willstrickland

Are those Jen's socks you're wearing Distel?

Boy, that fucker transferred alot, they gave him that same exam at MIT, Cal Tech, Yale, Stanford....

What's a guy gotta do to get a new forum around here? I propose "THE NEW NO FUCKING HOLDS BARRED BATTLECAGE DEATHTHREAT NO BANNING PEEPS NO LOCKING THREADS FORUM, Come join Bonzo and Panther for inspiring discussions on the joys of raising all hell"

Wonder if they'd let me wear my helmet with the "What the FUCK are YOU looking at?!" sticker on the front if I joined?

Acme will work, but they're not even close to Camalots, Metolious, etc in terms of workmanship, design, feel, and refinement. If you go with Acme, down the road you'll upgrade. So why not buy quality from the start? If your only partner, or regular partner is also just starting out, you could go in on a set of Camalots together...just make sure that it's not "our set" but that you divide them so that some are yours and some are his (i.e. you own the 5., #1, #3, #4 and he owns the .75, #2,#3.5, #4.5 or something) Then you can gradually fill out your individual racks by buying the missing pieces and have enough between you to climb routes in the meantime. You'll also have a combined rack with all the same brand...which is very nice. I hate combining racks for a free climb and looking down at some strange brand of cams that I don't know the sizes by sight. I recommend doing it this way because you can often swing a good deal if you buy an entire set at once. When I bought my first set of Camalots I had a rack built from booty gear, hand-me-downs, and a few cheap pieces. I went into a gear shop in Provo and told the guy I wanted to buy a set of Camalots from #0.5 to #5 and that I could get them for $X.XX from another place by mail order but I'd rather buy locally and support their shop, would they match the price? The price I quoted was about 10% below their price for a set and about 35% below what it would cost to buy the individual cams at MSRP. They said ok, and I walked out with a new set of cams. They also got my business the rest to the time I was there. Don't be afraid to haggle, after all would you pay sticker price for a car? Asking price for a home? Just my opinions, but I prefer Camalots from #0.5 on up. I like Metolius/Wired Bliss/DMM/HB in smaller sizes, and Aliens and Alien hybrids for aid. I still have a few Wild COuntry flexible friends and rigid friends, but I hate 'em. Camalots to Acme is like Lexus to Yugo.

This must be a Vancouver honorary chapter of the Mounties or something...I can tell because the chick has "Canadian girls kick ass" on her helmet and they're both baked off their ass!

Trollveggen baby!

Notice the horizon....weird geology around Vesper eh?

did somebody say Distel was a truck....? werd werd You can do better than that Distel like this: Fed Ex Distel trucks?...Those are for when you absolutely have to send it the same day.

PM Texplorer. I know he went up the slabs approach and did the route in a day 2 or 3 years ago. I believe he also went up the slabs last fall at some point (seems like he mentioned the approach had changed a little).

Hmmm, whadya think? Should we climb The Book of Shadows or Eternal Flame? Either way, the Trangos rawk bro!!!

Oh boy, let's not go there...I work for the branch of the agency that regulates this. We're in a conundrum with this one and here's why: You strip off the top of the hill to get to the low-sulfur coal. Low sulfur is the key word here, these coal deposits produce less sulfur dioxide (SO2) when burned. 65% of the SO2 emitted in the US comes from coal fired electric power plants. SO2 is what causes "acid rain" among other problems. These are old, old mountains and the material being removed is highly compacted. Once it's out of the ground, the volume is greater and you simply can't put it all back where it came from when the mining is finished. Trucking the excess away is prohibitively expensive. You're on a mountain/hill/ridgetop. What do you do with it? The big problem is, this material is unweathered and hence high in unoxidized sulfur compounds...primarily pyrite (FeS2). So in the absence of alkaline material to neutralize and assuming the presence of oxygen and water, you get a 4 step chemical reaction that oxidizes the FeS2 producing ferrous iron (Fe2+), that Fe2+ is oxidized to ferric iron (Fe3+), the ferric iron is hydrolyzed and you have acid (H+) as a result. There are other more compicated chemical reactions that also occur where the resulting ferric acts directly on the pyrite acting as a catalyst for generating ferrous iron, sulfate, and acid (FeS2 + 14 Fe3 + 8 H2O = 15 Fe2+ 2 SO4(2-) + 16 H+) When these areas naturally weather, the acid production is low/slow. When you have a huge amount of surface area (i.e. tailings) with oxygen in the pores and water flowing through...it's ideal for producing acid. Our mandate, along with EPA, is to regulate and protect the waters of the US. Unfortunately, we are an arm of the DOD. This is a policy issue that's a hot topic right now, and there aren't any good solutions. Countoured tailings piles with a geotextile barrier and water capture/collection and treatment is probably workable, but also expensive.

Up to 9hrs of daylight now

Hey 'tards, maybe this had something to do with the escalating price? Opec production cut reveals cartel's new goal February 11, 2004 Algiers - Opec's surprise cut in production shows that the powerful cartel is all business in the post-Iraq-war-world, navigating for maximum profit rather than trying to accommodate the United States, analysts said. "This is not your Daddy's Opec," analyst Yasser Elguindi told AFP Wednesday, referring to the price-driven decision by the Organization of Petroleum Exporting Countries to cut production announced in Algiers Tuesday. During the Iraq war Opec raised production in order to keep prices from shooting up. But Elguindi said the goal of the 11-nation cartel, which supplies over a third of the world's oil, was now "to get the highest price possible while still maintaining world economic growth." The Opec meeting in Algiers "was all about messages, all about intent, that the cartel is going to defend prices," said Elguindi, who works at Medley Global Advisors in London and attended the conference here. Opec surprised oil markets Tuesday by announcing it would be producing 2.5 million fewer barrels per day (bpd) of crude as of April 1 in an effort to keep prices from falling when demand drops in spring in the northern hemisphere. Traders had expected Opec to wait until spring to announce any cuts as prices are still above Opec's target band of 22-28 dollars a barrel and demand is still high owing to an exceptionally cold winter in the United States and Europe. But Opec members said after a meeting in Algiers that they were reducing the cartel's "24.5 million bpd ceiling by one million bpd to 23.5 million bpd, effective April 1," according to a joint statement. In addition, production over this quota that had been stimulated by high demand is to be eliminated by the end of March, with the excess estimated at 1.5 million bpd, Opec ministers said. Elguindi said Opec was now pro-active and trying to get ahead of prices. Opec had been more passive after negative Western reaction to the oil shocks, and flaring of prices, in the 1970s. But Opec "doesn't want a repeat of 1998, when prices collapsed and took two years to come back," Elguindi said. World oil prices spurted higher Tuesday but the shock was muted by scepticism over Opec's ability to carry out its decision, analysts said. New York's benchmark contract, light sweet crude for delivery in March, gained $1.04 to $33.87 a barrel. Brent North Sea crude for March rose 93 cents to $30.04. Buying was more relaxed than might be expected, said Fimat USA market analyst Mike Fitzpatrick in New York. "The lack of buying comes from the scepticism over the Opec action," Fitzpatrick said. Traders apparently believed the cartel would find it difficult to trim output as it has traditionally produced over its quotas. Meanwhile, Fitzpatrick said, the International Energy Agency was predicting a second-quarter supply surplus of 2.5 million to 4 million barrels per day, making any Opec tightening less painful. "We hope producers do not take actions that hurt our economy," White House national security spokesman Sean McCormack told AFP after the Opec announcement. "The United States believes oil prices should be set by market forces in order to ensure adequate supplies," said McCormack, who added: "We do not comment on specific Opec meetings or actions." An analyst present in Algiers who wished to remain anonymous said that Opec could not cut output in March for political reasons since it would go over badly in the winter season in the United States and Europe. The cartel nonetheless clearly intended with its two-step approach to micro-manage production and retain control over oil prices, the analyst said. Opec ministers were also concerned about loss in value from the falling dollar, as oil prices are in the US currency. Iranian Oil Minister Namdar Zangeneh said Opec was interested in keeping oil prices at the upper end of the cartel's official price band of 22-28 dollars for a reference basket of crudes. The production cut was decided in order "to keep in the upper part of the band", which means stopping oil prices from falling below 25 dollars a barrel. - AFP

Those guys botched a resole for me a couple of years ago. I called them and told them the deal and they re-did them. Got them right the second time. I've gone back to using Marmot Mtn Works in Berkely, they rock. Their rand repair work is artistry. I highly recommend them.

Greedy Hey Burgersling, take that stupid avatar picture off, everytime it loads it tries to place cookies

This one: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=0&Board=UBB23&Number=285267&Forum=,All_Forums,&Words=Mounties&Searchpage=1&Limit=25&Main=285228&Search=true&where=sub&Name=&daterange=0&newerval=&newertype=&olderval=&oldertype=&bodyprev=#Post285267 And this one: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/260155/page/0/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1/vc/1 And this one: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB23&Number=236611&Forum=UBB23&Words=experienced&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=236611&Search=true#Post236611 And saving the best for last: http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/86861/page/0/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1/vc/1

I would have started leading easy trad routes instead of messing around TR'ing harder routes.

Lacking anything better to do I decided to scope out the under-construction UAF museum expansion for possible lines. Settling on a probable line on the SE face, I geared up w/ axes, cramps, windstopper gloves and a balaclava and left the car as the last of the construction crew left the job trailer. Starting up I mixed dry tooling between insulation panels and along the edges where the next panels will eventually interconnect like jigsaw puzzle pieces, with a couple of free moves to a horizontal gap filled with ice. A mighty swing and blam...no more ice, the whole ice ribbon fell out. "Hmmm, I should traverse..." So I work a little left and down, moving from the far right side of the face to the middle and more ice. I swing again, but delicately this time. The ice is about 2 1/2 inches thick, but good enough and I pull up, lock off, and mantle off the right axe to hook the next edge where the panel end. I grab the side of the column of panels and pull into a stance at what I thought was going to be an ice ribbon in a handcrack. Instead it was snow in a finger, hand, fist and OW crack. I clipped the tools to my pack (no harness) and continued. After two sketchy moves the feet were good on the edge of the panels and stemming the other foot to the right was secure. At the end of the crack between the panels and the wall was another ribbon of ice dripping from the roof. It was about 6" to 8" wide and about 4" thick. Two very very delicate moves up the ice and I grabbed the rooftop and mantled over. Descended the construction ladders from the roof through the inside and got the F-outta-dodge. SE Face of UAF Museum FFA free solo Grade I, 5.6, M3, WI2+ Live video cam of this face at http://137.229.42.101:8080/view/view.shtml

Mike if you're running Windows, install the google toolbar free from google, it's got a blocker in it. If you're on Mac, Safari has a built-in blocker

bump

mathematics as zen cosmology Nice one! At that grade and bolted, some of you phaqers should be able to do one recon climb then go back and simul almost the whole thing and car to car it in under 6 hrs. Turn off the computer, step up, and get it done.

First we had George Herbert Walker Bush Now we have George Herbert Hoover Bush.... "Hey Dubya, don't bogart the blow bro!"

looks like cj001f has a few, PM him