wayne

The 2 cruxes on the roof are wet now

Colchuck -Balanced-(wet) Rock . Friggin killer route! even when cruxes are soaked.

Freakin Great Job Guys , You have Guts!

oops. I am trying to fix this got the link Fixed! These were taken with a disposable camera.

I dont expect that route will ever be repeated. Dberdink, Dragons goes up the white headwall on the NE buttress left of Dragon fly. Layton, your roomate and I intend to go for back of beyond

a little ole climb called the Waddington Traverse, Gato Negro etc.

Nice job ,How bout that Bag o Tricks?

Great story in the sept issue-04 of Climbing Magazine.Its about the FA

Second ascents have been popular lately, Here are a few climbs that havent seen a second ascent. Correct me if I am wrong please and add some more if you know of any. Diamond face, Bear Selesse East face, big wall Soviet route, Bonanza Dragons of Eden, Dragontail Dragonfly, Dragontail Solid Gold, Prussik North Norweigen? Eve Dearborn Dissapearing floor,Hardy Pickets Traverse Robbie Reid, N face

The only thing I can offer is an instinct, You will encounter much vegetation in the weakness lines in that area . Prolly some major loose rock too. Poor anchors too. Other than that it should be great! There are maybe better places to get your fix. If you are doing aid consider st peters dome or apocolypse needles. Look in the back of TOs book for other ideas, I have looked at Zuch and it just doest look fun.I also think it hasnt seen a second ascent too, Sorry I cant be more helpful. We want to hear about it if you go for it though

Here is Cruiser from Alpha web page

GREAT TRIP! Bring the good camera on that one. I am about to post more pictures onthe Sharpen the Saw thread, give me a hour and they will be up . They are amazing pics for a disposable camera

Hello , I was on it in 88 . I was guiding folks there we came in from the Ruth and went to the head of the valley and up some wall I called the Gharwall( to keep with the Himal theme) It was a pain then {2 sections of 80 dgree ice)I dont know what global warm has done to it. Then up the Lhotse face whick was fierce hard boiler plate but not to steep. We got turned back by a snow pit we dug at peak 15,000 so I know nothin of the upper part excpt its goes on forever. I believe there is an article in one of the recent mags on the 1st asc and they took a weird way that hasnt been repeated I believe. It took my buddy scott Wollums 10 or so tries to do the S butt and every party I hear from did the Japanese ramp to do it.(which I know nothing about. the route is Himal size and prolly longer than anything I have seen up there. Maybe pick something else?Or heck go for it and if you dont make it your still in great climbing areas

I was just there,but didnt do the s route. I didnt see any snow there and it only reqs 1 60 mtr rope to get down. I think they added a sweet rap station to get down on.

My take is they have a slow and confining culture that has survived for many decades even though climbing has changed . You will get some good teaching from them but they can hold back someone with ambition.Their style directly clashes with the spirit of modern climbing and its anarchist pride

Wow . you made quite a journey!

I am specially challenged. I almost had to wear it on a plane once when my bags were maxed out. I should have drooled and screamed for first class seats

Ok here is the tr. The style is written for the NW Mountain Journal. That way I dont have to write it again. Sharpen the Saw The Complete Traverse of the Sawtooth Ridge Olympic National Park, Washington Always on the lookout for new adventures, I found The Sawtooth Ridge to be a great possibility for an aesthetic traverse. I use the word “aesthetic” because I have found not all alpine ridges lend themselves well to a full crossing from end to end. Some have nasty deep clefts or shaky blocks or, like to Northern Pickets, they can be just too much. So when a natural and fun ridge comes along, its time to lose some shoe rubber! I found The Sawtooths when it came time to look for fun climbs on the side of the water I now call home. David Parker had told me had Cruiser in his sites. That led me to look into The Climbers Guide to the Olympics where I found Cruiser to be the crown of a very serrated ridge system. Having a rough year for climbing, David immediately caught fire on the project. It was fun doing the research on Cascade Climbers.com. We had no idea which was the better approach though into what the folks were calling the “Olympickets”. We did find it had the best rock and the sharpest summits in this wild range though. It was interesting to find the place also had a bad combination of steep –ass rock and sparse protection. Heavy rain made us nervous as we drove off that Friday. Was the forecast going to magically turn things around for us so quickly? We needed to get part of the ridge behind us on Saturday to have a chance of getting done an to work on Monday. A stop at the last tavern before the park was to water down our apprehensions. The stupid rain was still there when we left the place though. David had the shady yet effective idea of finding some vacant cabin carport for a dry bivy. After working on our explanation to any arrivers,, we slept to the noise of the downpour. Saturday morning, It was still overcast as we hiked the 10+ miles into Flapjack Lake. We gave up all chance of getting on the climb that day when it was very thick at 6 pm.. Serious concerns crept into our ambitious plans. It appeared we would need Monday if we wanted to finish. It was great to see it finally clear as we want to sleep at the base of our first objective: Alpha With all the many peaks we went over David was later to say the whole trip was a blur. Alpha is one of those for me too except I do remember it was about getting to that big tree in the gully and barely 5th class to get over its 2 summits. Whatever it offered us was forgotten once we saw Mt. Cruiser .Its Northeast face was a great introduction to what fun lay ahead: Steep and exposed climbing with sporty and little pro. For the first time we saw the long road ahead that leads to Mt. Lincoln. It would not be easy or quick to get through. After a satellite peak was crossed, we found David ready to get after The Needle. He thought it would be good to leave our packs at the base and scoot around the base after we come down. I had the feeling there was a nasty chimney to contend with on the other side. Sure enough we couldn’t even see down the crack on the other side it was so steep. 5.11 chimneys must be just grim. Above that notch lay one of the greatest leads on the trip. The first of 3 summits on Castle Spires led up vertical face to an almost overhung arête! We were so stoked to find such quality and charm to a peak we did not even expect to be on! The other 2 Summits fall into the blur category. The Fin Though is always a vivid and amazing memory. A crazy angled face problem led to a monster chimney. This made the adventure all the more complete. Now running out of time and water. We saw the Horn was not going to let us up the straight line along the ridge direction we wanted to take so we compromised our pure ridge traverse here and went around to the standard route on its east face, which was no disappointment for any aspiring 4th class climber, really? 4th class? Our thirst drove us down to a pond at the base of the peaks where we made our second and last bivy under very bright stars. Monday we went right back up and followed a sharp ridge line over 2 minor peaks that both had tin cans at their tops. After much of tough travel we found the Cleaver to be yet another fun lead and rappelled to the great Slab Tower. It had an obvious slab arête the I begged to give a try. It may have been one of several first ascents we did on these many pinnacles. The Rectagon and Picture Pinnacle were more leads that left us wondereding if any had tried its Northeast side as well. We really made an effort to stay with the ridge and its crest. The ridge was surprisingly accommodating too except for the Horn and now the Trylon too would need extensive rap-bolting to stay with the line direction. I am not sure the place is ready for that, but establishing this would make it an incredible Traverse that I would put near the top of the list for the country we share. The North Lincoln Peak was a non-issue except for its intense and long descent. After we found its base, we ditched our packs and ran for the summit of our final peak. We enjoyed the view this time looking back to the distant Mt. Cruiser. What a long and fun climb it had been! What I had to do now was race back before my girlfriend called a rescue for us. I had mentioned it could take an extra day but was she listening at the time? The “trail “ down to the lakes may have existed but all we saw was the usual slide alder and devils club to round out the trip. The still cold brews would lessen the pain from that too as we happily reached our car again. Sawtooth Ridge Traverse Grade V+-5.7 R (old school;) August 7-9, 2004 Wayne Wallace (40), David Parker (44) .Both from Bainbridge Island. Peaks include: Alpha 1 Alpha Beta Mt Cruiser The Blob (Ok some of these we took the liberty to give our own names) The Needle Castle Peak 1 2 3 The Fin The Horn Tin Can 1 2 The Cleaver Slab Tower The Rectagon Picture Pinnacle Trylon North Lincoln Lincoln Peak Gear : 2 ropes , med rack to 3”, several small pins, tat cord.

Climb: (TR) Sharpen The Saw-Complete Sawtooth Traverse FA- Date of Climb: 8/9/2004 Trip Report: This is a quicky tr that tells of an adventure ,whereby David Parker and myself believe we were the first to traverse the entire Sawtooths from Mt. Alpha to Mt Lincoln. Aside from the main 14 summits we also did 5 other minor pinnacles on this amazing traverse. It took us 3 days in all and covered much technical ground . I will do a longer and more detailed tr later. Cheers ,Wayne and David

No the season isnt over. Go do the Suiatle~!~~~~~~~~~~~12 miles of Whitewater

Really Nice job ,Darin! Man what a cool sounding trip.Cant wait to see day 5+6

Someone mentioned Colin. Fred: There could be an award in his honor for womanizing too

We are entering the dry season. The only interesting one I know with enough flow now would be the Suiattle ( I dont think guides float it) or the tamer glacier fed ones like Skagit ,Sauk etc.\maybe the Green is both interesting and guidable. also contact companies guiding the Tieton , the open up the dams in Sept?

I cant take any thing from those names but..have those 3 been active latley? Fred shows no sign of ever letting up!! What about Woton of Ballard?

The Or chapter of the American Alpine Club is accepting nominations/votes for this award in its second year. Fred Beckey Award Alan Kearny came to mind . I cant imagine anyone truly measuring up to Fred, but I bet Alan is one of only a few who could come closest. Any others come to mind?Don Serl?