specialed

South Tacoma Way strippers aren't good enough?

While the route might go in a day, the grade infers the approach as well. I have not done Nooksak, but I think the standard is to bivy above Price Lake the night before. So a standard ascent would take two days. Most routes on Early Winters are III's. Except maybe for some on the longer east face, like East Butt of South Early, which I think is a IV.

There is also lots of great free climbing there

Sad, very sad, sad, sad, sad performance. The rule for Vegas is one hour partying for every two pitches of climbing. So sounds like you're in the hole for maybe 40 pitches or so. Routes on the panty wall don't count.

They all suck. Index sucks.

V means it would take the average party two days to do the route car to car right? That is a pretty broad definition so between two routes that are rated V one might be more committing, harder, or take longer than the other. It offers a good general picure of time commitment for a route that's all. Makes sense to me.

You're going... you tell us.

Dylan is planning to climb either grid bolted choss, grid bolted choss, or perhaps grid bolted choss.

The sad thing is its all actually true. The names and faces have been changed to protect the innocent, but the stories are true from the long and strange climbing careers of Dwayner and Pope.

Mine's definetly bigger.

Good points Matt. I wouldn't hesitate to travel in similiar valleys when I though avy conditions were considerable and just stay out of well known slide paths. But I do think this year's weather patterns and events have been unusual and have contributed to the formation of some very weak and funky (hoar frost) layers, as often happens in years of low snow pack.

Well now you know bitch.

Epinephrine: 6 hrs car to car, or 6 hrs on the route?

Clearly extra high avy danger in that area right now. They've had a wierd ass winter. Really dry and cold fall and early winter, then warm and wet, and then cold. Now warm spell again apparently. I'm sure their snowpacks got all sorts of funky layers goin on right now... sketchy. I'd personally stay away from Roger's pass unless conditions were more normal and stable. Ofcourse its never going to be perfectly safe but safety's relative.

Bring lots of sawed-off and baby angles for shallow angle placements

"It was too local," i.e. it didn't mention Boulder or Yosemite once. How do you expect to get anything published in the mags when you don't make one reference to Estes Park, the Diamond, or speed climbing El Cap? Noone wants to hear about the PNW because that might actually infer that Boulder isn't the center of the universe. Maybe if you wrote an article on the history of climbing in Boulder Canyon you might get published... no wait someone already did that.

Did the freaky deeky with my woman at the base of the Cerebrus Gendarme in Zion. That was good times.

Yeah the AAJ needs to get on the ball with that. Look at Canada. There hut / hostel system rocks (except for that little prick working at the hostel in Lake Louise who told us to stop sorting our gear because it was too loud and the no nudity policy in the sauna, that one italian hottie was about to strip for me too).

Yeah but atleat Vogue ads have hot chicks in them. They should have a climbing mag that just has Brittany Griffith and Rachel Babkirk and other hotties who crank. To hell with all that other bullshit. I'd subscribe.

probably because its just a big informal party. And of course because MattP said he was going to be there.

I'm not even really into surfing, but the best magazine out there is Surfer's Journal. It has long high-quality articles, unique and amazing photos. Interesting sections on off-beat topics like surfer-art. Not a bunch of spray about what the latest fab surfer idol ate for breakfast. As a whole it skips the hype and offers a true, down-to-earth, content oriented presentation. I think most mags including Climbing and Cock & Lice talk down to the reader assuming you are a follow-the-crowd, worship the climbing idols poser. The mags drop more names than the MTV music awards. They just assume I want to go to the latesy Ouray Ice Fest stand around and socialize bullshit competition gathering. There needs to be a climbing mag that follows the Surfers Journal lead and focuses on content, the soul of the sport and not the hype.

Any of Pete Boardman or Joe Tasker's books are rad. Those dudes were tough. They spent a lot of brutal cold time on steep technical ground in the Himalaya. Changabang anyone? Anyone who wrote a book about that whole dumb-ass tourist death thing on Everest gimme a fuckin break. That whole fiasco, like the scene on Everest, is the antithesis of climbing and isn't even worth the paper its printed on.

Pope you're a stud. 1. Shooting Gallery on Mt. Andromida (as practice for Andromida Strain). 2. Anything else rad in the Canadian Rockies 3. N. Face Nooksak Tower 4. Central Pillar and Central Coliour on Joffre 5. Life on Earth on Habrich 6. Fun cragging with the homies

Everything that is wrong with sport climbing

There's a lot to be learned from sport climbing, but I find that too often those that only "sport-climb" tend to take themselves much too seriously. Flash you are clearly not an exception to this stereotype