willstrickland

C'mon RuMr. I wasn't recommending those three for these guys, even if Sacherer is only 5.9 They are real good pitches if you like the wide. MattP, are you talking about that route over by arrowhead arete that tops out on a little spire to the right of the arete proper? Seems like it was only about 2 pitches. We got down w/ one rap on two 60s.

Now you're talkin, C. Moby, Ahab, and Sacherer. There just aren't a lot of multipitch moderates in the ditch. Only stuff that comes to mind in the .7-.9 range, at 3 or more pitches (notes for this crew in parentheses): Royal Arches 5.7 (too long and crowded, epic potential for noobs on raps or NDG descent) CP Frenzy 5.9 (rockfall, second pitch fingers may be a bit much for your noobs) After Six 5.6 (one decent pitch to alot of bs scrambling and wanking about) After Seven 5.8 (never done it, no comment) Nutcracker 5.8 (crowded, mantle could be interesting w/ noobs) NE Butt Higher Cathedral 5.9 (great route, but the wide is as hard or harder than BB) Higher Spire reg route 5.9 (lots 'o 5.9, go get it) Little John right 5.8 (recommended, good route) Munginella 5.6 (five open books area has tons of loose shit above the routes) Selaginella 5.8(see above comment on 5 open books) Committment 5.9 (see above comment on 5 open books) Braille Book 5.8 (one short wide section, go get it) Positively 4th Street 5.9 (let me know if you find the f$%#er, I couldn't ) I'd head for Vegas. More reliable weather for the time of year. Think Cat in the Hat, Crimson, Solar Slab, Phys Graffiti, Black Orpheus, Frogland, etc. Tons of stuff in that range and sportos have the option to bag the trad silliness and go clip fat shinys at the pullouts in case they can't find their nuts...or cams.

Will your advisor approve?

Go to Red Rocks. Better locale for what you're after, IMO. But if you are goin to the ditch: Braille Book, and while you're up there the Reg Route on Higher Spire. The approach is tame, about an hour.

Why don't you crawl back down there and put your gimp mask back on, Alpine K*nt

Buy a full suspension bike. I say this as a hartail rider. Most modern suspensions don't rob pedal power too much, and are not much heavier than a hardtail...those are really the only two upsides to a hardtail. I rode a Giant NRS frame (full suspension) for a season in 2003, alternating between it and an older CAAD3 Cannondale hardtail (my normal ride for last 8 yrs). The hardtail was about 2 lbs lighter, but it puts a hell of a beating on my body compared to the full suspension. I could ride ALOT harder/faster on downhills on the full susp jobber and the "bob" you sometimes get on full suspensions when under hard uphill pedaling I never noticed on the Giant frame, nor on a Trek full susp that I demo'd. Rode an older Santa Cruz full susp that sucked. Felt like being on a pogo stick and pedaling in the wrong gear when trying to climb. I am recommending the full sus because it will serve you better as an all around mtn bike that you can really do it all on from summer lift served resort downhilling to singletrack trail rides. Hardtails are pretty much for gram counting racing freaks and old dads who can't afford to upgrade (e.g. Me). 3-5" of travel is oh so plush compared to a hardtail and you will really notice it the next day in your back, elbows, wrists, etc. (plus you won't crash as much on downhills) And go titanium, steel, carbon, aluminum as a frame material in that order if you have to make that choice (given reasonably close weight). An alum bike is way rigid and light (and a go-to choice for getting lightweight bang for the bucks), but a titanium or steel bike rides way, way, WAY smoother than Al and at least carbon feels dead rather than buzzy and punishing like Al. With the current configuration of frames, the uphill efficiency adv of hardtails is greatly diminished. That's my take, I'm sure others will weigh in.

Ok, this is early but I want to go ahead and get it out there anyway. I'm moving back to the PNW this fall. Possibly as early as beginning Oct, potentially as late as end Nov. I would like to find a spot somewhere in the general vicinity of Leavenworth. If you know of something available, please hit me with a PM. Obviously prefer to live with other climbers, unemployed dirtbags with plenty o time on their hands would be ideal, but I have no prejudice against the gainfully employed, lol. Oh yeah, the place should be friendly.

Bet on it. It will be someone equally as bad, and likely less capable. Norton's ties to Jackin' Abrahamoff are starting to come out, which looks like the impetus for her callin' it a day. She was bad...as bad as Watt? Probably not, but good riddance.

Ivan did you ask him why his criminal ass wan't in prison where he belonged?

See Rumr, maybe if you read the original poster's question: Of course you would be better off climbing outside, but that's not what she asked, dood.

Read up on periodization, a general exercise physiology topic. In short, you want to "pyramid" your workouts. This would be an example: Weeks 1-8, focus on continuous movement, lots of laps on realtively easy stuff. You are building a base of endurance here. Weeks 9-12, focus on routes and traverses at or near your limit. You are building strength here and power endurance. Weeks 13-15, focus on hard bouldering. Power is the name of the game here. Week 16, taper off your workouts decreasing volume and intensity. Week 17 - send your project. Week 18-19 rest. Repeat. Vary the weeks to vary the cycle length but a ratio around 8:5:3 is a good place to start for the phases. Good luck.

Sugar-free chewing gum. Seriously. Like Trident or something. Gives you the sensory stimulation without the cals. Seems like alot of people eat for entertainment/sensory stimulation rather than because they are actually feeling hunger pangs. Of course, for all you toothless meth addicts, this might not be the best solution.

You don't have to shell out big money for a good bag. I've gone through 3 (on #4 now)synthetic 15deg bags in the last dozen years...Marmot wizard (currently), TNF cats meow, Sierra Des. wild bill (two of these). I never paid retail, getting three of the four from Campmor end of season model year clearance sales, twice with a free 3/4 thermarest thrown in the deal, and paid about $125 avg. Brand is more or less unimportant. I like the hood features on SD better than the others I've had, but polarguard is polarguard and nylon is nylon. You can't expect a synthetic bag to last as long as down. My FF 20deg bag is going strong 8 years later and I expect it will last another 10 no problem. But I ain't taking a down bag up a big route in above or near freezing temps. I know I spent at least 250 nights (probably closer to 400) in the first SD, before it lost too much loft. And I totally neglected that one, just abused it while working hoods in the woods. Never pay retail.

Musta felt easy after the Dihedral Wall: "It became obvious that this route would be a huge step above anything I had climbed. It was absurdly sustained. Most of the existing hard free routes on El Cap had only a few 5.13 pitches, but of the first fifteen pitches of the Dihedral, one was 5.14, one 5.13d, three 5.13c, three 5.13b, and four 5.12. On top of that, these pitches were sustained. I had to really concentrate from the start to the end of each pitch — none were one-move wonders. "

What's the upside to that? I did that "gettin' a legit job" thing about 2 years, 5months, and 4 days ago. Well, I gotta run. Gotta have my TPS reports done by Monday. Pax, where are those new cover sheets?

Yo Bart, don't ye have a comely blond lass to be attendin' to you scrucy dog?

They don't know how it happened? Comforting.

Springtime stoke from wiki: "Regarding the repeat of the Nose, the team of Caldwell and Rodden free climbed it on Oct 14, 2005 by swapping leads. Then on Oct 16, 2005, Caldwell freed the Nose in less than 12 hours. A few days later, Caldwell returned, freeing the Nose in 11 hours, sprinting down the East Ledges descent, and jumping on Freerider, the three-pitch .12b variation to the Salathé wall, topping out 12 hours later. In total, Caldwell climbed El Cap twice in 23 hours, for a total of 66 pitches of hard free climbing. He fell four times."

Dude, one thing you need to make it a "commuter" is a "job".

Very good article. Expresses, in a much more civil tone, the disgust I feel with REI. Particularly the underhanded rule changes that all but eliminate anyone getting on the board except hand picked minions of the existing board members.

Mac you very much

http://www.topozone.com

I knew that this admin was living in complete fantasy land when their little interlude/courtship with Kissinger dissolved. He stated flatly "there is no Iraq. There will be three territories". The Suskind book confirmed that with the "senior administration official" quote saying they "create their own reality". The Derb and McCarthy are first off the reservation at Buckley's rag...the pitiful excuse for a journal it's become, in large result of the rampant cronyism in GOP circles...it's amusing watching the wingnuts slowly come 'round 5 years too late and turn on each other in the process as they realize that the boy king is an empty codpiece. Can someone please kick Pipes, Ledeen, and Hanson squarely in the ass now? They surely deserve it. And while you're at it, got ahead and boot Krauthammer, Kristol, Lieberman, and their ilk in the face while you're at it. These dipshits sold the rubes and sheeple a bill of goods, the media compliantly beat the war drums complete with "swoosh" graphics of eagles, the stars n stripes, and bold declarative captions "The March to War" or some such shit, now thousands are dead as a result and we're throwing over a $120 Billion/yr after this ill advised, bullshit "war on terrah" by gettting our troops and equipment blown to hell, instead of securing the ports, borders, and addressing energy policy from peak oil to global warming. But I repeat myself...for the last five years, I repeat myself. As do thousands of others deemed "shrill, defeatist, terrorist sympathizer, troop demoralizer, anti American, traitors, who dare question Dear Leader Chimpy". Fuck you Necon assholes, and the AIPAC you rode in on.

Now you're talkin. Some Mike Paul reverse Stem Gem wankin circa '87 striped lycra. Yessir. That's hardman wear. The REAL Action Suit.