carolyn

Here is the pic. Warning!

I got a picture of my bloody finger today after falling off a crack. Left a good portion of my skin on the climb. There might be a rock in the background. WHat about that ice axe photo? I think I might have it book marked somewhere....yuck!

I will be down there that weekend and looking for folks to climb with. Might still need a ride from Pdx. Would love to get out there on Thursday eve to get a head start on some climbing. I agree with snoboy...two parties are better than one!

Everything is brown over here in MN. Poor corn, it all looks so sad. Send rain ASAP! (and cooler air) Actually, its pretty scary in the northern parts of the state. The boundary waters area has been waiting for an opportunity like this to burn. All it takes is one person w/a little bit of bad luck to break the fire ban and we will have an enormous fire on our hands.

I ran into the guide at a local crag today. I introduced myself. Had I known he would be out there I would have brought it with. I tried to set a time and place to meet with him. He kept coming up with excuses as to why he couldnt meet me I would like to just get rid of this rope..

Funny story I heard today, along this subject. A friend of mine was up climbing in the Needles. He found a stopper on a route that a guided group had just been near. When they met up he asked her, "did you leave this stopper behind?" Guide looks thru her rack, takes it out of his hand and says, "no, but I could use another one of those" and walks away.

Stefan, Just to clarify the situation. We were setting up where they were tearing down in a cragging area at a State Park. THeir rope was in the way while we were setting up. Knowing the history of the guide, I didnt touch the rope (I thought that might be rude) nor did I want to talk with him (because I knew he would be rude). I left it untouched until it was REALLy in our way, then I moved it out of the way and put it about 5 feet from where he was standing. We lowered off the climb. When we returned, he was gone. I coiled the rope and put it out of the way where people wouldnt step on it. I figured he would come back for it. Four hours later, no one showed up for the rope. The guide brought the group up for the DAY. He was returning back to the cities (a 4 hr drive) from the crag. At this point it was obvious he was NOT coming back for it. In fact he was probably clueless to the fact it was missing (which was proven in my conversation with him today). I took the rope. If I hadnt its guaranteed another climber would have...not even knowing who it belonged to...and kept it. It sounded fine and dandy to keep the rope until I thought about it more. Yes, I was "on the fence" with my decision. Ive never been confronted with a situation like this while climbing (the difference between booty and flat out stealing). I threw the question out to you all because I was curious what others would do. Most of you confirmed what my consciensce was telling me. I called the guy up and he didnt even realize he was missing it. Wouldnt even admit to it when it seemed like a slight possibility. I dont think taking the rope was wrong. I think it wound up in better hands than had we left it at the crag. I dont think being on the fence with a decision is wrong either. Its good to be put in situations where you can test your integrity. The End

For my own personal sanity I'm just going to believe that you are trolling.

Bug, you have the winning response! Figger8, you are dead on. Thanks I gave the guy a call this morning. He insisted he would never 'lose' a rope. It actually took some coercing to get him to look and see if he was missing one. Didnt seem to care much that it was missing... said it was easy for him to replace and tax deductable. I will feel better when its completely off my hands;)

So, this weekend I started setting up a climb that another gruop was tearing down. It was a guided group. The person guiding the group I feel is rude, unprofessional, AND unsafe. My observations are not coming from this one day, but nearly 2 yrs of close encounters with 'em on a regular basis. So, the guide is ending the day with some obviously upset customers. His rope is in the way of our set up. I leave it there for a while, then move it. Before I could say anything, he left without the rope. Gone...poof...vanish! I coiled it up and put it out of our way fully expecting him to come back and collect it. Hours later....the rope is still there. We leave and bring the rope with us. Do I keep it or not? Its a nice, new, beefy bluewater rope. Good for a number or purposes around here. My conscience says give it back. My brain says, "fuck that". Sooooo? Bad Karma to keep it? DIscuss!

damn!

Suggestions were left a few days ago in the mounties thread/spray forum. The couple you ran into... Did one of them happen to pack her stuff and move out west just to climb?

well, it doesnt look like my vote made much of a difference....YET!

No love of cardboard pizza? If you're in Grand Marais make sure you stop by the pie place on the south side of town (my minds drawing a blank as to the name) Damn good pies, and better than the tourist trap Betty's. I cant even picture it. Sure its in Grand Marais? Stopped by Betty's for a bite to eat on the way back to the cities this weekend. They were out of practically everything...including my favorite rhubarb pie *Back to your regularly scheduled program*

I will be looking for a ride from PDX. WOuld like to head out Thursday and get some climbing in on Friday. Either a ride back to PDX or Seattle would be great come Sunday or Monday.

First Full weekend to do anything all summer! Choice: Climbing on North Shore Background: The North Shore has climbing both along the cliffs of lake superior and inland. Its typically MUCH cooler on the cliffs, although weather can be a bit testy w/ forecasts being completely unreliable. The exposure can be great for some, especially with high winds and pounding waves. Its one place in the midwest where you can seriously be marooned if you are'nt able to make it up the climb. Heavy surf or ice can make talus impassable, cutting off your escape route. In this case you better know how to ascend a rope, enjoy getting pullied out, or be prepared for a long, cold swim. Ratings are old school...meaning tough! A 5.9 climb isnt just a couple 5.9 moves - the entire route is a 5.9. Pitches can vary from 60ft- a couple hundred feet. Routes often seem underrated. The rock -along the cliffs- is rhyolite, filled with zillions of sharp crystals (OUCHEE!). There is and probably always will be a no-chalk ethic in this area. The North Shore is an amazing place to climb. its vital to be mentally prepared, because the environment can fuck with your head so easily, turning your experience into a miserable one. Day 1: Wake with the sun along some logging road where we found an open field to camp the night before. Cup a Joe and we are ready to go. Started out with some easier climbs at Shovel Point (one of the more gentle cliffs)to boost my confidence. Moved onto some slab climbing with waaaaay cool exposure. Gorgeous weather all day- 75 and sunny. . The lake was calm and skies clear, inviting a number or divers and kayakers below us. Later in the evening, back along the logging road, we had great views of one shooting star after another as we ate dinner and threw back a few moose drools. The milky way lit up the sky before the moonlight took over, with mars shining brightly next to it. Found: A nice, new beefy rope left by a very disorganized, unsafe, and generally rude guiding company. Current location? My house! Day Two: Up again with the sun. Hit Palisade Head this day. The weather was a bit cooler - upper 60's with high winds and crashing waves. Thick fog through the early afternoon hours, finally clearing to sunny skies. this is where the mental games begin. Unlike last time, I was completely prepared and ready to take on whatever challenges came my way. The first, a 70+ft, sustained 5.8 offwidth. This route put a fear in me last year like no other climb has ever done before. A fall anywhere on the route can offer a good 30+ft pendelum, often times forcing you to start from the beginning. No problems this time around. It was actually quite enjoyable. I especially liked the 'sleeper' hold half way up. It will be a sad day when that flake breaks free. Knowing I now had an escape route, I took the opportunity to try some harder cracks. One in particular is photographed on the backside of "Freedom of the Hills" (Phantom crack). Easy 30-40ft slab start, ending with a 40ft+ hand crack, the crux being maybe 5 feet from the top. Grrrrrrrrr! Not being well versed in crack technique, I took one fall at the crux. A little determination and some creativity, I shortly topped out. One last climb before the long drive home. 80 ft sustained finger crack. Well, a finger crack for those with larger hands. Fortunately for me I was able to get my entire hand in the crack at some spots. Climbed it clean...though tough, very enjoyable! The best: Being greeted at the top of the last climb with a cold moose drool. Looking out the back window on the way home we noticed the Northern Lights. We hightailed it down a back road and enjoyed the pulsating dance in the sky for nearly an hour before realizing it was 10:30pm and we had a 4 hour drive home. Too bad for the suckas that had to work at 8am! So how was your weekend?

Awesome! Meant to book my flight last week. I will be doing it this week fer sure! Cant wait!

ITs a beautiful hike. THere is a good campsite along the way. head back toward grand marais and do a couple sections of the superior hiking trail. Hike pincushion mountain, cascade river , or the devils track. Just beware if its during hunting season. Dont forget to stop by "My Sisters Place" for some good grub and a brew. Unless you want to be a real tourist, then go to Sven and Oles (not recommended). Have fun!

You must not have been intrested in climbing when you were out here. If you are seriously going to be in the area and want to climb, I can point you in the right direction.

The only proof I got is the copywrite page where it credits the photos on the cover/backside

I just realized the back cover for the 6th ed (and maybe others) is a climb here in Minnesota. Phantom crack, Palisade head (I believe).

...in chat, if anyone wants to join

When I first started climbing I had a specific goal in mind. In order to reach that goal I knew there were things i needed to learn. As I have learned or begun to learn some of those things I have become a bit sidetracked with my initial goal.I have no problem being sidetracked, because I am having a blast with it and discovering aspects of climbing I never thought I would have interest in. As I brought up in a thread a while back, I think its important for me to determine my short and long term goals . Doing this might thelp me identify values/ethics I hold (ie/if I want to climb a .14 than I probly need to accept the gym as a training tool, falling needs to be okay with me, etc). The only goals I can identify at the moment are to have fun (absolute MUST!), challenge myself and learn from every climbing experience, as well as get myself to a point where I am consistant, confident/independant with my climbing. I often say, "when I get to this 'grade' I will be satisfied. Yet I find the further I work myself up ont he grades (in a consistant manner), the further I want to go. The more I climb, the more I want to learn. I understand goals are flexible and mine will change as I learn more. I guess I just wonder if others have goals, what they might be.Do they change often. And, How do your goals affect your ethics/beliefs around climbing?

Needed a change from hanging out at the crags all day on my one and only day off. Desperate for a more solitary activity that would kick me in the ass. Rode my bike about 10 miles to bouldering/traversing area. climbed for a couple hours (w/ a few breaks to deal with the pain of workin' in new pair of shoes), rode another 15 miles. (thats a good start for me, as I dont have much experience with 'cross training' or 'doubling up'). Later met up with a friend and his preschool age children. Went to the zoo with them...carrying them half the time and playing the "swing me with your one arm" game. Good times! Had dinner made for me, visited until it was safe to go home (there was a big festival a 1/2 block from my house)...crashed hard! Work the rest of the weekend.

I will be in the PNW OCt 1st- ? (probly around the 15th -20th). On past trips I have done some solo backpacking and then hooked up with folks from this site to climb. I know its a long way off, but thought I would plant a seed in anyone's head who is interested in climbing weekday/weekends during this time period. I will be in PDX Oct 1-2 (time for a pubclub?). Looking for a ride and/or partner(s) to smith the weekend of Oct 3-5 (Im flexible with those dates, of course). Plan on working my way up to Seattle around the 6th or 7th. A ride is great, but amtrack works just fine. Before the rope up time frame I would LOVE to do a route on Liberty Bell. Im open to ideas of other alpine routes instead of or addition to... (Mt Stuart?)...More interested in discreet/less popular routes than the big volcanoes. I will probly be looking for a ride from Seattle to the rope up. Looking for partners at the rope up who want to climb away from the crowds. Im happy to head out there a day earlier/leave a day later in order to make that happen. Any suggestions/beta on climbs is greatly appreciated. Anyone interested in hooking up for the time frame Im in the area, feel free to send me a pm.