jhamaker

Yeah, fit is super imprtant. I use thermo fit liners or some such in various boots - and there are always SuperGaitors or overboots.

Total eye candy. Some thought seems to have been given to the effect of shadows on the faces for the pictures. A R, X rating would be nice. My only beef - no info on where the bolted convenience anchors are - a serious need to know if you are loosing daylight and are thinking of topping out, or rapping down. Ginger Cracks, for example, has convenience anchors for the first 5? of the 7? pitches. I seem to have taken to making color photocopies of the rts I think I'll do in the new book, but aways carry Urioste w/ me for add'l info and for when I change my mind on the route I want to climb.

I like the Cascade Designs Ridge-Rest. If I'm more woried about bulk than weight, I carry an 1/8" Ensolite from Seattle Fabric w/ a 3/4 lenth thermorest on top.

I've used my 60Mx8.3? Beal Icelines to death the last few yrs. Negatives: I've experienced sheath slippage w/ heavy people rapping and trying to prussick. Sheath is already showing abraided/cut strands. When new and slick w/ Silicon, I had to buy a smaller rope belay/rappel device. ATC's and Reversos were too fast. I even had one fellow rap too fast and hit the ground. Now they are a bit fuzzy and work great w/ the Baugette, Gi-Gi, Reversino, BC Guide, and OP B-52. Heavy people also notice a lot of rope streatch and say it's like rappeling on a bunge cord. I've heard of folks streatchig a rap, anchoring in, then letting go of the ropes as they spring short and out of reach. Positives: I've used them to death. I like having 60's in places like Red Rocks where you can often link pitches or rappels. Many alpine routes climb rap lines where there is a pre-set anchor every 25M. Fold a 60M in half, and you've got a super-safe system. Since your pitches are short - less slings and gear to haul up - often comes to the less weight as if you were climbing on one 50M single. One strand is also great for glaciers. I'm cutting the soft ends off. They will be 50M and I'll save weight. I'll use them for alpine routes and most everywhere else (e.g. Darrington) where the standard is the standard 50M or less between rappels. I'm buying some more durrable half-ropes. The Eidelwies Sharps are heavier and safer too. I'll use them for places where weight is not so much an issue (short 2hr approaches like Darrington and Red Rocks) and for places where all those sharp edges and loose blocks make me nervous (most of WA, esp Goosegg. Rem when using halfs as twins that the forces involved on a fall are much greater. I've also heard that if you stich between half and twin technique on one pitch that there is a danger of the ropes whipping through the biners at different rates and melting against eachother.

P.S. I hope to head up to the AK range next April- June. Most anything *but* the W Buttress. If you are set on the W Butt but would like to do other things too, I could dovetail a trip w/ yours.

Yes. Gib Chute/Nisqualy side stuff. Gotta be ready to go though when a weather window opens.

I've got a partner until Sat the 17th, then hiking or . . . climbing grade III's and IV's. I lead up to 5.10-A1. Grab me in the camp ground at the camouflage hoop tent (early winters) or call two zero six 8l9-fivefive6l.

Funny you should post now, as I'm sorting pics for *my* calendar for Christmass presents.

A bit more on the way would be Marmott's satelite in Tacoma, "Backpacker's Supply" Backpackers Supply www.marmotmountain.com 5206 S Tacoma Way Tacoma, WA 98409 (253) 472-4402

P.M. sent

I've not been to City of Rks. Sounds like fun If it is not freezing durring the day. I love to lead easy 5.10's. P.M. me if you wanna partner with me and prabably ride down w/ Woodchips. My minivan gets about 30MPG and has more room.

Time to play the old rain-dodge! I'm free untill mid/late Oct. I'm in Tacoma and up to most anything in the mountains.

I'm doing something Sat-Mon. Probably Mt. Adams Lyman Gl. PM me before Fri night if interested, lv a #

Bannana Boat - only stuff that does not run into my eyes but still works w/o beeing too greasy. Bannana Boat for Kids does not sting even if applied to the underside of the eyelid.

So, what pomminence rule was used for the Mountaineers 1000' prominence list? 1mi? 5mi? 25mi from the summit? We've got some ridges that go on for miles!

Location accuracy is often better than 100M - but usually only available to some 911 operaters in some cities and only if you have cell coverage and a clear view of the sky durring a full moon. I know of a rescue off of McClellan's Butte last yr (yes, right on I-90 just out of N Bend, WA) and 911 was unable to find the location. Seriously, if you find a cell phone that can give you good location accuracy when there is no cell coverage, let me know.

Been meaning to get into the Valhallas. Drop me a pm if interested.

Yummy!

Raining in Valdeze this wk-end. Turnagain Arm/Henderson Bay too far a drive (for two consecutive wk-ends says Pierre), so find this in the White Mtns of Ak. A hut hike along a ridge connecting Table Mtn and Mt. Pinnel.

I can't picture the bolt design used in Westward Ho. Would backing the nut off - flush w/ the bolt, then re-hammering the bolt, then tightening the nut be good or bad? What size wrench do I need for the nuts?

I thought that I posted? I love my Camelback now that I put a worm-gear clamp on the nipple. Sliced mine once w/ a knife - repaired w/ a bike tire patch kit. The o-ring drips if not tightened nicely. My Cammelbacks, however, have survived some realy long chimneys - Bulletheads, Squamish, and Epinephrine, RR come to mind.

Ha! Annother convert to Squamish. I can second most of the above reccomendations. Anything on the Lower Apron is good. I know you like off-widths, I think there are some in the Bulletheads? Don't forget the odd rt at the falls. Any trouble with construction between Squamish and B-ham?

DNR has the state mapped out for public lands. Maps for sale in Olympia or by mail.

I liked it. Good solo rt if you wanna get near the summit. Go late enough and all the snowbridges will be melted out on the summit plateau - no nasty surprises.

>>Brock & McMillen guide recommends rapping Dogma<< Question. Would a regular pair of 50M ropes work for you rt and the Dogma rappell?