Tony_Bentley

Awesome.

Looks good G. I'll go climb that.

I can get some wood from the locals. Just some, not all. I will also be presenting another video titled, "compositions". Bring a pillow.

hit me up next time. Im in Anacortes.

Still looking for partners midweek at Mt Erie. I have a rack and rope. I can get off of work and meet you there at 4:15 and that would give us at least 5 hours. I'll also buy the first round at the Brown Lantern after we climb. -Tony

I think not. $25 each? Pffft. I'll stick to stainless and replace them every 20 years. The glue ins are too expensive.

Where can I get Ti anchors? There is only a couple of places so sure that makes sense. I never found the old ones mentioned in the book.

There is another crag at Deception Pass that looks hard. I will post a photo of once I get them uploaded

Hey, I just visited it yesterday and checked out the routes that were in the old book. Thanks Peter Puget for passing that book off. I am going to start scrubbing it and will likely add a couple of bolts where there is no pro. Anyone care to be a part of it? Directions: Head to Anacortes Turn down Commercial Turn Right on 4th Follow it to the top of Cap Sant Point Head down to the right for a couple of the steep crags and down to the left for the other steep crags. There are rusted rods that will be great toprope and rappel anchors. Both crags are about 75' with a couple of overhangs and aretes that look to be at least 5.9

And get run over by speeding hondas...hahaha. That place gets little attention because it is so far from anything. Great bouldering, great potential.

I am about 5 minutes to Cap Sante Point from work and 10 minutes to Mt Erie. I would like to climb a couple of times a week at Erie starting next Monday through the fall. Have rack, rope and beers. Need belay-slaves, ropeguns and post-climb pubcrawlers.

Yeah, the open terrain and crown of rock above the lakes with the cool breeze blowing off the ridge tops makes it all good. Dave I felt more at one with the mountains when I was moving smoothly. The bugs were a good reminder that I cannot last very long without the comforts of sea level, flip flops and hops.

Trip: Mount Triumph - NE Ridge - Solo in a day. Date: 8/2/2007 Trip Report: I figured it was time to step up and do something with this summer that isn’t wrapped around music for a change. I’ve never climbed Triumph and it didn’t seem like the kind of route to persuade someone to do it with me so I shot for the alternative; free solo it. I showed up at the first lake on Wednesday night around midnight but people were camped out right next to the trail and I didn’t know where to go and since I brought a shiver sack I decided to wait until daylight. A few hours later I made a cup of joe and started working my way around the lower lake to the upper lake. I was surprised how little sign of travelers there was the entire way. Granted, not having a map contributes to going my own way and guessing a lot. Somehow I ended up at the col and the entire route was covered with snow up to the base of the route. The first pitch like most other routes shocked me into reality. “Hey Tony, you are not on belay so get moving and quit whining.” Another hour and I was looking at that offwidth. After a few minutes shooting photos on the summit I decided it was time to get going. Armed with only a 30 meter rope I began rappelling where there were decent stations. I think I ended up doing like 10 rappels but somehow it went really fast and I was down before I knew it. Getting back out I made it as far as the mouth of the upper lake before I started to epic. The black flies and mosquitoes were so bad I kept thinking I was going to die. I ran for the top of the knoll above the lake and it all went away. Hours went by, blisters forming, legs cramping, dehydration and lack of food kicking in. I made it to the car by 8:30, which was two hours before I started the night before. Although I brought all of my bivy gear and intended on using it, I didn’t. I just kept moving and the mosquitoes helped me out the entire way. On my way home I stopped for the king size Rockstar. Gets me home every time without any nodding. I noticed the weather was going sour again too. Timed it just right. Southern Pickets Looking down the ridge from the summit

Yeah I just read that TR. Not cool. Tell him to get his ass back up there and go retreive it. No one was dying, no one was in dire straights.

Great photos Matt. Thanks for those of you who could make it. Til next time.....

Yes tomorrow July 26th at Golden Gardens, West of Ballard.

Once again, we are having a pub club. I am inviting the Bluegrass and Old Time folk to come out and jam. There will be prayer flags flying at our spot. Listen for the music and follow the flags. Starts at 6pm.

I thought it was just gonna be me and you Ross. Then I saw Colin in the tail of his car reading a guidebook. Colin, you tappin that again?

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Sure. Not the easiest but the most direct. There should be a couple of cairns that brings you to the first rap station. From there I think it is like 6 raps to the base. The most difficult part is getting from the West Horn to the first station. You will want to stay on the buttress proper from the top. Sorry, kind of obscure directions but it was a while ago and it wasn't easy finding our way off. I know others have stopped short and headed towards Goat Pass instead of down the buttress.

Correct but someone needs to lead them appropriately in order to justify any bolt chopping though. So let us know how it goes.

Okay badasses. Chop the bolts and climb the routes without them. Then come back and spray about it here so we can see how bold you really are. I call bullshit. You only ACT bold because you're sitting on your ass behind a computer. Joseph, Ron climbed this route with me just after he put up those sport routes. I would hardly call it a sport climb.

Blake, why don't you skip that crag and head over to Committed on The Nuthouse? I think it is one of the coolest 5.11's I've ever led, climbed in good style with only chains at the top.

I just climbed BB for the 1st time last Thursday. Awseome.

I'm all for the bolted cracks in question. I say keep those routes the way they are. There are better adventures on the other side of the river if you are against bolts. There are plenty of routes with no bolts for bold trad climbers like yourself. Take Recurve and Jupiter Tower for instance. I also suggest that you quit reading Viktor's guidebook to increase your boldness. Also you shouldn't climb with a rope. Better yet, no shoes either. No chalk....Just solo everything nude. That should get you recognized.