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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. Arach is so fat all the way. A direct finish is begging for your tools. Look for the window guys, as long as it doesnt get too warm
  2. Nice! I think that is the Kellogg/Aylward line? Splitshot
  3. Wow, there really is ice in Washington? Seriously though, Congratulations on the historic ascent you guys!
  4. Thanks, we were up at 5 am from our 8000' camp and summited at 10 am. Waiting to thank the guy who gave us an apple at the summit.
  5. Nope , it is on the video as "unclimbed". I am leaving for your generation. Dont make us Washingtonians poach all of your good lines!
  6. It looks like the left line,"Unclimbed Ice" just got done and the ice on the wall is in good still. Way to step up Guys! I think there are several possibilities on that left wall.There are a few more cool looking lines to fill in around Arachno as well.
  7. Trip: Mt Hood - FA-Center Drip-Black Spider Date: 3/6/2010 Trip Report: [video:vimeo]9993722 Over the last 23 or so years, I developed an interest (read: obsession) with the ice climbs up an obscure volcanic wall on the East Face of mt Hood. I first viewed the face while doing a solo ski traverse around the upper Mt. Hood in 1987. Jeff Thomas’ Oregon High book had some questions looking for any information on the Eiger like wall. The hook was very set, as it was basically untouched and offered 6-10 big climbs around 1000' feet tall. Without any info, I started a campaign of exploration up its many ice routes with great results. Steve Elder and I did the first ascent of the main wall in feb-94, followed by a couple other routes that were nothing less than astounding alpine climbs of the highest order. Then I began a long series of attempts on the “Center Drip”‘ that took the best line on the entire face. Finding never-ending setbacks with weather and conditions, my patience wore thin after more than a dozen attempts. It finally came together this March with reports of Ice on the wall from 2 great sources. My local Pullman partner , Beau- accompanied me on our successful bid. The climb went so very well.We did it in blocks with 4 total pitches , the final crux one was a full 60 m of airy positioning. The route was an instant classic and deserves many ascents in the future. Besides incredible ambience, It is a very doable route as well.We had a great time on this wonderful classic climb. Enjoy the pictures and video, It felt really great to wrap up such a project. I will do a blow-by blow if wanted and I must promote the new Climbing Guide to Mt. Hood expected out this fall! As always, looking forward to your trip report, Wayne My 38th ice pitch this season.
  8. Great report, Who's blog is that?
  9. Thanks guys, I am sure they are in, The Spider was medium to fat. I have finished the video and will post it soon. There will be a tr posted in the ice climbing forum.
  10. Thought I would post the news here first, since the pictures were a big part of the story. After 14 tries, We finally got the Center Drip done on the Black Spider. Thanks you guys for the pics and the stoke. I left a few details on my blog. There should be a fine tr soon
  11. Yes, it was scary from an avvy slope perspective and very deep snow. You made the right call.
  12. I like monos for everything except crappy alpine ice, but can seem to loose them on that either
  13. Good to see few of these got done!
  14. Great Dane! Always wanted to say that.
  15. Love it! Great shots of Dome and pooch.
  16. Giving your secret up early? Thats my style too. wtf
  17. From the old site. fwiw Ok, Here is where I make a point that I have wanted to make for a while. There are different definitions of "Traverses" Old style traverses of the Pickets and other ranges use to be nothing more than crossing the crest of a range and maybe a summit or two along the way. I dont mean to minimize anyones efforts. I have the utmost respect for the all adventurers Then there are true "Summit Ridge Traverses" that almost always stay on or near the crest of the ridge that connects the summits.That is what I am trying to represent here on this page Then there are enchainments. They meander anywhere and do summits or routes along the way. I believe these are the unwritten rules of this particular game that I am trying to show here. I welcome differing opinions. Enjoy the page!
  18. Nice tr Iron, just to allay your worries. the snow on the traverse was crotch deep w/o snowshoes. We came down it and could barely get one leg over the other.
  19. Nice tribute Tyler. His name was always next to the more aggressive guide book entries in the 1st guide. Cant believe only 2 years! Would be cool to hear more.
  20. Beckey Bible: " Follow the arm through timber to the ne face cirque. Turn the N buttress to its west. A box chimney accesses the lower face near its center. A snow gulley leads to an ice ribbon that connect the lower face with the upper snowfield, the upper snowfeild lead to a final section of mixed climbing" Sounds like they were way around the corner?
  21. OOO! Looks like there is some ice on the Cooper Spur.
  22. whoa-suffer-log
  23. lol
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