bobinc

The SMC rigid crampons are impossible to kill, as are the original wired hexes. I think Forrest Mtneering made the Titons. They also had these funky oversized 'biners called PinBins that didn't sell very well.

The truly frustrating thing about snowboarders is that even with all the stupid, ignore-self-preservation-instinct stunts they pull, their mortality rate is still many orders of magnitude below the rate of entry of new snowboarders into the mix. Unless we take action, this trend will continue and with it will come the final depredation of all that is decent and good about sliding downhill on steel edges.

Point taken, Phil, but there's so much beta on that route that even a complete beginner should be able to determine they would be fine with a modest amount of gear. The leader of the trip I saw had a double set of cams, quite a few nuts, and at least 20 runners. This despite the Mtneers sending at least two trips up there almost every weekend from late spring to early fall. Who knows, though... perhaps she was practicing up for The Nose.

Re Mtneers on SEWS: It's remarkable to see someone with what looks like a big wall rack heading up a climb that only has one or two Class 5 moves. Of course, with that much weight holding you back, you've just made most of the climb Class 5.

I'm curious why you scheduled a climb of Hood so far in advance for this time of year. The weather is usually highly mutable at all levels on the mountain and (assuming you are using the lift to get up some of the route) the high lift is often closed due to high winds. Were you going to use skis for some of the ascent? A more sheltered (and less crowded) option would be to take the tour up from Cooper Spur ski area to Tilly Jane cabin or Cloud Cap on the north side. This isn't a summit attempt but it is more sheltered and if the weather does break, you will get an outstanding view of the Eliot Glacier.

Yes, Wild Things still seems pure at heart and their equipment is definitely heavily weighted toward function. Still, paying $45 for a windshirt (even though it's the cheapest of the genre) raises my eyebrow a bit.

You must be extremely bored or perhaps posting as a result of a dare.

Hard to beat the single malt with miniature iceberg, but Knob Creek is also pretty good, especially if you can handle the extra weight of a lime.

There are many books available on this. The historic texts are useful for nuts, such as both of Royal Robbins' Rockcraft books or the older versions of Freedom of the Hills. Now that clean protection devices have multiplied, it is a bit harder to find a one size fits all guide, but the newer books in the "How to Rock Climb" series are pretty good. John Long's stuff ("Climbing Anchors") is very helpful, as well. Once your head is full of all the text, you should get out there and place a lot of gear, preferably whilst accompanying an experienced trad partner.

I nominate JayB for the Best Edited and Most Ironic message yet posted on CC this year. If only a few more denizens of the e-world would follow his lead...

I just got one, too. I had an E'weiss yrs ago and no probs. It was very easy to order via a simple e-mail.

Got in some pitches at Tieton on Saturday, lost some skin but didn't feel it because of the cold, felt lucky it was only cold and not also windy, exulted in total darkness at 5 pm, then drove back to the big city.

from the first ascent of Hozomeen, in reference to an earlier incident in a cafe where someone had spewed hot coffee on a waitress: "We traveled late at night, stopping in cafes where we were not known." Any Fred reference to "steep" or "steepening" should be taken very seriously.

As Alan Bard used to say, "the techniques and gear you use are up to you. It's all skiing." As someone who's been almost 100% tele for most of my skiing days, I'm finally coming to realize that if I only ski 10 or 20 days per year, there's no way I'm going to get the conditioning I need to ski the steeper, harder stuff on teles. That's why I'm seriously considering trying AT this year. Tele forces you to ski better or face (plant) the consequences. You have to be more active on your skis and pay attention all the time. If you have the time to ski more, then enjoy the tele. But don't discriminate against those who want to try something different.

Start on the easy stuff with a good partner and pay attention to the basics: anchors, smart placement of gear, recognition of rotten rock, etc. Remember it's a different ball game when you are placing the gear and depending on it. Oh -- it might also help to be in some sort of aerobic shape. Trad climbs generally don't feature belays from the front seat of your van.

NW Face of N Ridge of Forbidden has more than 1000 feet of steep snow (maybe ice) then a couple pitches of moderate rock. The approach makes you corkscrew around varied terrain (with tremendous views throughout). Nothing much in the way of hard rock climbing, but going around to that side keeps you away from the crowds on the other side.

A friend of mine has REALLY funky feet the kind where use of a Black and Decker sander wheel would really help) and says Mates has done great work on her boots...

It's straightforward to get over to the toe of the WS Glacier from the Mt Baker day lodge, especially when there is snow. Take the service road that goes into the woods from the lodge and more or less contour arounds through a couple of tree bands (probably 3/4 mile or so) and then head down and east, making one small ridge crossing to the toe of the WSG. We did this approach 2 summers ago (after the big snow year) and I was amazed how easy it was (given the tales of awful brush). The ascent to the top of the Arm via the WS is very straightforward, and the skiing is excellent!

One of the couloir slogs is most logical for a solo effort. These are a lot of work but nontechnical and get you up there. PS: It's spelled "Stuart".

I second that one; truly legendary potholes and so many "can I make it?" partial washouts in wet years that you lose count.

The thing of it is, now that the bloodlust has quieted somewhat, a few people are actually trying to figure out what the most effective response might be. Just as there was a lot of history underlying the Gulf War, there is a lot of history underlying what is going on now with the Taliban. Treating this as a simple case of revenge won't work to our advantage (which is very frustrating for those who wish it otherwise) and I sincerely hope that those who have their fingers on the switches of destruction have a clearer idea of what can be done than Mr. Rybolt appears to. In essence, the US and its allies have to be as crafty and devious as the terrorists. Running out into the middle of the street and shooting off your pistol might feel good, but it means very little to someone who is prepared to fly a commercial jetliner into a skyscraper.

As far as I know, MC is still private property so the owners control access to the road. It has been this way for a long time. They've struggled over the years to keep the road drivable, as washouts are frequent.

Wasn't there an avalanche up there recently (in the approach gully from GBasin?) What did it look like?

The whole climbing thing is well into flabby middle-age, and this has always been fertile ground for commodity fetishism.

It's true: REI is just too easy to pick on if you're talking about climbing gear (or boating gear, for that matter). Once they made the Big Decision to become a KMart of the outdoors in the late 70s, which entailed reselling lots of cheap clothing and getting as big as possible, they lost any ability they might have once had to offer consistently good advice. It is truly remarkable how a store with alleged "departments" can't seem to hire/retain salespeople who can answer even the simplest questions about gear. They have used the "democratic" approach for years in recommending stuff: lots of people bought that, so it must be okay. Perhaps I was unresponsive to the original thread because I haven't had the trouble with OR that you had. Years ago, when I needed an OR gaiter repaired, I absent mindedly sent in both in the pair. Not only was the one I wanted repaired fixed for no charge, the other one also came back with new Velcro and reinforcing stitching.