willstrickland

Might be. If the dude is crankin' .13 cracks, I figure it's not hurtin' him too much.

40hrs? Kinda slack for the corp world, but... How much time do you spend commuting and how much wear and tear on your vehicle from that, how much gas? Time at corporate functions, entertaining clients, road shows, and cooking something for the latest potluck for x-mas/thanksgiving/Bob's retirement? Travel for meetings, time shopping for and money spent on "professional wardrobe", various professional association dues and/or continuing ed? Opportunity cost on the big pow days in winter and bluebird spring days at the crag. Extra money spent on quick/easy to prepare food versus cooking because you are short on time and lunchtime restaurant meal because you forgot lunch or were too lazy/rushed to make it beforehand. Just so you can see your job migrate to asia within the next decade, your pension go unfunded while the CEO rakes in 7 figures, or watch as your continued employment rides on the outcome of a SCOTUS ruling (my current situation). Sweet

This is a pretty nice line at RR

Blake, you catchin' any browns down there?

I read a fair amount of it. Take away for me was simple: 1. Cordolette does not equalize worth a shit. 2. "Shock loading" on an improved sliding X (i.e. w/ limiter knots), a much touted concern, is not really much of a concern in real world situations. 3. People love to wank about with gear, but I need a simple system un-fuck-up-able even when exhausted. But I knew this already. So 50 pages of wanking later, I learned only that you do NOT want to be behind one of these parties on a long route as they attempt to remember, then construct, one of these 12 biner, eight sling, super double mondo equal cordowanksystems at each belay. Two stainless fatties? Bowline on a bight, aka atomic clip. Two lockers, one knot in the rope and you're done. Good enough when there's two bomber pieces. Yes, it has a downside, but not one you're likely to encounter.

Freudian slip, double entendre, or just another bad cc.com spellur? You decide.

Then go to Italy, sport. Be sure to clear it with your advisor first though.

Having my first Red Hook Copper Hook...well actually my fourth, but I mean first day...anyway. A little light for a copper ale. Not a contender in it's category. Not bad, but not among the best in Red Hook's bottled arsenal. Also, Pyramid Curveball Kolsch.... Sucks my ass. Lame even for a kolsch (a variety of which the Lucky Lab brews a nice example) a puffster beer brewed for some brokeback germans or something.

Interesting thing about the Suby AWD w/ auto tranny is that the power split is only 50/50 in 1st and 2nd gear, after that in 3&4 it's a 90/10 front rear split. (Or they used to be anyway) Forresters are pretty cheap, afa new cars go. For the money they are hard to beat. Not my own choice (I'm partial to the legacy wagon because the cargo box is longer) but they are cheaper than say an Accord or Camry or similar FWD japanese rig.

climbing forte: Not doing any. Seems to be my strongsuit for the last couple of years. I'm really, really good at it. But I've honed my skills of climbing off the couch and getting another beer, and also climbing into my waders and skipping work. Uncage your bowl..I mean soul...or something.

She needs a meeting with "The Donald" You're FIRED!

If you wanna give them the real Yosemite local's experience, just stay shit-faced on malt liquor all day, spray in the caf until you've had 4 cups of stolen coffee and it's 11am, ride a bike down to El Cap meadow and bust out your plush lounging gear...crash pad, coolers, lounge chairs n such, puff a fat bowl and spray some more...head back to C4 and fall off two boulder problems, continue drinking malt liquor and smokin mad herb, find a campfire party and mooch liquor and fire warmth, stumble off to bed. Get up and do it again.

...where I could get some of that bitchin' striped neon lycra.

Actual call to the design eng this a.m.: Me: So, tell me about this new catch basin and culvert at the weigh station. Her: Yes, that's to replace the existing undersized culvert that's failing. We'll pump the old one full of slurry and abandon it. Me: Yeah, I get that part. But the bottom of your sed basin is higher elevation than your culvert inlet. Her: Umm, yeah I guess it is. Me: So did water start running uphill this week, or you have a pumphouse that didn't make the plans? Her: Well, no, there's no pump. Our hydrologist said this was the best configuration though. Me: Ok then. Well, I recommend you either raise the elevation of your weigh station building and the road bed, because the whole area is going to be under about 4 ft of water, or teach your hydrologist how to read topo lines. Let me know when you figure it out.

C'mon RuMr. I wasn't recommending those three for these guys, even if Sacherer is only 5.9 They are real good pitches if you like the wide. MattP, are you talking about that route over by arrowhead arete that tops out on a little spire to the right of the arete proper? Seems like it was only about 2 pitches. We got down w/ one rap on two 60s.

Now you're talkin, C. Moby, Ahab, and Sacherer. There just aren't a lot of multipitch moderates in the ditch. Only stuff that comes to mind in the .7-.9 range, at 3 or more pitches (notes for this crew in parentheses): Royal Arches 5.7 (too long and crowded, epic potential for noobs on raps or NDG descent) CP Frenzy 5.9 (rockfall, second pitch fingers may be a bit much for your noobs) After Six 5.6 (one decent pitch to alot of bs scrambling and wanking about) After Seven 5.8 (never done it, no comment) Nutcracker 5.8 (crowded, mantle could be interesting w/ noobs) NE Butt Higher Cathedral 5.9 (great route, but the wide is as hard or harder than BB) Higher Spire reg route 5.9 (lots 'o 5.9, go get it) Little John right 5.8 (recommended, good route) Munginella 5.6 (five open books area has tons of loose shit above the routes) Selaginella 5.8(see above comment on 5 open books) Committment 5.9 (see above comment on 5 open books) Braille Book 5.8 (one short wide section, go get it) Positively 4th Street 5.9 (let me know if you find the f$%#er, I couldn't ) I'd head for Vegas. More reliable weather for the time of year. Think Cat in the Hat, Crimson, Solar Slab, Phys Graffiti, Black Orpheus, Frogland, etc. Tons of stuff in that range and sportos have the option to bag the trad silliness and go clip fat shinys at the pullouts in case they can't find their nuts...or cams.

Will your advisor approve?

Go to Red Rocks. Better locale for what you're after, IMO. But if you are goin to the ditch: Braille Book, and while you're up there the Reg Route on Higher Spire. The approach is tame, about an hour.

Why don't you crawl back down there and put your gimp mask back on, Alpine K*nt

Buy a full suspension bike. I say this as a hartail rider. Most modern suspensions don't rob pedal power too much, and are not much heavier than a hardtail...those are really the only two upsides to a hardtail. I rode a Giant NRS frame (full suspension) for a season in 2003, alternating between it and an older CAAD3 Cannondale hardtail (my normal ride for last 8 yrs). The hardtail was about 2 lbs lighter, but it puts a hell of a beating on my body compared to the full suspension. I could ride ALOT harder/faster on downhills on the full susp jobber and the "bob" you sometimes get on full suspensions when under hard uphill pedaling I never noticed on the Giant frame, nor on a Trek full susp that I demo'd. Rode an older Santa Cruz full susp that sucked. Felt like being on a pogo stick and pedaling in the wrong gear when trying to climb. I am recommending the full sus because it will serve you better as an all around mtn bike that you can really do it all on from summer lift served resort downhilling to singletrack trail rides. Hardtails are pretty much for gram counting racing freaks and old dads who can't afford to upgrade (e.g. Me). 3-5" of travel is oh so plush compared to a hardtail and you will really notice it the next day in your back, elbows, wrists, etc. (plus you won't crash as much on downhills) And go titanium, steel, carbon, aluminum as a frame material in that order if you have to make that choice (given reasonably close weight). An alum bike is way rigid and light (and a go-to choice for getting lightweight bang for the bucks), but a titanium or steel bike rides way, way, WAY smoother than Al and at least carbon feels dead rather than buzzy and punishing like Al. With the current configuration of frames, the uphill efficiency adv of hardtails is greatly diminished. That's my take, I'm sure others will weigh in.

Ok, this is early but I want to go ahead and get it out there anyway. I'm moving back to the PNW this fall. Possibly as early as beginning Oct, potentially as late as end Nov. I would like to find a spot somewhere in the general vicinity of Leavenworth. If you know of something available, please hit me with a PM. Obviously prefer to live with other climbers, unemployed dirtbags with plenty o time on their hands would be ideal, but I have no prejudice against the gainfully employed, lol. Oh yeah, the place should be friendly.

Bet on it. It will be someone equally as bad, and likely less capable. Norton's ties to Jackin' Abrahamoff are starting to come out, which looks like the impetus for her callin' it a day. She was bad...as bad as Watt? Probably not, but good riddance.

Ivan did you ask him why his criminal ass wan't in prison where he belonged?

See Rumr, maybe if you read the original poster's question: Of course you would be better off climbing outside, but that's not what she asked, dood.

Read up on periodization, a general exercise physiology topic. In short, you want to "pyramid" your workouts. This would be an example: Weeks 1-8, focus on continuous movement, lots of laps on realtively easy stuff. You are building a base of endurance here. Weeks 9-12, focus on routes and traverses at or near your limit. You are building strength here and power endurance. Weeks 13-15, focus on hard bouldering. Power is the name of the game here. Week 16, taper off your workouts decreasing volume and intensity. Week 17 - send your project. Week 18-19 rest. Repeat. Vary the weeks to vary the cycle length but a ratio around 8:5:3 is a good place to start for the phases. Good luck.