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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. I just secured permission to do an interesting project that I would love to share with all interested. I realize that I need to borrow a helmet cam for the project though. I have to use my hands. As some of you know I build high-rises and am hoping to do a tr from the urban heights. It totally translates to climbing as I do it many times per day on our own kind of fall-arrest devices. Too bad I just finished a 42 story before I got this idea, but I am on a pretty interesting 19 story hospital right now. If anyone has a line on a rig I can take responsibility for a couple of weeks for, I would greatly appreciate it, Wayne
  2. Great question and poll Darrin. I have often wondered about the weird demographic of the sport. It is always in flux, but I picked lower down the poll. I think there a bunch of em. Or maybe it just seems so when I see 30 parties on SE butt of Cathedral in Toulome.
  3. Thanks to all of you inspired by this great tr from Steph! It is great to see it and again enjoy the trip myself. I'll share a few bits of the different trips and stories from my view and then be on the lookout for the coming trs from this next weekend to come! The N. Butt. attempt in 2007: Mike and I were shocked to be so dead-ended on a route when we tried the rock buttress to the left of the gully. A deep and rotten fault running across it from left to right forbid the 2 cocky aspirants further progress. I was totally put off before our high-point, by the chaotic and unnatural climbing, for the 4 pitches leading up to the fault itself. Too bad, you cant get them all.. I had the Thread of Ice route in the far back of my mind, but the chance to climb with one of my favorite photographers was not tot be missed! Ah and a new route possibility too, well-heck-of-course-yeah! Looking for true adventure? It can be nice to not have the topo and trip report beta all laid out. I did have a hunch it would be a nice line, and it was- the topping off of a great season of ice climbing. We had perfect snow-ice conditions for ease of travel. An easy to swing-into surface was so safe feeling, we put in very little pro, and all of it rock along the side. We coulda put in a sport line of pickets but a screw was not to be had. It curved around a lot so it makes you wonder what is ahead. It narrows nicely at mid height and stays tight all the way up to the top. It starts at 40 then gets gradually steeper and a the top it pushes 60 degrees. We simoed with the occasional lead switch to give the calves a break. The summit horn offered a surprisingly stiff crux for its grade, but climbing it in gloves because the ice coated both side of the hand-jams prolly made it seem worse. Crazy summit, go see for yourself---!!! Dont be fooled by the sweet smile, Steph is as tough as they come and such a great attitude towards life too. We truly enjoyed the whole weekend except for the complicated descent stress and the rain showers on saturday night (after the route ). We also padded our summit counts by bagging both of the Twin Needles. Rockin good time in the mountains! Thanks to Steph, Mike, John Scurlock, and John Roper for the infinite beta-base, W On Page 2 of this thread, I just loaded the movie from the trip!
  4. Crap ,Pullman?? The suck
  5. Some nice looking granite up there! Good work. What is the line on the wall to the left of the spire there?
  6. Shout to Holly, Hope you have a solid and fast recovery!
  7. What link-up are you going after that goes from Challenger to O-H Col? Or is that a different trip? A little tease here.. there should be a tr soon about an fa done on the N face of the Southern Pickets up soon!
  8. O-H col is in great shape in both directions right now..
  9. Nice achievement!
  10. GO Pope. I thought it ws ballsy and a tiny bit funny. Something good could come from it. The "Other Trip Reports Forum" is a great idea.It would be cool to see other interests that people here are into. I would do a whitewater rafting tr for sure.Replace the pirates forum w/it?
  11. Bump, This is today, Looks like something worth attending.
  12. 2nd the "it helped me" add, "many times" to it.
  13. Did Wildcat and Gooseegg yesterday. Very fun! Here are some Pictures No ticks, just t-storms.
  14. Actual "Black Diamonds" are worth hella-ton of cash on the black or, the straight up market. If he tapped their collection,That guy is so bling!I know that I paid my share into that kitty!
  15. I think it is a great place to find partners. I have hooked up with dozens and havent had a bad trip yet. I am a known quantity though and enjoy teaching etc. Give it a chance, beats sitting at home. Since we are on the subject, I am looking for a partner for 2 days this weekend at Tieton. From Seattle sat and sun, Wayne
  16. Wow, nice out of the way report, Thanks
  17. I dont feel it is the better place for newbs. If you want views go do Trapper or Sourdough
  18. We were doing 5.9a+, a long time ago, jeez
  19. Like you say, it doesnt make the climbing any worse knowing who did it first. It is cool though when you are climbing and you dont have all the topos and beta to draw from. It might as well be an fa if you know nothing of it. I am just glad to have done such an incredible route and to have helped document its appeal. There was a large back off set up below the poison pill that blocks the top of the 1st pitch. We cleaned it and at the end of a long pitch, I drilled a belay bolt below the roof, was it still there? With old gear would it have been possible to make a good belay there without that bolt, and I believe I put in a good pin there as well? I saw no evidence of a belay set there prior. This route though- It is the real deal.
  20. Wow.is there a link to the club site?
  21. Way to get the early worm, and complete a jacket collection!
  22. I believe he is relocating to New York to get his wife into medical school. I would cut him some slack. I didnt get the idea he wasnt appreciative in his discourse. I personally know him and he is a great guy. I have been in his situation and it can be embarrassing to be hurt and in need of assistance. I have been the rescuer too. It too is humbling. Learn from the lessons and I hope you are not the one needing to be rescued some day as well.
  23. Great , just great, thanks Jake
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