klenke

Seattle Times Article (Associated Press)

Geez, I try to put my foot down but random people keep yanking it back up. People often don't show cuz we haggle over the venue for so damn long. Doxey: I'll meet you at the Ballroom patio. I plan on arriving around 7:00PM. That's where I'll be. If others of you wish to make an appearance, have at it. That's tomorrow (Tu) at 7PM, not tonight.

Post deleted by jon

You're probably right about more than a dozen parties per year on ERD. But I doubt it's 10X's 12. So I'll barter with you. 60? The photo of me going all rodeo is at the end of the knife-edge traverse. You can get away with not doing a cheval for any parts of it (chevals are for wussies?) but doing it without putting a single hand or finger down for balance would be sporty indeed. It's only about 6 inches wide in places and sometimes the crest is a sharp point...like a true knife edge. Tony and I free soloed the NE ledges. I noted that Tony likes that kind of stuff less than me (though I can't say I like it either). I wasn't really sketched out ever but I knew concentrating on EVERY step was mandatory. All it takes is one ill-placed choss pebble and you're glacier fodder.

Will the fees collected stay in the park? That would be nice and I'd be more apt to pay the fees if they were. It would be nice if they could then afford to do something like, oh, I don't know, say REMOVE THE WINDFALL FROM THE BOSTON BASIN TRAIL. That windfall--especially through the old avy slide area--has obviously been there a while. But nooo, can't clear that. Too busy finding people to hassle and cars to ticket.

Note that the East Ridge Route should not be confused with the East Ridge Direct Route. Both are misnomers as the map indicates. The East Ridge Route uses the crappy vegetated Class 3 ledges on the north side of the ridge well below the crest. It then ascends the obvious NE Face (East Face) concavity between the East Ridge (Southeast Ridge) and the North Ridge (Northeast Ridge). There was no register at the summit with which to count numbers but, as an example, at least 10 people did the West Ridge yesterday. No one went up via the East Ridge Route. Only Toast and I were on the East Ridge Direct. Even though the East Ridge Route is easier than the West Ridge it's not as aesthetic. The East Ridge Direct Route is probably only climbed by a dozen parties a year. My helmet is one of these. It's light like a bike helmet, but ISN'T A BIKE HELMET TO ALL YOU BOZOS THAT HAVE ASKED ME THAT ON A CLIMB. I haven't been enthused with the strap in terms of keeping it tight on my head without giving me that choked feeling. There is a dial on the back by the nape that can be turned to tighten-loosen it by adjusting the band around the skull.

Schedule it now Pub Club at the outside patio at the Ballroom on Tuesday (7/26). Come have a ball. Temps are supposed to be in the 80s on Tuesday.

Oh yeah. And just by chance if you get bored with the exposure there's no hope looking around at the distant views. All you'll see is crap like this. Where's the Devil's Club?

What a great way to be exposed to the soft, supple skin of Forbidden Peak. I was totally amped up after that Lost Energy Drink. Did you know there are scantily-clad bikini babes featured on the can? Too risque to show here. Photos: The approach gully (not so obvious from Boston Basin): The East Ridge (which really trends fully southeast, but whatever): The beginning of the ridge from the 8,350-ft col by the solitary gendarme: The lower East Ridge (first one or two pitches): The knife edge section (just a little exposed through here ): The middle part of the ridge just beyond the knife edge part: The last gendarme before the rappel gendarme: More photos may appear later.

Hot damn! God does shine on climbers in Icicle Canyon! Leavenworth site for physics lab no longer under consideration

Well, I did Shuksan twice in one year and it's higher than Logan. So neener neener neener. Or were you speaking to Blaketyblake?

Set your 100 by your own set of rules. It's all subjective. "Top 100 named points"? "Top 100 choss piles"? "Top 100 summits to have sex on top of"? One of many lists available on the net; this one is a comparative list (Bulger vs. 400P) --The Real Mr. K

Yes, Blake, you need to send/take the register book to the UW archives or the Mountaineers. But you probably intended to do that anyway. It serves the public no good if some guy has it in a box or drawer somewhere.

A Roper pic of north side of Storm King {click here} shows the north side of the West Peak. Steep snow then some rock. Hmmm? Yeah, sure, send me the pic via Email. Thanks. I believe the Wayne you speak of is our very own. Wayne's Logan Adventure.

Nice. Say, do you have a shot of Storm King and the Wyeth Glacier from the Logan area? I want to see if there might be a traverse route from Logan to Storm King by way of that glacier, possibly reaching this notch but possibly also farther east up the north side of the West Peak (Pt. 8515). [Your profile says you're still located in Bellingham. Liar liar liar.]

Well the guy on the right does look like he's got lipstick on...and has short hair. But it's certainly not Icegirl. Thank God.

Also: more likely to be full on weekend than during the week. For those who may be interested in the Stehekin shuttle, here is their 2005 summer schedule:

Via Depot Creek Trail with heavy pack: 5 hours to Ouzel Lake, 2 more hours to shores of Silver Lake.

Bomber or terrorist? How 'bout a bomberist?

Right on, guys! The way that photo of the campsite was taken from above makes it look like the tent was pitched on a severe slope. Josh didn't bring his raingear for a multi-day climb of the rain fence? Duh. Should have known better. Wayne obviously did. You really get around, Josh. Chiwawa summit register yesterday: JoshK, July 9, 2005 (the last entry before Stefan's and mine).

With the exception of some Roper exceptions to my chosen names, they're already as good as accepted. Who cares about the seams. It is an informational picture, not art. The view that day you were up on Chair: Note that from where my above annotated pano was taken (NE Queen Anne) you cannot see Chair Peak so that's why it's not labeled. Certainly you can see it from downtown skyrises, as is evidenced in the above.

Re: Forrest's last paragraph: In Kelly Bush's Sharkfin accident report, this appears to be a possible explanation for the anchor failure: too much static loading on the block.

Maybe Jonathan can confirm or condemn my work here: (At least for the officially named summits)

Ultimately, whether you test (bounce, lever, or otherwise) any block anchor candidate would have to do with if anyone was below you (other parties), whether that was your only choice no matter what, and so on. Dynamic yet iffy decisions often have to be made if you're going to get down versus staying there all night waiting for other forms of rescue. You can set a back up anchor (if available) in case a primary block fails but pray that the failing block doesn't flog you on acceleration past you.

Isn't that neat. I actually do remember sitting atop Reynolds Peak and being able to count a great many Top 100s from there. I don't remember the exact count. But your question is an intriguing one. Kind of like that unanswerable question of mine: what is the largest diameter circle one could place on a map of Washington wherein no man has ever set foot? 1/2-mile? 1/4-mile? 1/8-mile? --Real Klenke