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wayne

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Everything posted by wayne

  1. Contact David Parker on this site, I believe he has a pair.
  2. wayne

    Flu shots

    They have the flu-mist vaccine at the bartels-univ village for 35 bucks. i got mine , last year sucked when I didnt.
  3. It isnt an easy climb either. i didit solo back in 98 and an eagle was pissed cause the route went close to its nest
  4. wayne

    ALCS

    Sox!SoxSox!Sox!!SoxSox!SSox!ox!!Sox!SSox!ox!Sox!Sox!
  5. Great essay! Almost makes me glad I live here again!No for real I woulndt want to live any where else. Hope you make it back
  6. Next year you should climb the Monument!
  7. South Pickets traverse Complete North ridge Stuart Rime Dog, I-Rock East butt, South Early Winter CBR (Honorable Mention-Bear ,Comp N.Ridge)
  8. Thats Cougar rock and it makes a good adventure climb, but its of course somewhat chosse'
  9. What about Super-Traverses?. I think all 20+ sports within "climbing" will just morph a bit and increase in grade and difficuly. Dont make me whip out my chart.
  10. I have always been suspicious of that youngster
  11. Climb: Hyperspace- tr+ warning- Date of Climb: 10/2/2004 Trip Report: Saturnday, Paco and I did the amazing Hyperspace route on Snow Creek Wall. He can maybe go into more detail on the climb,as the library is now closing on me. It must be noted first that the belay just after the "Pressure Chamber" Is in bad shape due to an expanding flake that looks like it offers good stoppers. The large stopper spot almost ripped out when Eric was following and pitched out of the chamber(too much pressure,I guess). The thing that kept from completly friggin out was , I had a decent #3 camelot higher and placed a #4 soon after the grinding noise, and we had good pieces between us till he cleaned them. You could help the belay by slotting stuff-(#1) tcu,etc, down lower by your knees. or that flake could be safely trundled with some ground support? Otherwise it is an amazing climb, not to mention quite tough and long and strenous and I could come up with many more adjectives if it helps. You get the Idea. We got a late start ,noon, and we payed for it by walking out in the dark. Wasnt it the same wall as outerspace? no.. Its much more time consuming and continuously sustained. You have to do psycopath to start it . What a great pitch. Look to the the new or the really old guidebook for acurate belays etc and dont be afraid to just belay without completly stretching all the rope out. Its more complicated in routefinding until you get to Iconoclast too. At any rate good luck and dont harbour great red-point expectations either. Cheers to a great Rope-Up, Wayne
  12. Nice job guys! I enjoy the title of your thread too.so what would be the overall grade etc.
  13. It was the ridge leading directly to the summit and We should have gone right, but I think you do it lower.The drawing in the Oold Dodge book led me to that conclusion. Good job on sending it. It is a full 165 foot lead and very steep/overhanging in several spots. My partner pulled the bolts out when he followed as not to sucker anyone else into it. They are still in his garage today they were the old shell drivins. They were placed a very long time before we did it in 97.
  14. Right on Mr. Rock! Thanks for the pm, I could just tell from the smile , the guy was kool! At some point long ago someone places 2 bolts in an attempt to directly finish the route on the upper part of the ridge. From an obvious saddle way up high, they went about 12 feet up and placed what were to be back off slings. Not being brightat times, I thought I would continue up the wall in what would be the most dangerous pitch I have led in all my long career. It shook me so bad, I cried at the top belay. My partner fell repeatedly following, wondering how I got through it. I compare it to A5 - free soloing.Each limb must hold at least 50-60 pounds,etc After about 30 feet, I demanded my partner untie fom the rope and get out his knife should everything rip. Anyways I messed up and thats pretty much it ,except for I enjoyed the climb and the North cirque of Thielsen is one of the prettiest I have seen !
  15. The things in Kearny Classics for a good reason, but its a fairly serious route despite its easy rating. Good to see people getting after it. I and especially my knees, really enjoyed it with snow !around
  16. Another fun traverse!
  17. Only a dusting on the shady side
  18. Climb: Ingalls Traverse- Date of Climb: 9/25/2004 Trip Report: Just looking for a fun moderate ridge/summit traverse? Ingalls as a couple good options,... I had 1 day and no partner. (and a bit of rust after the early rains) Having never been to the Ingalls area,I decided now was a good time, there has to be good reasons it is so popular , right? Seeking the most adventure, I put the plan together of crossing all 3 summits,(under no delusions it was a "first" or anything). Trying to think of the best direction, Colin suggested going east to west might be the best way to go . So I stuck up the North ridge of the East Ingalls on exposed ridges and a little loose rock. It was excilerating to be in the high exposed places once again. The better route on the east is the one I downclimbed to get to the North Peak. The rock is solid on the South ridge and might make a more aesthetic way up. The East Ridge of the North came and went pretty quick, It was fun and at times exposed as well. I can see why the route is considered "select" . Looking down at the gathering hordes coming up the South Ridge, I wondered if there was enough room to down climb past everyone without pissing them off. It went so well though , I couldnt resist climbing back up one of the variations there, to then downclimb a second time around these nice folks. People were in great spirits, they were contemplating the coming fall rains and seemed happy to be outside enjoying the mts. The South Peak offered a nice wind down hike to its top, where yet another great veiw competed with my desire to keep moving. It didnt seem like I was racing fast, but the time to the third summit took 5hrs from the car. It is a good traverse available to all seeking sane adventure!
  19. At least Dave Mathews didnt empty his bus there
  20. wayne

    Outfoxed

    I saw it and it was disturbing to say the least. I always naturally pass that channel up because it seems like crap naturally, but I cant believe their slogan and propagation they spew in the name of urinalism! Makes me wonder about the rest of them. I think NWCN is pretty good about staying nuetral or slightly left.
  21. Yes, from the pics it looks like they did the Mc-Mem. I thought the route was quite an adventure, but pretty serious. I got off rt at the finish though,-sucked
  22. Logistics on a new scale!
  23. Nice looking rig E, Let us know the details on your send-off party when you find out!
  24. Lanes too cool to post here
  25. Mike grab Lanes photos and post a couple
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