wayne
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Everything posted by wayne
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[TR] Juno Tower - Clean Break (IV, 5.10b/c, 1500') 7/11/2013
wayne replied to Steph_Abegg's topic in North Cascades
My understanding is that a lot of parties on juno get off route after the first 2-4 pitches, Maybe the supertopo has the best idea? Can you weigh in on that Steph? It was nice to run into you again, btw! -
Trip: Boving Route, SEWS - NW Face Date: 7/10/2013 Trip Report: I must pay tribute to an inspirational climber that put up a set of truly amazing climbs. One can only imagine what Paul Boving would have gone on to do, if it weren't for his untimely demise back in 1977. Here are a few of his best: ROTC Thin Fingers ( Did many times) Boving Route, Dragontail NW Face North Early ( I did it in '03) NW Face, South Early, The route that Vern and I just did ,7-10-13! The day before however, I did a solo of the SW Butt of Cutthroat Peak. I wish I could say good things about the route, but the views were spectacular. Having only done a couple of Paul's finest, I was wary of his route on South Early Winter Spire. It had the makings of a brawl with 3 stiff pitches, the first 2 are the cruxes. Never mind doing them in the cold morning shade. I took the first one, and found it to be techy, balancey, and insecure. At the last 20 feet of the lead, I got suckered into some chalk to the right, shoulda gone straight up and left of that finish. The 2nd lead also offered great pro, it is a core workout on rattly locks in a flared thin crack. Though a short lead it is also sustained the whole way, Super fun, yet the Boving Double Roofs offer another spin on the boldness of our past explorers. Just make sure your follower is strong, not a fun fall off this one. We finished the route in a simo, and the summit is becoming a place of great celebration for me as of late. Thanks to Vern, Pro Mt Sports, and Paul, for yet another great experience! More on my journal.
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found, thanks
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Anyone want to climb the Passenger? It is said to be the best rock climb in Wa state. I have until wed, then its back to work. I could lead it all, but would rather Swap, thanks, Wayne
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Nice! Made a run at that one myself, got botched on the approach. Good route??
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[TR] 6 Sierra Classics(Needles, Tuolumne, Hulk) - 7/3/2013
wayne replied to wayne's topic in California
1st crux: stem/reach problem. -
[TR] 6 Sierra Classics(Needles, Tuolumne, Hulk) - 7/3/2013
wayne replied to wayne's topic in California
I know, huh? The 1st and last pictures are a party on VE. -
Looking to go to Wa Pass and do long rock routes, like Gato, Passenger,etc. Can leave tues am the 9th for the remainder of the week.Thanks
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There was a trip report on this site where someone use local kids that had motorcycles, and they would take you way in there past the closures, pretty sweet deal, but I don't remember when it was 2-3 yrs ago?
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how the fuck can you remember that? pain
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Just remember when the sh_t hits the fan on the Chilliwack trail: "They" didn't want the international trail crossing to exist, so huge trees were felled in order to rub it out, But the line is still true where the trail was and it was a pretty straight line. Also the sub alpine bush field can be circumvented a little on the left. THere are several starts possible at the base. we did the crack system just left of the huge dihedral with the back-off sling. Not a casual trip
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Trip: 6 Sierra Classics(Needles, Tuolumne, Hulk) - Date: 7/3/2013 Trip Report: I was able to keep the streak of classics going on my time off work, joining Lane on a week-long trip to the Sierras. We did Airy Interlude, Igors, and Thin Ice in the Needles. Then Blown Away and Oz In Tuolumne. Then ended up on Positive Vibrations on the Incredible Hulk. Couldn't ask for a better line-up for a week of climbing! If these routes aren't on your list, correct that error! More on personal journal
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[TR] Jagged Ridge Traverse - Hannegan Pass to Mt. Shuksan 7/1/2013
wayne replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in North Cascades
Good work team, thats a long weekend of mountaineering! I would love to see a map and link this to my traverse page! -
[TR] Liberty Bell - Beckey Route (Accident and Rescue) 6/22/2013
wayne replied to wesdyer's topic in North Cascades
As a member of the tim-fib crew myself, I hope for a great recovery as well. Thanks to the rescue squad for a clean extraction. -
BD Prophet Axe never used with several picks Sold, Thanks
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I saw it last year, and I assumed it was from the accident on A-baby. It may b hard to reach being off-route and all.
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Great shots, glad you posted this. its high on the list.
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[TR] Nooksack Tower - NE Face (Beckey/Schmidtke) 6/10/2013
wayne replied to Tom_Sjolseth's topic in North Cascades
Looks fun! Nice report, thanks -
Handsome indeed, great photos, thanks.
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Nice Darin x2, no closure on that story yet though.
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[TR] Utah/City of Rocks, much... - 6/6/2013
wayne replied to wayne's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Thanks and more smitties and chicks! -
Nice to revisit that one again , Thanks for the tale
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best of cc.com [TR] I Love the Desert - 4/28/2008
wayne replied to joepuryear's topic in The rest of the US and International.
Thanks Joe, this report made my last few years in the desert wonderful since I saw your show at Feathered Friends. -
Trip: Utah/City of Rocks, much... - Date: 6/6/2013 Trip Report: So, I have a chip on my shoulder due to the fact I tried and failed to find someone on this site to accompany on this trip. My revenge is now complete. Next time quit your job, and leave your family, and responsibilities behind!!! Just kidding, there will be another chance , Im sure. Did many routes on a 3 week long trip that went through Smith, Moab, Fisher Towers, Indian Creek, Castle Rocks, and City of dem Rocks. Teaser pics should lead you to my blog. Multi pitch routes: Snibble Tower, The Titan, Lighthouse Tower, Rimshot, Morning Glory etc, enjoy, and post often. Night Shot at Potash. Gear Notes: Pro Mountain Sports
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Thats great! Love to see this kind of climbing is still alive!!