bobinc

The Cascadian is completely snow-covered. The weather has been cold enough that much of the rock near the summit is rimed. The weather is warming up, though, so that could change. The Mtneer Creek approach is annoying, but it gets you up there pretty quickly (3-4 hrs from trailhead to toe of Sherpa/Ice Cliff). We found mostly firn-like snow with some new atop on the False/True summit ridge; you should be ready to deal with this. Two axes are a good idea; if you want more security, take a couple of pickets.

We climbed the Ice Cliff on Stuart in winter conditions: heavy snow, spindrift, high winds. It pretty much opened up just as got above the Cliff, so we decided to head up rather than down. The weather broke around 2 am so the planned bivouac became more pleasant. It's been cold up there for awhile so climbing was pretty straightforward (except for the new snow, high winds, etc). No deaths to report, however. I expect Juan will file a full TR in the days ahead.

Juan -- make sure to take a 70m rope so you're always out of range for Doug's brain teasers.

I've worn my pair almost every day for 2+ yrs. They need a new sole, but I'll bet that will cost at least 1/2 the price of a new pair. Since the uppers are breaking down somewhat, I'll probably just buy the new pair.

We were in that area about ten years ago. I don't recall much difficulty in finding or making it across the 4th class section that has achieved so much notoriety. It is a real improvement over the "down and around" alternative route. We were trying to make it to Challenger but had to settle for Whatcom Peak in deteriorating weather conditions. We high-tailed it back to our campsite (about 1 mile south of the summit of Easy Peak, right on the ridge) and sat out a spectacular electrical storm (with water under the tent, etc.) Next day, we made it all the way to the Hanegan TH in one big push.

Yeah -- this item also has no side pockets or top flap. It's light, all right, but if you are actually planning on carrying anything, you might want to use something else (aka a "pack").

Worst approach: NE Buttress of Goode, especially considering the weather closed in and we didn't get past the toe of the glacier. On the way down, we almost lost an ice tool in one of the slide alder thickets when the tool loop got yanked off a pack and we didn't notice it until several hundred feet lower. We got lucky and found the hammer, at least. Worst descent: Johannesburg. Miserably slow to get from the summit area to the SW ridge (or whatever the std up/down route is), then loose, annoying travel to CJ Col. Finally, you get to dodge rocks down the CJ couloir. This climb (NE Buttress) was 13 hrs up and 13 hrs down.

Censorship isn't the same as editing (or shouldn't be). There's a big difference between the occasional typo and a sentence that is so full of errors that it's hard to figure out what is being said. It's just plain inconsiderate to expect others to decipher a badly done offering.

Yes.... maybe, finally, cc.com is THE PLACE where all grammar and spelling errors will be magically repaired. That's one of the worst parts of internet culture: learning about the generally piss-poor mechanics of all of us who seem to ahve the time to post on these boards.

Homer Art DK Mike

What do you call two guys with no arms and legs hanging over a window? Curt an' Rod

Beckey is 81, according to the usual sources, but depending on your point of view, he is either much older (because of accelerated wear) or younger (because of so many outstanding, "timeless" life experiences) than the chronological age suggests. Marton Litton, the founder of Grand Canyon Dories, and the man David Brower credited for keeping the Bridge Creek and Marble Canyon dams from being built in Grand Canyon, is pushing 85, rowed a dory all the way through at age 80, and has rowed large stretches since then. Westgard Pass (elev ~7200 ft, I think) is on the divide between Owens Valley and Deep Springs Valley. The road up to the Bristlecones and White Mtn Peak takes off from CA Hwy 168 right at the Pass.

That's a good recommendation on the spring skiing. I've done a little in the La Sals. Nothing like climbing up through the red rock, skinning way up there into the thin air, then cruising down with the good, late afternoon desert light...

For visual impact and remoteness (but not routes), it's hard to ignore the Henry Mtns in S. Utah.

I suggest we rent an RV which holds a keg and hire a driver and have the pub club at various points within a 60 mile radius of the Space Needle. There will also be a single malt tasting; bring your favorite bottle.

Glen -- take the tram up and do the Cornice run. Nothing like it!

Yeah -- I went to college near there. We used to go up and wander around in the B'cones and try to figure out which one was the oldest tree. Apparently, there was an older one in W Nevada that got destroyed some years back by dendrochronologists. They got their coring tool stuck in a tree and decided to cut it out with a chain saw. This ended up killing the tree. When they did a ring analysis, they found out the tree was over 5k yrs old! Oops.

Funny sidenote: more than a year after he started the store, I happened to ask Jim if he realized what the abbreviation would be. Totally oblivious.

Mattp, those are excellent all-around rules, whether in a bar or on a river trip. Number 4, in particular, is outstanding.

Great -- thanks, W. I think the next time down we will head over there. I assume it's not as confusing to find it as Room to Shroom (?)

Has anyone done stuff at Bighorn Mating Grotto? (I'm already scheming for next December.) I've never been out there, but someone I talked to gave it high marks for climbs in the 10 range. Vogel gives Caught Inside on a Big Set (10b?) lotsa stars but I read someone's account who had done it and was underwhelmed.

Good idea for a thread. NW Face of N Ridge on Forbidden has a lot to offer: scenery, fun climbing, and variety. Eldorado, just because of the view, the flowers way up high, and the summit ridge. Mt Anderson (Olmypics): long approach but the area around the pass and the climb are both outstanding. St Helens is always fun on skis.

Remember, it's just like the IRS says: AVOID, not EVADE.

Another good one that is well-protected (fixed) is Loose Lady (Houser Buttress near Real Hidden Valley). Excellent 5.9+ face climbing and a little longer than many one pitchers at Josh.

I grew up in the Columbia Gorge and remember a lot of bad experiences trying to communicate over gusty wind. When I got into spelunking, I learned some good, simple vocal signals that worked most of the time. But Mattp's system sounds even better. I used to make fun of the radio thing but then used them once on a longer multipitch and now see their place. I am wary of too many gadgets but on a climb where there were many sources of anxiety, the ability to communicate easily made the experience more pleasant.