specialed

Will accesory cord suffice for a 6mm rap line?

Dude where did you find those pics of me? Those are from my former glory days in the Special Olympics. I competed in all those events in the pics, but the sport climbing comps for "special" people was what I was mostly interested in. Unfortunately, I could never decide what type of rope system would be best to use so I kept getting disqualified before I even tied in. Darn.

As if I care if Capt. Crunch saw my comments before I erased them. I did so simply at the polite suggestion of mikeadam.

danpatsmith: thanks for the beta. I've talked to someone at mtn gear and asked if they carry this item or a similiar one and he says they don't. Maybe I'll ask about a 7mm though. Thanks.

Can anyone answer my question? Fishsick? Alex? Anyone... Anyone... Buhler... Anyone...

What are you talking about? you're making this way more complicated that it is. This whole post has been discussing the pros/cons of different rope systems. One of the sytems discussed is a single rope system (9 - 10 mm) with seperate 6mm rope for rappeling in case of retreat or if the descent required rappelling. I was simply asking people who have used this system what type of 6mm rope they have used and where they got it. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-22-2001).]

People in the mountains, and in general, should be responsible for their own actions. If you want to solo, go right ahead, but if you get fucked up or die then tuff shit. Soloing is awesome, but its personally irresponsible to do it when you're not feeling super strong and in control. BTW, did anyone see the new Master of Stone with D. Potter soloing the Nose, "Don't touch me!"

Smoot's guide covers the Mazama rocks area. Its supposed to be similiar climbing to Si, and exit 38. Bolt clipping rhyolite. There's a climbing/outdoor store in Winthrop, but I don't know the name of it.

pyslocybin mushrooms.

Tangerine Trip, Mescalito, Peyote Dreams... no drugs involved in putting up those those routes. When Henry Barber did the second free ascent of Stannard's Foops at the Gunks he went up took a fall, lowered down, drank a beer, went up again and fell, lowered, drank another beer, went up and sent it. Just Remember: "Smoke Pot - Check Knot"

Canada's record is way worse than ours as far as exploiting natural resources in wilderness areas. Or maybe they just have more wilderness areas to exploit?

I drive a similiar setup that's the-bomb for climbing trips - 85 Ford E150 conversion van, with a 302. Its not a super complex setup like you've described but it works fine. I've just got a raised up full-size bed with lots of storage underneath. I've found its easy to just keep a Coleman double burner and cook outside though. There's plenty of room for ateast two people, and a dog, to sleep and live comfortably. Its not great on logging roads or even windey highways, but its great on interstates, and once you get were your going your set. And gas mileage sucks ass. I would like to get a rocket box or something similiar for more storage. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-21-2001).]

There was this article in R&I a couple months ago that had this humorous "climber quiz" in it. It had multiple choice questions with humorous answers. One of the funniest questions was: what kind of rig do you drive?: a) toyota pickup b) subaru wagon c) aging cargo van. I thought it was funny since I've owned each at one point in time. Anyway, my vote is for a 4x4 Toyoto Pickup as the ultimate climber rig. Great clearance, good mileage, super reliable, can put mad shit in it. Downside is a little light in the back for paved icy roads and can't live in it in cold weather.

It seems to me that always having to put a rap biner on slings is just one negative of this system. I am trying to decide between a twin rope system (two 8mm's) or a 9.4 single rope and a 6mm trail line for alpine rock routes. They're both about equivalent weights. But the single rope system will allow you more versatility if the route has some aid pitches on it, and would be simpler to use. On the other hand twin ropes can take more falls and rapping with them would probably be easier. I was trying to determine whether rapping with a 6mm and a 9.4mm would be such a pain in the ass that it would make it preferable to get twin roupes instead. Any input?

One might argue that America's foreign policy during the 80's and 90's (and probably continuing into this decade) was essentially an example of the inherent contradictions of Wilsonian idealism. Since roughly the first world war, America has attempted to promote peace and stability in the world (contemporary anti-WTO types would say this is based on a desire to propagate the neoliberal paradigm, i.e. exploit markets), while on the other hand expressing a desire to promote our ideals of self-rule and liberal democracy. Unfortunately these ideas do not go hand in hand, and more often than not contradict eachother. Examples would be Reagan selling arms to the Contras to sustain a balance of power in South America, and support of Iraq against Iran in order to maintain a BOP in the mideast. And of course, all of the other instances where America had authoritarian puppet regimes all over the world. Oops, this doesn't have anything to do with climbing. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-21-2001).]

Does anyone have any experience using a 6mm static line in conjunction with a larger diameter rope, like a 9.6, to rappell with? I can't think af any reason why it wouldn't work, but I've never tried it myself.

Dude, you can camp anywhere you want around Squamish. That's why its so dope. I recommend the Gazebo in the park in the middle of town. But if you do camp in the pay area, be sure to pay. The 1st time I ever went to Squamish, I had the camp ground attendent track me down at the coffee shop the next morning because I tried to poach my camp site. He was remarkably polite about it though. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-20-2001).]

Dude, Sharma's way passe, didn't you hear. The new sport idol,love monkey, media darling is Dave Graham. He's totally my hero because he's in all the mags, all the time. Though, as you pointed out, Christian G. has way more style than both of them.

Alpine Tom: what is the point of mountaineering/climbing literature then? if no one is interested in a "heartbeat-by-heartbeat account of someone else's climb?" Are famous works like The Savage Arena by Joe Tasker or Simpson's Void really "spray" about "beating one's chest, and impressing other climbers, rather like peacocks flaring their tails and rattling them at each other." Any of these celebrated climbing accounts use jargon or slang such as "manky" or "sick" or "gnarly" to describe objects and situations. Every subculture has its own lexicon. All I was trying to show is that climber-jargon has a place in our communication(verbal or written)because it is colorful, informative, and widely understood among climbers.

A revised description of a recent climb conforming to the politically-correct, anti-jargon atmosphere of this post: "I positioned my right leg behind me to use counter pressure to keep myself positioned on the rock face while I reached up quickly for a very small and thin hand hold that I could only get two fingers on. The quality of the rock was very bad. I could tell that it lacked the proper quantities of silicon that would bond it together well. My last spring-loaded camming device was very far below me and situated at an angle unconducive to holding a large amount of kilo-newtons. I was scared. I pulled up hard on the very small hand hold and managed to reach up higher to a very large handhold. It was a very interesting climb." Excitement just eminates from the words, doesn't it.

Does anyone have any experience using a 6mm static line in conjunction with a larger diameter rope, like a 9.6, to rappell with? I can't think af any reason why it wouldn't work, but I've never tried it myself. [This message has been edited by specialed (edited 06-21-2001).]

Nolanr, would you say there was enough snow still in the Ingalls lake basin when you were up there to ski ? if so, could you speculate whether there was enough snow there that there would be some left after this semi-warm week we are currently having? Any beta would def. be appreciated.

NO dude that's Christian Griffith you've been lusting over. He shaves his legs and wears bakinis too, just to fool dudes like you. Anyway, for the most part I have to agree with the basic tenents of Pope and Dwayner's arguments. You shouldn't say you climbed or freed something when you dogged up it. And I'm not trying to legitimize some super-lame euro hangdog technique and say that its cool to spend months working a 6 bolt slab of rock just to say you can climb 5.13 or whatever. But in real life, even the best climbers end up falling or hanging sometimes to work out parts of a route. If you see that video of Lynn Hill freeing the Nose, she falls, dogs, and rehearses quite a bit before she redpoints the difficult pitches like changing corners. If your personal ethics say to lower and pull the rope after every fall, well good for you. I totally respect that. That's hard-core, old school bad-assness. And, like you said, the predominant ethic before sporto climbing in the 80's. But I also think that for all the questionable ethics that new wave climbing emplores, it has contributed to pushing the standards of climbing in all realms (even alpine) and breathed some new life into an old sport (or religion or way of life or whatever). I guess if you think of cragging as practice for the big mountains it doesn't matter what you do one way or the other (exc. chipping, gluing, etc.) Well my 2 cents worth anyway. And Pope, thanks for not taking my cracks about being old too seriously.

Pope, if I had come up in your day I would probably be scared to fall too, and would probably limit myself to a couple falls a year. I wouldn't really be looking forward to taking whippers on a hemp rope tied around my waste, or if you were lucky a testicle-popping Whillans harness. And I've seen some of that stuff you guys used to call "pro", the manchine nuts and akward-shaped stoppers. What was that saying you old timers had, oh yeah, "the leader shall not fall." That's cool man, there's nothing wrong with being old Pope. I can respect your old school attitude. Even though at your age, even thinking those dirty thoughts about Katie Brown would be considered pedophilia.

good answer. thanks.