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Everything posted by plexus
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Funniest thing about NOLSe post...the First Time I climbed with my wife, we did a couple of pitches I lead to a big grassy bench. From there we top roped a few more climbs above us. I pulled the rope and told her I would clean the anchors if she coils the rope. I come back down to find her laying on top of the still uncoiled rope. "What's wrong?" "Everything is spinning." Thankfully she has gotten off the meds that gave her the spinning which led into migranes. But I still climbed with her. After all attractive women that clean up nicely yet can climb and go on three week backpacking trips without showers are rare to find!!
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Careful with those Prana tops guys, you might pull a tendon!!
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You made me piss my pants!! Now I have to go change my boxers!!
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Mine started rusting after the first season of having them, and they have lasted five more years now with no problems. If you filed them to get more of a point, it seems like they rust quicker. Like what Mister Mo said, it isn't really going to make much of a difference.
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There are some aid routes in The Cirque. They are listed in the old Erie guide.
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Sniff...I miss Erie. Looks like the base of friction slab. A nice day is starting at the bottom parking lot, head up Skyline Rib, do some of the bolted routes on the right side, class 3-4 it up to the big bench at the base of Friction Slab, climb up that, hike down to Powerline and take some of the sketchy-pro routes like Lone Tree on the right hand side of the wall (to the right of the big dirt streak). And enjoy the hike down, unless the trail is muddy, and try not to slide down on your ass. Give my best to Dallas when you see him out there.
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Five stoppers that slipped out of my hand in Yosemite three pitches up. Several more stoppers at various skittish rappel stations. Couple of camera lenses and a goo packet. That last one really bugged me!! Damn these man hands!!!
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* Great granite dome in Renton.
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Moose up in the western slope Strange dancing lights in the sky Huge transportation lane for pot smuggling by Canyon Creek Rd The glaciers are actually EXPANDING A sheep got away from Dru unharmed
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When did you install a toast into that Devil's Club-choked gully that you call home?! If you want walkable crust, I can tell you from yesterday that the Indian Peaks Wilderness here in Colorado has plenty of that. Scourged by wind, I got stymied by styrofoam up a couloir because we didn't bring our crampons or ice axes. What's up with the lack of snow up there? My friend said that Snoqualmie isn't even open yet.
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They lost all of the prototypes this summer climbing in the alpine and now they are in some nest up in the Bugaboos!! That's going to be one bad-ass climbing snaffle!!
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Don't give "Speedy Dan" any ideas there Stefan!! And from experience, take things in Smoot's guide with a grain of salt. Any of the "Climbing (insert name of state here)" series from Falcon are not that good and should only be used as primers for finding out where climbing areas are. The Climbing Colorado is full of inaccuracies and I rarely use it. I would think only the select few of ultra hikers and lightweight packers would make it roundtrip in a day. Having been up Crater, I think a person would be remissed for speeding through an area with it's own scenic beauty and vantages, that I think are rather unique.
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I've heard that about McCurdy Tower. Actually the wife and I were supposed to go up there a couple of weekends ago, had it planned since last winter. Weather forecast wasn't good so instead we went to Crested Butte/Taylor Canyon and squeezed in a lead and some bouldering before getting dumped on for three days. I've head that McCurdy is cool and the pics are what made us drool to begin with. We climbed past the Headstone, We saw some fun 10s on it the way out. Heading down to the Plattey this weekend. There is so much out there and anything with more than a 10 minute walk will be devoid of people. I guess that is the one nice thing about out here.
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There's some good granite down in the Plattey. And there's also some crumbly stuff, have had the pucker factor over on Poop Point near Cynical. Went to Devil's Head for the first time yesterday and now I know why my friend always talks about it. Perfect Pike's Peak granite, any type of climbing you could want gorgeous views, absolutely no people. There is just about everything for everybody, even though the guidebook lists a plethora of stiff stuff and the area is known for its 11s and 12s, I led up a 5.8 on gear that wasn't listed and another 5.7 line that I connected to a bolted climb at the anchors. It has to do with that 2.5 mile approach we took. It's funny with all of the outdoor stuff you can do in Colorado, I can't believe how many fat people there are in Denver .
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[TR] Mt. Watson- North Face/Ridge 8/15/2004
plexus replied to Bill_Simpkins's topic in North Cascades
Hmm, I climbed this with my friends about five years ago and I don't remember there being any crevasses on the glacier. I remember doing the West Peak in one cruddy pitch, rapping off a small tree, hiking back up to the col, crossing over (kinda nervous since it was rather steep) and getting over to the main route that Kloke put up. I remember the pro being spread out and the rock quality being less than desired. But hell, any day in the mountains is better than a day in the office. It must be because of the low snow year that they were opened. Still, great views from that peak. I remember we practiced our z-pully skills on the way back. It started snowing on us as we crossed the lowest rock band, and I don't think it stopped snowing until the next May. Always meant to get back and do the Watson/Bacon/Hagen/Blum circuit. -
You'd be able to get up about 2-3 more miles before cutting a right onto the other road after the snow melts. I'd second either take a bike or skis (depending on season). I'd never do the route without one of the two again.
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My recommendation would to go to a gear shop and get a good fit. Find something that fits you comfortably, or as close as is possible. For a day pack this isn't really that big of a deal. But I got my REI Aconcagua fitted and set to my body and I absolutely love. I can carry everything in it, it compartmentalizes great, and I've taken it on a couple of climbs this winter/spring, carrying shovel, snowshoes, crampons, pickets, alpine rope, rock gear, etc. And I still have beaucoup room. True it is a "backpacking pack" But the thing's been a dream for me for big gear days as well as an overnighter with gear.
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It would be good form to tag a summit up in the Valhallas and leave the man's compass at the top.
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Small little cornice there on the summit, huh?
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[TR] Damnation Peak- A Southern Gully then the South Ridge 3/1/2004
plexus replied to klenke's topic in North Cascades
Never knew there was a logging spur up towards there. If I had known that, It might not have been one of those peaks in the Beckey guide that were filed under "Not to do". Thanks for the enlightenment and glad you had a good time. Triumph in winter must have been a sight. -
I've never used WC Zeros and I only have the blue Alien. It is a great piece that I feel comfortable with and seem to make a bomber placement with no matter the situation. My only complaint is I lent mine to a friend once and got it back looking like it got gang-raped by a pack of #4 Camalots!! Also the price could be a wee bit more economical.
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I have found flagging to be useless way more often than useful. When you're in the brush, you look for any signs of a trail, find flagging, and find yourself on a steep forested dropoff (happened several times). I trust my instincts. As for those poorly scratched out trails in brush, if they're poorly scratched out, then they really aren't going to be a much better alternative than just romping through the Devil's Club. As for shit and TP, scrambled legs, do us all a community service and go burn all the TP you find, that way it will be gone and you'll be happy, and you'll be gone burning TP, and we'll be happy not to hear your sad, sad comparisons.
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Eagles, vultures (really comforting on a sketchy route), hawks, they're all there all the time. I think it was more infrequent NOT to see a raptor on a trip to Erie, especially if you go to the Main Wall, Skyline Arete or Powerline areas.
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Dallas probably placed that lost arrow back in the 70s!!