bobinc

Dru -- what was the Grit Roof like? We climbed on the other side of that formation one day and looked at the Roof on the way out.

Really depends on the snow pack. It's much safer once the lower approach gully has slid out and solidified, and if the upper gully is soft, it's a world class postholing experience. The upper gully is an excellent glissade once settled. Also, if you haven't been up there before, it's easy to get confused getting off the trail and transitioning to the lower gully.

"Never attribute to malice what can be explained by incompetence." -- Napolean Bonaparte

Trivia note on the Uriostes: at the last belay on Prince of Darkness, some of the original hangers are there, each imprinted with the JU (Jorge Urioste) stamp. It's amazing how many routes they put up!

Trivia note on the Uriostes: at the last belay on Prince of Darkness, some of the original hangers are there, each imprinted with the JU (Jorge Urioste) stamp. It's amazing how many routes they put up!

One way to add your voice to an existing campaing on this issue is to contact Utah Open Lands and join their campaign. They have been quite successful in protecting some crucial land parcels in Utah over the last ten years. Here's their site: utahopenlands.org

There are no technical difficulties. It's more a matter of your conditioning and performance at altitude. Assuming those are in good order, you should be able to make it up and down in a long day. And yes -- take skis.

Oops -- forgot about anchors (for some reason). Dru is right! You do need some of the bigger stuff for anchors and for some of the classic OWs, too, if that is to your liking.

Most pitches are pretty short -- <= 100'. A double set of cams through #3 plus some small/medium wires would get you through most stuff. If you're light on cams, you can make good use of hexes on most routes. If you just concentrate on sport routes, you can of course get by with even less, but since there are so many good cracks, I'd advise taking a real rack.

The Vogel guide is the bible (and there is now a shorter "Select" version) but there are others that may have advantages. (Other would have better info on that than I do.) There are 5000+ routes so it's hard to know where to start. I've only been on 50 or so but here are some ideas: Echo Rock and environs: very popular since close to the HV Campground. Home to lots of classics such as Heart and Sole, Pope's Crack, etc. Hall of Horrors: classic cracks (Exorcist, Diamond Dogs) and some good face climbing; moderately crowded. Real Hidden Valley: all sorts of moderate cracks; again, close to the road and can be crowded. Loose Lady (9+ faceclimb) on nearby Hauser Buttress is a blast. Wonderland: easy to get lost out there but less crowded because of the walk. I've only done some of the moderate routes (Room to Shroom, Mental Physics) but routes such as Figures on a Landscape and stuff at the Bighorn Mating Grotto sound outstanding. Lost Horse Wall: longer routes than most at Josh and they protect well. Dappled Mare is fun, as is Bird on a Wire. Never crowded when I've been there but that was in December (but during the Xmas break, so...) If you climb at a high level (10b and up), a whole lot more climbs are open to you, but better climbers than I will have to describe those offerings.

Wow, that does sound like a brutal few days. Too bad. There's no way your next trip could have that much pain. For what it's worth, we found a way to avoid crowds on Prince of Darkness: climb it on December 27th. It helps to have no wind and relatively mild temps (high 40s by mid-afternoon). The rock is a block of ice, though, so we climbed fast and placed hand warmers under the laces in our shoes (plus the obligatory packet in the chalk bag).

SmartWool is effective, even if it is kinda expensive. It is comfortable over a wide range of conditions and is easy to clean. It does tend to stretch out after repeated use and washings, but overall I prefer it over polypro, especially on the funk factor scale.

Either site you've suggested is great; what time?

Todd -- just thought of an actual experience. When we did the Overhang on Intersection, we noticed there was a leashed dog at the base of OH Bypass. We didn't sense the owners were on the lookout for the heat. I agree somewhat with the guys quoting the rules on dogs in NParks, but I also like dogs, so... I understand your position. It IS kind of a drag when your dog tears off into the underbrush after a rabbit and even more of a drag when it ends up with cholla spines in its pads. But many dogs do stay very close to their owner, even unleashed.

I haven't seen much of a ranger presence at JTree, even at the main campground, so I kinda doubt there is much of a problem. But then, I'm not a dog owner so haven't had to deal with the issue close-up. I must say I haven't seen any dogs there except the ones kept in the tourists' rental cars...

Peter -- take them to ProSki at 90th and Aurora. That's Martin Volken's shop. They're fast and reasonably priced.

don't see how SG can be in there without textured walls...

According to Rowland Tabor, it is Eldo Orthogneiss. I haven't been over that route, though, so don't have any on-the-ground info to offer.

Wild Turkey was Hunter Thompson's drink, too (may still be) but that was before Knob Creek et al. came along.

Thanks for the tip on the Booker's. I can understand leaving the lime home for weight reasons, but the out-and-out hostility to having it with bourbon puzzles me.

This is a very good question, especially when entire ropes are under consideration. I've been skeptical that it would be necessary to retire a rope after 3-5 yrs even if it had been stored well and not fallen on, but people who should know this, like Jim Nelson, have told me I should replace that rope. Of course, Jim sells ropes for a living, but he's also about the lowest key salesman I've ever run across.

I've been pleased with the Lafuma 32 liter model in terms of comfort and versatility. However, I'm a little worried about the gear loops, as one of them pulled out when snagged on unaggressive brush. I don't know if this is a problem of other packs but it's something to keep in mind. I've heard lots of good reports on the Khamsin.

Sayjay captured it well except he left out the SO in the tent along with the scotch. (Or perhaps the scotch and SO are one and the same.)

I was with John Sharp's group that day and can say that, whatever it's called, it's a great line and Phil and Greg acquitted themselves well on the descent (from what I could see of it). I sense your frustration, Phil. You were just out to ski and now have been sideswiped by a bunch of extraneous protocol.

Well said. I never wanted to suggest there aren't any bad, rude skiers out there, but the bozoism quotient is jus' plain higher for the ridin' group. That being said, I've had the pleasure of spending time with good boarders in the backcountry and indeed they can do amazing things on difficult terrain.