of an attack mode around here. Cheers,

As would Straight Street...if I remember correctly. No. there is a splitter crack full of dirt and bushes up the middle of the lower slab. There are a couple of places cleared for holds. Up higher the crack in the dihedral peters out for about 10 feet, then comes back at fingers. I think I "called you out" with regard to the route not being scary w/o bolts. Thus my not wanting to clean off the bottom. Bill - I am sure I am fatter than you and my balding is catching up. Plus I am still rehabing from biceps reattachment so I am sure I am slower and weaker! I'd go climbing with you sometime my current frequency of getting out is once per month! The only reason I entered the fray is people seemed to be jumping all over the guys who put these routes up and some of shit being said seemed not so plausible. I have entered the fray here many times and argued with people about routes I put up. Been blamed for stuff I havent done. It really doesn't mean that much to me. In this thread specific people are being slammed. Consequently, I think people posting here ought to be willing to back up what they say espescially when they go out of their way to say it. If they are right more power to them. If not..... Anyway if you put up enough routes people can find examples of pretty much every screw up possible.