willstrickland

I agree with this more or less. I will only tie into a piece other than the anchor (with a clove) if it's a bomber multi-directional piece...basically a bolt or fixed pin. And usually if I've already done that somewhere on the pitch, or the anchor was bolts or pins, I won't do it again. The exception might be where the rope is running over a sharp edge. In that case, after getting a solid multi-directional above that sharp section, I'd tie it off with slack so as to not load the lower section of the rope over the edge. Another exception is when self-belaying with a self-feeding device like the Silent Partner. If you don't tie off the rope to an intermidiate piece or two on a long pitch, the weight of the rope hanging down can cause the device to self-feed rope, giving you a shit-load of unwanted slack. You might not even notice this is happening.

He means the bottom piece pulling since it will be an upward pull.

Never tried the clove for self-belayed free climbing, except occasional short sections of an aid climb. Can't imagine it would be much fun...but that's why I have a Silent Partner...which is a bit of a pain in it's own way.

I've taken 15 footers on a clove hitch a couple of times. A munter would not be a good idea, unless you want to die. Always tie in with a backup knot if you're gonna rope-solo aid. Look in the Alpinist 5 in the article on Fitz Roy, there's a picture of Casaratto's "rack" that some other dudes found in '93 (Topher Donahue and Kennan Harvey). It was like a bunch of wooden blocks slung with cord. Wild. How hard is it to feed the clove? It's a pain in the ass, but you can get it done with one hand if you have to. You end up feeding out a bunch of slack at once after a while because you're tired of messing with it after every aid placement.

Agggrrr! I wrote a lengthy reply and the site served up an sql error so I lost it before I finished. Basically I said: The climbing pics need captions. change the font on the category bars or get rid of the ampersand (use "and" instead). font is cool, but the ampersand kills it. Intro/background pic for color scenics section is very nice, but might benefit from some unsharp mask in PS (try around 100-150%, 1-1.5 pixel, 1 threshhold). Too many sunsets, cut down to very best. Half Dome is trite, been done to death. The Flash is cool. Make the "more pics" button in the thumbnail bar more prominent. Make it disappear or become inactive if there are no further sets of thumbs (i.e. the second page of thumbs on color scenics the button lights on rollover implying there is more, when there are not more). There seems to be no way to nav back to the previous set of thumbs. I.e. on 2nd set of color scenic thumbs, don't see a way to go back to first set from there. I had comments on several images, but maybe another time, don't have the time to re-type them. Nice pics, slick presentation.

I believe the implication here is that he's already in custody. And that BushCo will arrange a "Bin-Laden captured!" event when it's most beneficial in light of the politcal climate.

Pierce was not nominated by his party (Democrat) for a second term, they nominated Buchanan instead. Fillmore got the same treatment, but his was quite different because the party (Whig) essentially disentigrated and he refused to join the Republican party. Here's a good article on the One-Term Presidential tradition http://www.theatlantic.com/issues/2003/09/beatty.htm

Yes, at least one pres (LBJ I think?)has declined to run for another term.

Couple of points: 1. The article says his "demeanor" was part of the problem. Sounds like the 'ol pompous asshole problem to me. I had former college professors teaching in my high school, so I don't buy the overqualified bit. 2. Being intelligent isn't the most pressing qualification for teaching at the high-school level. You need a thorough command of high-school level subject matter. More importantly, you need to be intuitive as to how a particular kid learns (visual, verbal, tactile, etc), caring, and personable. Furthermore, a highly intelligent person may even typically be an inferior teacher because they've always grasped subject matter easily and can't see why others don't "get it". I have a few friends who don't have Rhodes Scholar credentials or 1600 SAT intelligence, but are fantastic teachers because they can relate to the kids and present material in varied and interesting ways. I taught high school level natural sciences to adjudicated kids in Utah, and for me the hardest part was developing different ways to get the same material across to kids who learned differently. 3. The article says "one of the metro atlanta counties". Let's be clear here, the vast majority of schools in the metro (read suburban) counties surrounding Atlanta have a very low black population. I'd like to know which county because if it's Gwinnett, Cobb, Forsyth, or north Fulton there are very, very few black residents. Could have very well been a discriminatory situation.

Read "Optimum Muscle Performance and Recovery" Revised and Expanded 2nd Edition, Edmund R. Burke, PhD. Everything you need to know. Used copies for around $12 on Amazon.

Don't be so intellctual. If you have an opinion why not put it out there? Especially if you are from the south, I would like to hear a dissenting expose. He already did in a couple of other threads. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB23&Number=117643&Forum=c1&Words="Clinton"&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Main=117424&Search=true&where=sub&Name=&daterange=1&newerval=&newertype=&olderval=1&oldertype=y&bodyprev=#Post117643

I call bullshit on all ya'll. There's only 3 grades of ice: WI-Y (YEAH, I can climb that) WI-M (MAYBE, I can climb that) WI-NFW (NO FUCKING WAY am I getting on that)

Winter's autosig is this whole thread boiled down to one line.

Headed to Phoenix for work mid Feb. Want to get out and climb, close to town. Any suggestions?

I see the potential black market surge as a problem as well, but at the same time we have shady tax schemes and shelters being employed in the current system. I don't know of anywhere that has tried a strictly consumption tax system, but I also am not exactly up on world affairs. JayB? As for the argument about survival income levels, I believe that is the intent of the std deduction, where you are essentially not taxed on the first several thousand (I just filed and don't even remember the std deduction amount...around $4500 or so?) whether it works or not is another issue. That said, I agree with you in principle...the disproportionate distribution of wealth is going to be a big problem at some point and it's irrevocably tied to democractic (Republicans and Democrats alike) representation which has sold out the constituents for big business.

Just FYI, I get the same dealio running OS-X 10.2 and Safari

Murray, I can't quite agree with you there. I don't agree with HRoark, but I believe you're misinterpreting his point. I believe his view is that he shouldn't pay a higher percent in taxes than others simply because he makes more, i don't think he's arguing against paying some taxes. I like a flat tax idea, but I also believe that we should abolish the income tax altogether and instead put a national sales tax into place. That way consumption would be taxed and those who consume more resources (i.e. put a greater strain on the environment, infrastructure, etc) would pay a proportionate share. It would also vastly simplify the tax system and allow a massive downsizing of the IRS...smaller govt is a good thing in my opinion. I believe Bush's tax cuts were irresponsible fiscal policy. But at the same time, I'm really glad to not be paying state taxes in Oregon anymore...it's one of, if not the, highest taxed states in the country. AK has no state income tax or sales tax

Alright, so the first double-necks were made so dudes could do songs on stage that required 6 and 12 string guitars. This baby has a 12 string on top, a regular six string, a fretless six string on bottom (where only a midget could reach it, or a dude with +28 ape index)and two more regular sixes. So maybe he wants to play one regular in an alternate tuning and have a capo on the other one. That's five: 12str, reg 6, fretless, alt tuning, capo'ed. The real question is why in the hell would you write a tune than needed five different guitars when you've got a second guitarist in the band? WTF is the second guy playing? Ok, the caption: What's a bigger piece of shit than a Hamer Guitar? A 5-in-one Hamer guitar.

Dude, where you movin to? It's cold up here ya know.

CBS a more pertinent question might be: "Is the strength in these pieces a relevant concern?" Why do small cams fail? I'd wager 99.9% of the time it's from poor placement (bad angle, overcammed, walks, etc) or bad rock. It's not as if these things are just blowing apart left and right. IMO: Aid = Aliens (because flexy stem and two-cam placements) Pin Scars = Alien Hybrids (because they're bomber) Free = Metolius (or DMM/Wired Bliss/HB equivalent), Aliens, and if on granite w/scars Hybrids (because being able to mix a custom rack for a route is nice) My own rack is doubles and triples in Metolius TCUs and a set of Hybrids. I had 2 sets of Hybrids but sold one set when strapped for cash...2 sets of hybrids rock for granite aid. I hate the small flex friends.

I have found that taking a business meeting approach and coming prepared with some "exhibits" such as a print out of the Voile web page showing the msrp, will go a long way toward remedying the problem. Elevate the issue immediately, not with a gruff "who's your supervisor" but more of a right off the bat without even engaging the regular customer service folks: "hello there, could you tell me the name of the store manager? Is he/she in? Would it be possible to speak with them?" Getting to the manager after getting pissed at the underlings usually makes the manager expect you to be an unreasonable ass who's been abusing his staff. I'd take them to task for what happened. The co-op of which you are a member was formed to use the power of volume purchasing to get it's members (you) a better deal than you could otherwise get. If you're paying over msrp, regardless of the 10% back in dividend, the co-op is not fufilling it's priamry purpose. You should be able to save more than 10% off msrp in any co-op that stays true to it's roots. The fact that they did extra work without your authorization, to remedy a problem they likely caused in the first place (the epoxied screws) is totally out of whack with standard business practice. First, they shouldn't be doing the extra work until they have your authorization...any auto repair shop will tell you that. Second, if they mounted the first ones, and epoxied them, they caused the problem and need for extra work...do you have the work order from the original mount? I'd go back with a voile web printout showing the MSRP, the original work order for the first mount, a list of the problems (price too high, incompetent shop staff, unauthorized work, charges for a problem they created, no way to "opt out" by getting cash from the gift certif) and some figures on paper of how it escalated from a $140 job to a $200 job. Go to the store and get straight to the manager, don't even explain the situation to the customer service staff, just politely ask for the store manager. If that fails, take Lummox with you and let him intimidate and threated them ..that works sometimes too.

I've tried them and really don't care for 'em. Too much hassle. They might be nice if you're doing alot of jugging on fixed lines so you could dial in the length exactly where you want it. I've tried the Metolius Daisies and much prefer the Yates.The yates will eventually start slipping after maybe 35-50 pitches or so. The Metolius are rated pretty weak, but the yates are susceptible to breaking at the buckle due to the sharp bend and agressive teeth, despite being rated to a higher load. The Metolius are quite a bit lighter, but they're more of a pain to release/re-extend. On the yates you can have the buckle get pressed against another biner or piece and you start slipping...scary shit the first couple of times it happpens. The new ones are supposed to have recessed tabs that help with this. I went to the Russian system and Yates adjustables daisies, and I love the set-up. The only drawback I've encountered is if you want to clip-clean a traverse in the middle of a pitch you have to do a little system rearrangement, but no biggie.

The MAX stations in PDX often have some wicked hard shallow cracks boulder problems. The ones I remember best are at the first station after the tunnel on the west side (Sunset?...I can't even remember the names now and I rode that thing everyday). The difficulty is size...thin hands and off-hands, but probably more of an issue is they are shallow. I found a 7 story expansion joint on a building here, at -35F it was off-fists, I bet in the summer that mother's perfect hands! I'm going looking for some ice-buildering tonight, with appropriate topo/beta map in hand

"You think the shirt is fruity lookin', wait'll you see THESE!"