Jarred_Jackman

Not to tell you how to do it, but if you're really looking for a great experience, buy a copy of freedom of the hills, read it, find some people who climb, and get a group of buddies together and climb Baker. It's not that technically challenging, and it's not that long, so you should be fine if you're in reasonably decent shape. If you do go with Madness ask for Mark Ryman, he's a great guy! Any sunny day during the summer is a good day for Baker.

Damn did I mention I'm a serial killer? Nobody out there wants to get away and into the sunny land of trad routes for a week? come on!

Anyone want to head down for a week in late April early May. I'm in Sun Valley area of Idaho and could meet someone down by Twin Falls and carpool from there. I want to do trad routes, lots of them! I can lead 5.10 trad and probably a little harder down there, ratings seem a little soft. let me know Jarred

Mike Thanks, I don't expect a play by play of the route. I know it changes on a dime. I was mostly wondering about the late season set up and if that would still be the case, as you mentioned. I thought we might not have gotten enough snow, which might push Sept into June, which might mean that in Sept I might just find a lot of rocky crap! I imagine that route doesn't hold a lot of excess topical snow though so maybe a low snow year doesn't matter as much for those steeper routes, maybe they're just icefests in the late summer no matter what. This is good as I would like to do it later rather than sooner. Thanks for the post. Hope life in Longmire is still good. Jarred

Does anyone have an image of this area that is recent? Or Mike, have you been over there. I have been thinking about this face for awhile and want to combine the lower portion of the Icefall route, with the upper portion of the Mowich Face route. Although I really want to do this route (combination rather) I don't want to do it in crappy conditions. If anybody has decent route info I would appreciate it. Thanks Jarred PS, I would just go check it out, but I live in Idaho now and don't want to drive 12 hours for a face that isn't in decent shape.

Where do you live? I haven't been recently, but I live in the Sun Valley area and some of my buddies up here said that it was really muddy, and I think there's still probably some snow in the shady areas. Call down there and talk to Brad, the climbing ranger. Jarred

Any thoughts on the Mowich Face routes (icefall and north route). If I were wanting them to be nicely setup (better frontpointing, drier rock) would you say this would be a good time, or later season as many seasons seem to be, or does this year just not look as good for these routes? thanks to anybody with info Jarred

I live about an hour from the Perch. If you want to call me up when you are planning to come out feel free. I plan on going up there a bunch this summer as I just moved out last fall and haven't climbed it yet. All the info you'll need is available at the Elephant's Perch gear shop in Ketchum. Jarred

Thanks, I know it's not super expensive, but everything counts. thanks to those with the helpful input. Also, the Alpinist Mag does B-Team grants for anyone interested.

I'm wanting to climb the Harvard route on Huntington and I need more money to make the trip happen. Does anybody out there have info regarding good grants for folks not doing the gnarly first ascents, but still pushing personal limits, or just a good lead on some grants or places to find cash for climbing (besides working, which I'm doing already) in general. thanks Jarred

SOLD

So nobody wants to park for cheap at Smith or other Oregon State parks 'til April, weird. Honestly, I'll mail you the pass, it's no good to me, I just want someone to get some use out of it. One guy offered but didn't follow with an address. Either you get to use it, or it's trash! let me know Jarred

Smith Rock parking pass good 'til April of 2005. Goes to the highest bidder. I'll check this in a couple days. PM me with your address and your price and I'll mail the thing to someone in a few days. I'm not expecting much out of this. I bought it as a two year pass and ended up moving to ID. take care Jarred

I'm thinking of buying one of these. I would use it for crag climbing, alpine in conjungtion (sp) with solo moves as well, and also some aid. I can get it for $135 so it's not the full retail investment. Sounds like a great tool, my only concern is the clove hitch the rope ties in with, can the device actually self-feed with that clove in it? If a person makes sporadic moves as is often the case with various climbing moves is it going to lock up and prevent the move, does the climber have to climb quite slowly? Who has used this and what do you all think? Thanks Jarred

Yo, I'm living in Fairfield Idaho now, not too far from the Sawtooths. I'm working at the Elephant's Perch so I kind of have flex in my schedule. Always looking for climbing partners. Contact me if you're in the area and wanting to climb either alpine (sawtooths) or crag (City of Rocks, northern Utah, Massacre Wall, etc.) Where are all the Idaho climbers, we need a forum on this thing. take care Jarred

Think about doing the complete N Ridge, it's really rewarding, you get a bivy on the ridge, and then you don't have to head back in a bunch of times to finish a route you only did part of the first time. It's really worth the extra effort to do the whole thing. You get a lot more worthwhile climbing. Great alpine experience!

I don't know how you feel about basalt, but in Twin Falls there is a place called Duerkey's Lake (sp) and it's unlike any other basalt I've ever seen. It's overhung in places, pocketed, much different than the traditional splitter cracks, stair step jugs, or lava pockets at Vantage. I think it's totally worth a look. I will go back many times.

I don't know how new you are but the North Face is a very memorable quality route and isn't all that technical, you should give it some thought.

Actually it took us 2 hours and 20 minutes to the saddle, under an hour to the ridge, and we were on the ridge proper after a quick 5-10 minutes cruise up some fun terrain. I don't think we're in great shape, just descent, we don't work out or anything, don't run, so if you're heading up I would say you could make it to the ridge in less than four hours (it's packed the whole way thanks for snow cats).

Fuck god, religion is a lie, it was a joke in regards to the dipshit who told me I should go up the Hogsback, what a wanker. If you think I'm religious then you may need to wake up, this site is so full of bullshit I can't believe anybody would actually believe something that is written. Maybe I'm the one with the hook in my mouth and you two are reeling me in, who knows. Definitely funny though that you seemed to think I would actually entertain the thought that there is some sort of all powerful being in the world. Fuck that unrational notion.

Thanks for the tip, I tried that route but it seemed too serious for me. I don't like to enter the danger zone and I just wasn't feeling like the hogsback was the route for me. There's always next time though right? Keep climbing, keep living, keep the faith and the good Lord will protect the righteous!!!

Well, six people including myself attempted Yocum yesterday, needless to say none made it very far. The weather was warm, the rime was dry and crumbly as only rime seems to be, and the first gendarme was downright scary. Anyhow, I think Tim and Karsten might have a better story regarding retreat, their's took a little while. All, in all, a great day on Hood, beautiful morning, and great snow conditions for routes like the Sandy and Leuthold's.

Anybody have an idea on the summit time for Yocum. I know this is an open ended conditions based questions. I'm not looking for perfection, just a ballpark figure of how many hours from the lot, assuming the folks climbing are in decent shape and move well together. take care

For a bag that doesn't have some sort of eater repellent or water proof shell on it, would DWR work very well. What are some suggestions for coating a bag with a substance that will do it's best to keep out dew, light spin drift, that type of stuff, Im' not looking to have it stand up to a deluge. thanks Jarred

The MSRs have a very small burning circle if you look at the water that boils and the water closer to the outside of the pot, I have a gigapower and the burning circle is dispersed much better. It's a little more money but it is much more efficient. I have it wired to a teapot and I put a hole in the teapot handle so the whole system can hang and when I pour the stove still sticks to the pot, it's almost impossible to spill and everything fits back inside the teapot, except the canister. Talk to the folks at Second Ascent if you're in Seattle.