slothrop

Ah, the "smooth jazz" of blues rock guitar.

Dunno if this will make it into the new edition, but I'll post it here for reference anyway. The route description for the NW Face of Kangaroo Temple is confusing, though the topo is right on. The first paragraph is fine; here's how the second paragraph should read (bold indicates changes):

Gosh, you're so right. Now go away.

Cool! Nice to see what that peak looks like in winter.

Check's in the mail.

Rad.

Can someone translate those FPS numbers into a fall factor for NOLSe?

@ SG: what Alpinfox sez, except vertical hands: 5.7 overhanging hands: 5.10 fingers/tips through roof (hands) in old bouldering area, rocks for feet: 5.10 fingers in back alcove, old bouldering area: 5.9+ thin hands in front room: ridiculous @ UW rock overhanging hands with back to arete, N side W tower: 5.10+ S side of W tower, flaring fist crack: 5.9+ layback, I can't jam that shit S side of W tower, slanting shallow hands: 5.8 S side of big tower, fists to fingers: 5.9 N side of big tower, rightmost hand crack: 5.10 start to 5.8 E side of westernmost wall, shallow offwidth: 5.9+ layback... or you can Leavittate it like AlpineDave 500-foot hand cracks to the top of the Bank of California building: looks like 5.8 all the way

MEC's softshell pants are nice, except the size that fits my legs is too big in the waist. Gotta wear a belt or I get plumber's butt. They are quite comfortable in a wide range of temps and levels of exertion, and more durable than the REI Mistrals. They have an unobtrusive elastic cord at the ankles and well-placed pockets (accessible when wearing a harness).

Well, I'm already a millionaire, so I don't need the prize money.

nah, i'll let someone else more skilled do it...

I failed four times on the North Face of Chair last winter without ever leaving Seattle.

I was in pretty much exactly the same position as you, KK (had an REI Shasta, got tired of the size/weight, wanted to be able to use a smaller pack for climbing overnights). I bought a used ~20-deg. down bag that just fits, has kept me warm on 3-season Cascades trips, and packs down half as big. I've usually got some kind of insulating jacket along with me, so I can sleep in that if I get cold. The ol' Shasta is strictly for car camping now. For winter, I have a 0-degree down bag. I don't think I'd be warm enough in anything else on a cold winter night... like the time on a ski trip to BC where water froze two feet from the stove.

I'm a millionaire in Zimbabwean dollars and have seen a bun dance in a cartoony baked goods commercial. Alas, I am not having conversations that you are liking to be in. You should hook up with that Dwayner guy, he's training to onsight 5.13 to win a bet.

You could put it on Library Ledge for public enjoyment.

http://www.phat5.com/features.asp?StoryI...;StoryYear=2005

When exactly was Twight reincarnated as Steve House, anyway? Is is karmic punishment for all the times Twight has slagged gumbies that he is forced to relive his career as an alpinist over and over in other people's bodies? The Squamish article made the whole issue worth it.

The cheapest ones that fit the best. You'll shred them with your crampons anyway. Better yet, get cheap softshell pants from MEC--every day out this winter I wore them and girls say they're hot.

Yeah, was it a pretty old movie? I saw it, some pretty decent climbing footage, with a gnarly chimney. The Mountain, with Spencer Tracy, that's it... from 1956.

Is that a picture of Klenke finally snapping in the face of an impenetrable bushwhack?

"2 Ti blades"... is that Jim Nelson? Looks awesome!

Did you just move to Cap Hill, Jay? You'll love it!

Oh man, up that fall factor by .1 and you sure woulda been fuct. That's a two-tentacle-ripping fall for sure. Close one there.

They'd grease right out of their harnesses as soon as they weighted the rope. Looks like the yellow one is the instructor of the group, what with the whistle and all. This must have been what the Mounties were like in the 80s.

Thanks, Matt! The flavor of the month effect, even before cc.com existed...